Project Pepita —*I attempt to refurbishing early comfort seats…*

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Starting this thread to document the seat rebuild project for my 1971 911T Targa with comfort seats. The first post will be about my research and planning. After that I’ll be posting step-by-step photos as I remove my seats, disassemble them, and hopefully rebuild them to look almost like new. Feel free to chime in with questions, suggestions, or encouragement. I have no real experience with upholstery so only time will tell if I will succeed or fail at this.

Hoping to go from this....


...to something like this (not my car, just inspiration).



Why would I want to rebuild my seats?
When I first purchased my 911 I had planned to get rid of the comfort seats and drop in some cool race buckets. However as my wife and I took more long road trips I realized for the way we are using the car means the stock Comfort Seats are probably best for us over the long term. However at nearly 50 years old they were becoming hard, lumpy, and no longer living up to their name… just not comfortable after an hour or so. Seems like they are overdue for a rebuild.

What parts are needed?
Before starting the project I did a lot of research and contacted close to a dozen of the well known, and less well known, upholstery suppliers and upholstery specialist dealing in Porsches. I started by ordering the items I knew I would need for sure.
- New seat covers: I went with German Vinyl with Pepita fabric inserts (aka houndstooth).
- New seat foam for the seat backs and seat bottoms.
- Burlap seat back rebuild kit with rubber o-rings (some kits include the metal clips, some do not)
- Pirelli Rubber upholstery webbing for the seat back lumbar (some of the seat back rebuild kits offered include these straps, the one I ordered did not)
- Hog ring pliers and hog rings.

As I dismissible and tear down the seats I will discover other supplies and parts I will need including:
- Staple remover to pul out any old staples or tacks
- HD Stapler for staying the seat bottom upholstery to the cardboard tack strips. I used Bostich B310HDS and it worked better than I could have hoped.
- Staple gun for tacking upholstery to wood strip on seat back frame. My old Arrow was NOT up to the task and would not drive the staples all the way into the wood. I used the DeWalt DWHTTR350 along with HD staples and it sank every staple completely flush. Could not be happier with this tool.
- Extra burlap. The seat back kit does come with one square for the seat bottom cushion but my old seat covers had additional burlap and after watching several upholstery videos on YouTube and reading some upholstery blogs I decided to hedge my bets with additional burlap.
- Additionally I decided to attempt to handle the horizontal pleat in the seat base using the “factory method” that was recommended to me by a couple of Porsche upholstery shops. For this I purchased one straight tufting needle and a set of curved tufting needles along with tufting twine and some paracord (sash cord will work too). Before purchasing these supplies read my experiences with this technique and decide if it is right for you or if a more modern technique my be easier with better results.
- If your seats have adjustable headrests you may want an Outward Clinch Stapler to staple the headset covers to the foam. It is only 4 staples per headrest but all things considered it is probably worth it. I used the Arrow Brand.

Finally, as you disassemble the seats you will most likely encounter some hardware items like bolts, rubber latch protectors, etc. that may need refurbishing or replacing.

Time to do this. Wish me luck!

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Removing the seats

The comfort seats are mounted to the car via the seat sliders. Each slider has a series of hex-head bolts securing the seats to the floor.


- To access these bolts slide the seat back as far as it will go then remove the bolts in front.


- Next slide the seats all the way forward and remove the bolts in the rear


- Before you can remove the seat from the car you must detach the seat belt from the seat. There is a bolt on the outboard side of the seat base that secures one end of the seat belt to the seat. The easiest way to access this bolt is to put a knee on the seat base to compress the springs, use one hand to expose the bolt, and the other hand to loosen and remove the bolt and wave washer.


(IMPORTANT NOTE: if you can not access this bolt or are concerned with damaging the seat materials an alternate method would be to remove the outer seat track from the bottom of the seat while the seat is still in the car and then the bracket holding the end of the seat belt will be free and easy to access and remove)

- Remove the seat from the car being careful not to damage the seat, carpets, or drag the seat across the door sills.

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Seat Disassembly
With the seats removed from the car it is time to start disassembly.
- Remove the hex-head bolts that connect the seat tracks to the seat base. You can do this by sliding the bottom tracks so the access holes expose the bolts within or by simply sliding the slider far enough to access bolts at either end. There is a central bolt that can only be accessed by lining up the center most access hole with the bolt. With the bolts removed the seat tracks can be removed.



