'77 911 rear sway bar removal

[BCLi]

Hi all:
Trying to remove the rear sway bar off my '77 911 targa. Easy enough to take out the 12mm nuts, but the ball joints I cannot find a way to remove! I searched the forums and found Wayne's old article, but cannot figure out how to get enough leverage to 'pop off' the ball joint apart. Any hints to guide this noob on separating the ball joint apart? Thanks!
Bert

[bkreigsr]

I usually just stick a strong broomstick in there and pry it off.
Pre-lube and coat generously.

Reinstall using a shorter broomstick and a BFH, again, coat liberally with grease of your choice.

Bill K

[BCLi]

Originally Posted by bkreigsr

I usually just stick a strong broomstick in there and pry it off.
Pre-lube and coat generously.

Reinstall using a shorter broomstick and a BFH, again, coat liberally with grease of your choice.

Bill K

Thanks very much Bill - much appreciated!

[jpnovak]

I pry them off with an open adjustable wrench levered on a hammer handle.

[BCLi]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

I pry them off with an open adjustable wrench levered on a hammer handle.

Excellent! My simple brain can definitely follow that direction! Thank you sir!

[911pcars]

A well placed long crow bar reduces muscle effort and crunched knuckles.

[BCLi]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

A well placed long crow bar reduces muscle effort and crunched knuckles.

Thanks! With these suggestions I better be able to remove said bar - much appreciated.

[eastbay]

Remove the end links from the bar and then just twist them upwards like the arrow and they just pop right off.

[BCLi]

Originally Posted by eastbay

Remove the end links from the bar and then just twist them upwards like the arrow and they just pop right off.

So if I understand correctly, remove the cotter pins to free up the drop link, and just twist?

[bkreigsr]

Whatever you do - don't bend them or alter their alignment. If you do you, risk having them popping off every time you take a turn at speed.

Also - they are handed - right and left - both have specific angles of attack.

Be careful if you use a crowbar. Steel has a tendency to deform the surrounding sheet metal.

[911pcars]

One method: Place tip of your prying device under the metal lip of the ball cup, then find/create a fulcrum point nearby (ideally near the ball) to lever the drop link off.

[eastbay]

Originally Posted by BCLi

So if I understand correctly, remove the cotter pins to free up the drop link, and just twist?

Yes, when you twist up the top of link will contact the stud and pop itself off.
The plastic is relatively soft but warmth helps, you should be OK at room temp in SoCal, I was in NorCal.
When I R&R'd the ball cup bushings I placed them in hot water (microwave a coffee cup full of water and bring out to garage) for a few minutes and they went out and in easily by hand

[BCLi]

Originally Posted by bkreigsr

Whatever you do - don't bend them or alter their alignment. If you do you, risk having them popping off every time you take a turn at speed.

Also - they are handed - right and left - both have specific angles of attack.

Be careful if you use a crowbar. Steel has a tendency to deform the surrounding sheet metal.

Thanks - I will be mindful.

[BCLi]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

One method: Place tip of your prying device under the metal lip of the ball cup, then find/create a fulcrum point nearby (ideally near the ball) to lever the drop link off.

Great; thanks. That makes sense.

[BCLi]

Originally Posted by eastbay

Yes, when you twist up the top of link will contact the stud and pop itself off.
The plastic is relatively soft but warmth helps, you should be OK at room temp in SoCal, I was in NorCal.
When I R&R'd the ball cup bushings I placed them in hot water (microwave a coffee cup full of water and bring out to garage) for a few minutes and they went out and in easily by hand

I can definitely do that when I put these back in. Thanks for tip. I need to change my local BTW - just moved to Colorado - temps are...'less moderate.'

[BCLi]

Just wanted to thank everyone for their comments. By bending the drop link up after displacing the sway bar towards the back of the car, and then using a large adjustable wrench levered on a small hammer to push up the link to it's furthest point, with just a bit of force the ball joint popped off! So basically I combined a couple of suggestions to get this off in the most facile way this noob could! I hope this helps someone else in the future - it's the power of all of your experiences come together. Thanks again!!