Clutch arm/Clevis link up - Help Please!

[Tommy Z]

I'm struggling to reconnect the clutch arm of my pedal cluster to the clevis of the clutch cable following an arduous pedal cluster rebuild this weekend. After re-installing the cluster I cannot get the clutch arm and the clevis to line up. I don't know what I did wrong. Even with the cluster loose and the brake pedal rod and the cluster brace disconnected and all of the bolts and nuts anchoring the cluster to the body, it still doesn't reach. I also afraid that the throttle cable rod and the clutch cable may have looped over each other and I am imagining them wrapped around each other in the tunnel but I can possibly see down there. In fact I can barely get eyes on the base of the clevis. I'm at a loss and don't know what to do and I've reached the limit of my mechanical abilities here. Any suggestions?

I am considering detaching the cable at the transmission and hopefully pulling it forward to attach the clevis but won't that just create an issue at the cable/transmission attachment? I would imagine that will just screw up the shifting? Ugh.

Any ideas, suggestions answers would be very much appreciated.

[kach22i]

You can crawl under the car and play with the clutch linkage there.

Start at the helper spring hooked to the transmission and follow the path upward.

Take the tunnel cover plate off in front of the rear seats inside the car and grab the rod to check for free range of motion.

Mirrors, flashlights and cell phone camera all played an important role for me in verifying conditions.

Nothing you have done so far has been easy, and neither will this be, just hang in there and you will get it done.

[proporsche]

............................

[proporsche]

you have to start over little.You cannot hook the cable to the arm until it is connected to the cross shaft on after you star assembling it in the back..you way to many threads going through the clevis ..lose about 1cm.the way you have it the clutch cable thread will hit the cross haft when you deprass the pedal..
do not make tight the 10mm wrench security nut behind the clevis until it is on the cross shaft connected with the pin...then report

[Tommy Z]

Originally Posted by proporsche

you have to start over little.You cannot hook the cable to the arm until it is connected to the cross shaft on after you star assembling it in the back..you way to many threads going through the clevis ..lose about 1cm.the way you have it the clutch cable thread will hit the cross haft when you deprass the pedal..
do not make tight the 10mm wrench security nut behind the clevis until it is on the cross shaft connected with the pin...then report

ProPorsche, I'm not sure I understand what you mean by cross shaft after I start assembling. I understand you are saying there are too many threads going through the clevis, but I did not replace the clevis at all. That is exactly as it was when I removed the cluster. Honestly I tried to turn the clevis to get a little more length but it is so far back in the tunnel that I can barely see the nut at the base of clevis while upside down with pedals smacking me in the face. I don't think I can get a wrench on that clevis nut. What is the down side to disconnecting it from the release arm of the transmission to get a little length? I am nervous about throwing off the shifting and getting in over my head but I guess I'm already there.

[Tommy Z]

Originally Posted by kach22i

You can crawl under the car and play with the clutch linkage there.

Start at the helper spring hooked to the transmission and follow the path upward.

Take the tunnel cover plate off in front of the rear seats inside the car and grab the rod to check for free range of motion.

Mirrors, flashlights and cell phone camera all played an important role for me in verifying conditions.

Nothing you have done so far has been easy, and neither will this be, just hang in there and you will get it done.

Thanks Kach, I'll try that. Gonna take a break for a little while and maybe come back to it later. If I disconnect it from the release arm i'll be able to see if anything is bound up in the tunnel. I guess if I get some slack by releasing it then I can follow directions to adjust the clutch after I get it reattached.
Thanks so much for your guidance.

[proporsche]

1.remove the cable from the clutch arm
2.this will gave you a free room to pull the cable towards the pedal cluster.The cross shaft is the one you want to hook the cable to-that is the name of the part
3.once you have the cable disconnected from the clutch arm(you also have to remove the little finger arm ) you can loosen the nut behind the clevis.Like i said you have way to many threads showing through.

I hope you get it now let me know..you cannot connect the clevis to the cross shaft if it is it connected to the clutch arm....................

Ivan

[proporsche]

you are doing nothing to the shifting you are working on your clutch cable,relax;-)

[john walker's workshop]

Always undo it at the trans end first.

[Tommy Z]

Originally Posted by proporsche

1.remove the cable from the clutch arm
2.this will gave you a free room to pull the cable towards the pedal cluster.The cross shaft is the one you want to hook the cable to-that is the name of the part
3.once you have the cable disconnected from the clutch arm(you also have to remove the little finger arm ) you can loosen the nut behind the clevis.Like i said you have way to many threads showing through.

I hope you get it now let me know..you cannot connect the clevis to the cross shaft if it is it connected to the clutch arm....................

Ivan

Thank you Ivan, I understand now. I guess I assumed if I was able to remove the clevis from the pedal arm then it should just hook right back up without trouble. I don't know why so many threads are showing as I haven't touched it. That's exactly the way it was when I disconnected it from the pedal arm.

[Tommy Z]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Always undo it at the trans end first.

Thanks John, I'm not at the point in my mechanical ability where I am confident in tackling a repair without detailed instructions and there was no mention of undoing it at the transmission end first in the FCP Euro blog. It makes total sense though.

I really do appreciate everyone's input and patience as I gain experience.

[Walt Fricke]

Tommy - if the bushings in the pedal cluster, and especially the one in the arm the clevis attaches to, were worn, someone may well have shortened the cable by threading the clevis farther to the rear (hence more of the threaded rod showing inside the two sides of the clevis). That could take up the slack which developed. Your rebuild, I suspect, got rid of that slack, so to speak. Which is why your cable, unadjusted, is in essence too short.

On a point of what might be called etiquette, it is very helpful if anyone who asks a question says what 911 model is involved. You mention things which show you have power brakes, so a 78-86 (915), and the cable attachment up front has always been the same, so none of the experienced guys who answered had a problem giving good advice. But still - list your model. On further looking, I see you listed your '79 in a different, earlier post. But you can't expect everyone to have read that first, and necessarily remembered.

Good pictures all around. You will pick this stuff up - most of what your fellow posters on Pelican do isn't rocket science (though some of these guys are professional mechanics, engine builders, car repairers, etc., and really are rocket scientists compared to most of us).

[proporsche]

Walt ..he has 1979 911SC it is in his garage link

Ivan

[kach22i]

Putting the car in ones signature is easy.