- Also note, some cars are fitted with a safety pin riveted to the seat tracks designed to stop the seat from traveling too far in the event of an accident. While it has not happened to me I have read several threads on this forum about the pin failing and locking the seat in place which would make it nearly impossible to remove the seat from the car. The forum threads recommend removing this safety pin. I plan to remove mine. Ultimately this decision is up to the individual owner.

- Next remove the hex-head bolt holding the seat back catch arm on either side of the seat base.


- If you intend to repaint your seat pan you can remove the seat adjustment lever by pushing out the 3 retaining pins or leave in place and mask the unpainted areas.


- Remove the Phillips head screws holding the seat hinges to the seat pan. At this point the seat pan may want to fall away from the seat back.


- Remove the Phillips head screws holding the seat hinges to the seat back.


- Remove the seat hinges. The torsion bar between them simply pulls out of each hinge.


- Remove the headrest from the seat back along with the two plastic trim pieces. If the headrest is stuck pull it out as far as possible for now. It can easily be removed later when you have access to the inside of the seat back.

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Disassembling the seat bottom

Remove the seat cover.
- The seat cover is help onto the seat bottom by a channel that runs around the seat pan squeezing tightly on the seat material. Use a plastic or metal pry tool to gently open up the channel away from the seat pan. Only a small amount of bending is needed to relieve pressure on the seat material. Start by untucking the material at the back of the seat cushion working in in section to lift it out of the channel.


- Work to open up the channel closest to where the seat hinge attaches to the seat pan. These are the easiest to access and also most likely to be pinched tightly.



- Remove the flaps from the two channels rear of the hinge mounts.


- Grab the seat material near the main channel with one hand while applying pressure on the seat pan with the other hand. You want to partially compress the seat springs. If you are lucky a gentle tug on the seat material will pop the remaining seat material from the channel. If not continue to apply pressure to the seat springs will working the channel open and working the material out of the channel. At some point, once the channel is opened up enough, the material will most likely pop-out of the channel on it’s own.



- Pull the material away from the seat pan so none of the flaps catch on the channel. At this point none of the material should be attached to the seat pan channel anymore.

- Flip over the seat pan to the seat cushion side it facing up. Look under the back seat material flap and remove any hog-rings connecting the side flaps of the seat material to the seat springs.


- If your seat material is attached to the top of the seat cushion or springs with hog rings or tufting twine remove as needed to free the seat material from the cushion. (NOTE: these attachments may missing if the seats have been recovered in the past and these were left out by less attentive upholstery shops).

- Set the seat cover aside to use as reference when installing the new cover.


Remove the seat cushion
- Remove any hog rings attaching the seat cushion and burlap to the springs to free the seat cushion.



- Keep the old seat bottom cushion if you intend to reuse it or set-aside if replacing with new foam.

Remove the seat springs
- The seat springs are held to the seat pan by 6 metal tabs. Bend the tabs away from the spring frame to free the springs.


- Beneath the springs is a layer of burlap designed to stop the springs from transmitting noise through the seat pan. This burlap should not be attached and should easily lift out.


- Now stare at your seat pan and seat springs and wonder how these will ever become a beautiful Porsche seat again!

[dennisO]

Very nicely documented.

Subscribed

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Disassembling the seat back
The seat material is attached at the bottom of the seat back. Mind had a combination of tacks and staples. Yours may be different. Either way, do yourself a favor and purchase a solid staple & tack remover from your local hardware store. It makes this job so much easier and faster.

- Remove the first row of staples or tacks. These attach the backside material to the bottom wooden strip.


- Remove the second row of staples or tacks. These attach the frontside material to the bottom wooden strip.


- A couple of small flaps of material from the seat sides may also be stapled or tacked onto the wooden strip. If so remove those as well.



- Remove the seat cover and set aside to use as reference when installing the new cover. (NOTE: if your headrest is still attached just pull the seat cover up off the seat back and around the headrest for now).

- The seat back cushion is most likely glued to the burlap beneath. Remove the seat cushion (carefully if you plan to reuse).


- Keep the old seat back cushion if you intend to reuse it or set-aside if replacing with new foam.

- There are a series of clips attaching the black rubber rings to burlap and to each other. Remove and save all of these clips. You will need to reuse them. New black rubber rings are included in the seat back replacement burlap kit.



- Remove the two rubber upholstery webbing straps. These provide lumbar support. You will need to reuse the clips. Some but not all seat back rebuild kits include these straps. They are also readily available from upholstery shops online. You can see in the photo one of my lunar straps was broken.

- Remove the hogs rings connecting the rubberized pad to the inside of the burlap. Removing this pad exposes the headrest tubes in the seat frame. If your headrest are stuck and still attached gently tap them with a hammer to free the headrest and remove.



- Remove the plastic headrest guides from the seat back frame.

- Remove the burlap cover from the seat back fame.

- Remove any remaining staples from the wood strip.


- If you plan to repaint your seat back frame you can remove the wooden strip by pulling the tacks attaching the frame to the wood. Note the exact location of the wooden strip so you can reattach it in the correct position later. Alternately you can mask off the wooden strip when repainting.

Disassembling the headrest
- Remove 4 screws


- Pull headrest from headrest frame (only disassemble the headrest frame further if you need to repaint, repair, or replace any components)

- Remove the 4 staples attaching the headrest material to the foam.

- Apply pressure to the headrest foal to compress it while rolling the headrest material off one-side. Once about 1/3 removed it should slide off easily.


- Keep the old headrest foam if you intend to reuse it or set-aside if replacing with new foam.

You have successfully disassembled your seat. Ponder if it was worth it or if you would rather be driving your car with aftermarket seats right now!

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Repainting the seat pan and seat back frame
While the bottom of my seat pan looked to be in above average shape with very few scratches in the black finish the inside of the seat pan and the seat back frame as surface corrosion across most of their surfaces. I can’t be sure but it did not appear any sort of finish or protection was applied to these metal parts when new.

- You can use something simple like a wire brush or wire wheel on a drill to remove any oxidation and a scotch bright pad or sand paper to prep the surface of the old paint.

- Prime and paint the seat pan and seat back frame. The seat pan bottom paint looks to be a satin or semi-gloss finish if you are going for a stock-ish appearance.
Concours types may want to opt for sandblasting and powder coat or paint.

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Rebuilding the seat backs
- Reattach the wooden tack strip to the base of the seat back frame if removed.

- Wrap the new seat back burlap around the seat back frame.

- Position the 9 new black rubber rings over the open area. Check your photo of the position before you removed them and replicate for best stretch and tension.

- Reuse the original metal clips to attach the rubber rings to the burlap. They should push through easily. The metal clips should grasp the string that runs around the burlap. Notice 6 of the metal clips are narrow on both sides. These are used to connect rubber ring to rubber ring vertically (up and down) these are NOT used horizontally or to connect to the burlap.


- Flip over the seat back frame and staple the burlap on the backside to the wooden tack strip.


- Flip over the seat back frame and remove the 3 lower metal clips from the burlap.

- Staple the burlap on the frontside to the wooden tack strip. The burlap gets folded under itself along the bottom edge with the staples penetrating both layers of the folded material.


- Reattach the 3 metal clips to the lower section of burlap.

- Using the original rubber webbing strips as a guide cut 2 new strips or Pirelli rubber webbing to length. If desired you can cut the width to match the originals but many people have posted enjoying the additional support of the 2 inch wide webbing.

- Measure the location of the holes for the metal clips in the original webbing and punch holes in the new webbing using and awl. The material is very elastic so the holes do not need to be very large.

- Insert the U shaped metal clips into the new webbing

- Feed the webbing material beneath the black rubber rings and over the burlap.

- Locate the holes on the sides of the seat back frame for the top webbing and press in the clips. It is best to hold the clips at and angle to get them started in the holes and wiggle a bit until the metal clips slides in. Trying to approach the holes straight on will not work. The clips will insert in an arc-like motion. Repeat the process for the bottom webbing strip.

- Insert the pad that protects the black rings from the headrest beneath the burlap and black rubber rings and attach it to the inside of the burlap using a hog ring on the upper corners. Do this last to ensure the burlap is stretched to it’s final position so the pad will be correctly located.




- Place your new foam on the seat back frame (or reuse original foam). Be sure your foam is centered side to side and the top of the seat frame is fully seated into the notch where the foam padding goes over the top of the seat back. There should be a strip of foam across the upper portion of the back of frame as well. Depending on the foam/padding you use you may choose to glue it to the burlap. If the foam fits well glue will not be necessary.

- Locate the metal tubes for the headrest beneath the foam on the top of the seat back. Use an awl or screw driver to press holes through the foam at the center of each tube. Use a utility knife to cut and X in the foam where you poked the holes. Slide the metal tubes through the holes in the foam using your fingers to guide the tubes through. This should be easy and require little pressure.

- Insert the black plastic headrest guides.


Your seat back is now rebuilt and ready for upholstery. Have a cold beverage and relax.

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Rebuilding the seat bottoms
- Cut a piece of burlap to match the dimensions of the one you removed from the bottom of the seat pan.

- Place burlap in the bottom of the seat pan. There are no fasteners as the springs will hold this in place.

- Locate the metal tie-down loops for the listing cord on either side of the seat pan and push these through the burlap so they are clearly visible and accessible.

- Insert the seat springs into the seat pan. And bend the 6 metal tabs over the burlap and over the bottom of the seat spring frame to secure the springs in place. Remember the burlap should be between the metal tabs and the frame as it stops any metal-on-metal rubbing or squeaking.


- Cut 2 pieces of burlap to match the burlap you removed from the top of the seat springs.

- Cover the top of the seat springs with the burlap. Use hog rings to secure the burlap to the flat front and rear portions of the seat spring frame. Pull the sides of the burlap down as far as possible and use hog rings to attach the burlap to the sides of the springs not to the frame. Depending on your chosen listing method you may want to leave a section of burlap unsecured near each of the listing cord tie-downs for better access.



LISTING OPTIONS
NOTE: Read the info on the upholstery listing below and make a decision before proceeding.
Have you seen the horizontal “pleat” on early 911 seats? That is created using a listing cord or wire. You need to decide if you want to use the factory listing cord tie-downs or use the more modern listing wire. This is the one area of my build I would consider doing differently if I were to do it again. Here are the two main options and of course either can be varied depending upon your skill and experience with upholstery… remember I had almost none so your results may be better than mine.

NO LISTING: The original listing cords rot and fail. Plus many seats have been recovered previously with no listing. If you want the fastest and easiest install, then skip the listing all together.

LISTING WIRE: When researching seat upholstery in general it seems most modern seats using listing wires that are attached to the springs using hog rings. Another listing wire is inserted into a cloth sleeve sewn or glued to the upholstery. The listing wire in the upholstery is attached to the one on the seat springs with hog rings. This is a fairly easy and straightforward method and there are tons of good videos and blogs demonstrating this technique. If I had it to do over again, I might just choose this approach as I believe it would be easier and yield better, or at least more consistent results for a beginner like myself.

LISTING CORD: When I went down the rabbit hole of early 911 seat research I stumbled onto one or two old posts about using the listing cord method. I also had at least two of the known Porsche upholstery shops tell me they use the cord method like the factory. Of course they didn’t spill their install secrets so I had to do some guesswork and figure it out for myself. It was fun to attempt to do things the original way but I am not sure I would recommend it without more practice and experience. Regardless, here is what I did. Hopefully you can learn from my experience and improve on it!

- This diagram shows the routing of the cord. It ties on top of the seat cushion compressing everything down tightly.


- Locate the are on your new or re-used seat cushion where the listing should go. Make a slit 1/4” - 1/2” deep to act as a channel for the listing cord.

- Use an awl, tufting needle, or other sharp object to poke a hole at both ends of the channel. The hole needs to be large enough for the listing cord to pass through it twice.

- Mark where the holes in the cushion will line up with the burlap covering the seat springs.

- Start with about 2 yards of listing cord. This will give you plenty of room to work with. At the end you will trim any unused cord.

- From the top side of the seat cushion push the cord through the holes you made. Keep an even amount of cord on both sides.

- Start on one side and push the cord through the burlap. From the side of the seat springs guide the cord down and through the metal tie-down loop in the seat pan and then back up and out the same hole. Repeat this step on the other side.

- Now is the time to use hog rings to connect the side burlap nearest the tie-downs to the seat springs.



- With the cords still very loose push the ends of the cord back up through the seat cushion.

- Place the seat cushion over the burlap and draw the cord through the cushion until there is no slack in the cord and the cushion is snug against the burlap on top of the seat springs.

- Check front, back, and both sides to ensure the cushion is properly positioned and seated.

- Pull the cord until you compress the seat springs approximate 1”. You may need to use your body weight to a helper to compress the springs while you do this. With the cord pulled tight, tie a knot in the cord and ensure the springs to do not uncompress. Cut off any extra cord and ensure the knot is tucked neatly into the channel you cut into the cushion.




REMEMBER: I did this using very limited information inferred from others. There may be, and probably are, much better ways to do this.

The seat bottom is rebuilt and ready for upholstery. Get some rest and start fresh in the morning.

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Installing the seat back upholstery
- Before installation slits need to be cut into the sides of the seat cover. The slits sit approx 1” from the seam where the side meets the back. The slits are approximately 5” long. The slits may be longer on the seat covers you removed but this is all you actually need and will help avoid the slit pulling out from beneath the seat hinges over time.


- Place some plastic sheet or a plastic bag over the seat backs. This will make installing the seat covers much easier. Cutting 2” long perforations into the plastic will make it easier to remove later if you choose to do so.

- Heat the upholstery to at least 100ş F. I live in Arizona and was able to set my upholstery in the sun for a few minutes and see surface temps of approx. 140ş F making the material pliable and easy to manipulate. You may need to use a hair dryer or heat gun just be careful and do not burn your new upholstery.

- Roll the seat cover so the lower half of the cover is up around the top half (imagine rolling your socks before putting them on or cuffing the legs of jeans)

- Slide the top half of the seat cover over the seat back. Be sure the cover is centered and pull down snugly until the front and rear seams along the top are pressing into the seat back cushion. You really want to pull down on the seat cover and see some stretch in the material. It is much easier to get this tight now, rather than trying to make adjustments later.

- Roll the seat cover down over the seat back being very careful when handling the material near the slit you made. You do not want the material to tear or any seams to rip. Take your time and add extra heat if needed.



- Pull the material as needed to ensure all seams line-up front to back and side to side. Take extra care to ensure the two back seams are positioned correctly where the seat back frame tapers in about 3/4 of the way down. You may need to pull very firmly to get these into the correct position.


- If you wish to remove the plastic reach into the seat cover and do so now.

- If you have the luxury of time let everything set overnight to the material can conform to the seat back frame and cushion. Then make any adjustments needed.

- Before you start stapling remember you will staple the material facing the front first. You may need a helper for this or a set of pulling pliers (I prefer artist canvas pulling pliers with foam gripping jaws over metal jaw upholstery pulling pliers).

- Pull the front material toward the wooden tack strip tightly. You do not want any gaps or wrinkles. You should have more material than you need.


- Starting at the center staple the center section of pleats. Work out from the center stapling one section of pleats at a time. Do not staple the side bolsters yet.


- Pull any extra side material tight and staple it to the wooden tack strip. Be sure to squeeze the area around the slit on the sides as close as possible and staple it down to the wooden tack strip and also on the outer edge of the tack strip.


- Now fold the side bolsters over the side material you just staples down. Pull the bolsters down tightly and staple to the wooden tack strip.


- Check your work. Be sure the staples are secured tightly to the tack strip. Ensure the pleats are centered and the bolsters end at the outer edges. Check and double check. Now is the time to pull any staples and make any adjustments needed.

- Use sharp shears or a utility knife to remove any extra material beyond the staples. No material should extend past the wooden tack strip. No material should be folded or tucked into the seat back area.

- Before attaching the seat back material use heat and make sure it is pliable and easy to stretch. NOTE: the factory used small flat topped black upholstery brads. You may choose to use a nail gun or nail these in by hand. Or use a staple gun if you are not trying to replicate the factory method.

- Starting in the center pull the seat back material tight, very tight. Fold the material over and place it so it covers the seat front material before stapling. Work out from the center pulling tight as you go avoiding any wrinkles or bunching.


- When you get to the two ends you will need to use brads or small nails to tack the outermost edges.


Seat back upholstery complete!

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Preparing the seat bottom upholstery
Depending upon where you purchased your seat upholstery you may have to do some additional work before the upholstery can be installed.

Measure twice, cut once
Take measurements around the “skirt” of the seat bottom upholstery and compare it with the upholstery you removed. Odds are the new seat bottom upholstery will measure longer than the original and have extra material, more than you will need. This gives you wiggle room which is good. In my instance the new upholstery was about 2” longer on average than what I removed. However I also replaced my seat cushion foam which is thicker than the shrunken and crushed old seat cushion. I also slipped the new upholstery onto the seat bottom and checked to see where there was a lot of extra material, and where there was less extra material. Don’t forget the material must wrap over the tack strip so you may need more material than you think. Take your time and work out how much material you need to remove before making any cuts. When you are ready use chalk to mark where you want to make your cut. Use sharp shears to cut the material.





Attach the cardboard tack strip
- Use the seat cover you removed or your seat pan as a guide to cut the lengths of tack strips. You will need 4 pieces total. The back, the rear sides, and the main piece with covers the front and most of both sides. You can use tin snips or a utility knife to cut the tack strips as needed.

- Use a heavy duty stapler to attach the tack strip. The staples should easily penetrate the seat material and tack strip.


- Place staples approx 3” apart for the large potion of material that makes up the front and sides of the seat. At the beginning and ending of the tack strip use two staples one above the other as this is a high stress area.


- The tack strips used for the two rear sides are not as tall as the rest. They are approximately half as tall. You will need to cut them before stapling.

- The tack strip for the rear portion is angled on each end. Cut as needed before stapling. Any material longer than the tack strip one both ends should be folded under. This created a nice finished look when you install the material to the seat pan. The material is stapled approximately every inch for this section.



Attach listing cord or wire
It seems most 911 seat upholstery is supplied with no provision for the listing even though the visible pleat in the seat is one of the hallmarks of the 911 comfort seat. The easiest method would be to use a pre-made listing sleeve and attach it to the underside of the seat upholstery by sewing it on or using glue. Then slip the wire into the sleeve and you are done. Of course being a glutton for punishment I tried to replicate the “old ways” as I was able to glean it from others. I honestly suggest the listing wire route but here is what I did.

- Use a curved tufting needle to pull tufting twine (aka upholstery button thread) through the area where the seat pleats are sewn. Do NOT puncture through the tops of the seat material or leave any “evidence” that might be visible when looking at the seating surface. Make a loop at each pleat so the thread can not be pulled from side to side. Be sure not to gather or bunch the pleats. You are not compressing the pleats just connecting each pleat together. When using a tufting needle you are pulling 2 strands through at the same time. I went down and back for a total of 4 threads which should be plenty strong. Cut and tie-off the ends.

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Installing the bottom seat upholstery
- Loosely place the seat bottom cover over the front and sides of the foam and pull it toward the back of the seat.

- Use hog rings to connect the listing on the underside of the seat material to the listing cords tucked into the seat cushion. Use approx 2 hog rings per pleat. The two ends will be harder to reach as they are pulled deeper into the cushion bit don’t forget them as they make a visible difference.



- Flip the seat bottom over

- Use one hand to push down on the seat pan to compress the foam and springs and the other hand to pull the seat cover up all around the seat pan.

- Starting at the front center, fold over the seat material and tuck the tack strip into the channel in the seat pan. You may need a plastic trip remover tool to help guide the tack strip in and avoid any bunching. Be sure the tack strip is pushed deep into the channel. If you can see the backside of any staples pressing through the material then the tack strip is not fully seated into the channel.



- See where the upholstery meets the mounting pin for the seat hinge on either side of the seat pan and cut a slit then cut away any material needed to allow the material to sit flat agains the seat pan and not bunch up around the mounting pin.

- Install the two rear-side sections into the seat panel channel

- Fold any extra side material and piping around to the back and attach to the seat springs using hog rings. Be sure the rear side material is pulled tightly as the seat hinges will catch any folds or bunches in the material here and cause damage.

- Install the rear section into the channel making sure none of the seat springs or seat padding is visible.

- Use a plastic hammer to press the metal channel down snugly into the installed material (or use something to act as a cushion between the hammer and the channel). The areas near the seat mounting pin are high stress areas so be sure these are very tight. Try to avoid wavers in the seat channel as much as possible.


- Completed seat bottom

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Rebuilding Headrest
- Place new headrest covers over foam. If using existing foam you may need to glue 1/8” - 1/4” foam around the old foam to get a good fit. Otherwise the headrest covers may be loose.



- Use an outward cinch stapler to attach the cover. They do not hold very tightly and are more for securing the overall position of the cover it seems.


- Trim the cover as needed. I chose to let my headrest material cover the screw holes allowing the screws to provide an additional point of attachment.

- Replace the headrest base and insert the 4 Phillips head screws.


- Completed headrest

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Seat Hardware clean-up

Seat hinges
- Remove black plastic cover from back of seat hinges.
- Clean and lube all mechanisms as needed
- Replace plastic cover
- Polish chrome and clean up all other seat hinge details as needed.

Seat tracks
My seat tracks have the dreaded “safety pin”. These are held on by a rivet and prone to failure leaving more than one 911 owner unable to slide the seat forward or backwards and worse yet, unable to access the bolts to remove the seats. Only you can decide if you want to remove your safety pins or not. They are easily removed by drilling out the rivets.



- Disassemble upper and lower sliders.
- Spray with WD-40 and use a brass brush to remove old grease and grime.
- Clean the nylon inserts and do not lose them.
- Lubricate seat tracks
- Reassemble seat tracks and ensure they operate smoothly.

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Seat Reassembly

Connecting the seat back to the seat bottom
- Locate the holes on the sides of the seat back frame. Mark with chalk and use an awl to press holes through the material and a utility knife to cut away enough material for the screws to be inserted without any bunching of the material.


- Attach the seat hinges to the seat back but do not tighten them down yet. Don’t forget to install the bar that connects to the two hinges as it cannot be installed later.


- Place the seat back assembly over the seat bottom as if the seat was folded forward and position the lower seat hinge over the mounting pins in the seat pan. You may need to press or tap the lower hinge to get it to fully seat on the pin. NOTE: You may want to drape cloths, plastic, or some other protection over the seat bottom to ensure the lower hinge does not scratch or tear the material.


- Attach the lower hinge screws and tighten.

- Tighten the hinge screws in the seat back.

- Check the movement of the hinge. New material and new padding might make it a bit stiff but everything should move fully frontward and rearward. Be sure the hinges do not pinch, scratch, or tear the seat bottom sides.

Reattaching the headrest
- Locate the headrest tubes underneath the material in the top of the seat back frame. Mark with chalk and use an awl to press holes through the material and a utility knife to cut away enough material for the plastic headrest trim pieces to be inserted without bunching the material.


- Insert the plastic trim pieces


- You may choose to lightly lubricate the headrest poles before inserting them.

- Insert the headrest poles. Ensure the headrest stops and each detent and moves freely.

Reattaching seat rails
- Position the seat with the back down and seat pan facing you.

- Place the seat belt mounting brackets in their approximate positions. These mount between the seat pan and the seat rails.


- Attach the seat hinge latch bracket with rubber bumpers to the side of the seat pan. It is important to understand this bracket helps to draw the seat cover tight against the seat pan and away from the seat hinge.


- Position the seat slider and attach the central bolt seating it all the way down but not tight.

- Attach the top to bolts tightly.

- Attach the bottom for bolts loosely and adjust the two brackets as needed to ensure no rubbing against the seat hinge. Then tighten.


- Tighten the central bolt.

- Check to ensure the seat rails move freely.


Completely rebuilt seat


Reinstall seats in the car
- Reinstall seatbelts to seats.
- Enjoy your rebuilt seats!

Before and after example with rebuilt passenger seat and word original driver's seat.

[Hi_Fi_Guy]

Final thoughts
This was a fun and challenging project. The effort was definitely worth it. I am lucky my passenger seat was in mostly original condition. This allowed me document everything as I went along which made reassembly much easier. While it looked fine on the outside, my driver’s seat was in much worse condition overall, with what appeared to be some dodgy repairs made over the years. It is taking much more time and effort to restore the seat frame and hardware to a good standard. If you decide to take on this project be prepared for surprises once you open up the seats. The good news is, many parts are still available for these seats plus support from vendors who can provide help or even do the job for you.

I hope this thread helps others who decide to rebuild their original comfort seats. They may not be the lightest, or the sportiest, but they are certainly well made!

[Peterfrans]

Thanks for this very elaborate write-up! Nice one for my todo list :-)

[Discseven]

Wonderful effort invested in photo-doc'ing this project Brian. Seats look great! Plastic bag trick is excellent!

[brshap]

Excellent write up. Even though I will likely never be recovering these specific seats myself, I really enjoyed reading along. Seats look great!

[jjeffries]

Ha .... awesome! My next quest. Great job and thanks for posting.

John