Pedal cluster re-build

[Tommy Z]

Well, tomorrow is pedal cluster rebuild day for me and my 79' SC. I hope I'm ready and that I have everything I need. I am armed with some good articles and FCP Euro's excellent pictorial. Does anybody have a good schematic cut sheet for the pedal cluster for my year? Thanks in advance!

[David Inc.]

I did mine recently and relied on the parts catalogs available direct from Porsche. Just be mindful as you disassemble things and take lots of photos.

And yes that FCP euro instruction is excellent!

Also! Definitely buy a tap for the clutch arm spring pin, I can't imagine doing the job without it, but having it on hand made it a breeze to remove and reinstall.

[kavadarci]

I will be doing this soon.
Does anyone have the FCP euro instructions to share?

Thank you.

[David Inc.]

You can google FCP Euro Pedal Cluster Rebuild and you'll find it. Seems in bad taste to link direct when Pelican has their own instructions as well. (https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mult_pedal_cluster/Mult_pedal_cluster.htm)

[AlKidd]

Originally Posted by Tommy Z

Well, tomorrow is pedal cluster rebuild day for me and my 79' SC. I hope I'm ready and that I have everything I need. I am armed with some good articles and FCP Euro's excellent pictorial. Does anybody have a good schematic cut sheet for the pedal cluster for my year? Thanks in advance!

The hardest task is getting the whole assembly out of the car. There is one bolt under the brake pedal that will have you making up new words if you do not disconnect the brake to master cylinder rod first. I hope your flexible. The rebuild of the assembly is pretty obvious once you have it in hand. As youve probably read and many have commented on the roll pin is a challenge. I read alot about using coins to expand the clutch return spring but found it wasnt needed if you removed it from the assembly once it was out of the car. The pedal moved back far enough to just take it off. You probably dont need the clutch return spring unless yours is broken but since you have it.

[David Inc.]

The clutch return spring is necessary to take up the slack in the assembly when the clutch is disengaged. In the resting position it actually pulls the pedal up towards your foot. Well I guess it's not "necessary" but it feels wrong having that little bit of play at the top of the travel.

[kach22i]

This cut-a-way section diagram from a partial 1977 service manual helped me understand how all the bits are interconnected.

Brake Booster lever ball and socket worn out

I might be able to find the PDF and email it to if needed.

However, that FCP Euro article is a life saver, and so are the many threads in Pelican Parts.

Originally Posted by David Inc.

The clutch return spring is necessary to take up the slack in the assembly when the clutch is disengaged. In the resting position it actually pulls the pedal up towards your foot. Well I guess it's not "necessary" but it feels wrong having that little bit of play at the top of the travel.

In the process I discovered that the helper spring back under the transmission was missing, no wonder my clutch was so stiff for years.

Good idea to re-spring back at the engine/transmission area including under the engine and throttle springs in engine bay - while you are in there.

[Tommy Z]

It's the damn clutch cable clevis pin that's killin me right now. I'm planning on replacing the clutch arm anyway. Is there any reason not to just cut the clutch arm so I can remove the cluster and work this pin a little easier. I can't see how anyone can get this thing disconnected? I can hardly see it much less get any tools on it to pop the pin out.

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by Tommy Z

It's the damn clutch cable clevis pin that's killin me right now. I'm planning on replacing the clutch arm anyway. Is there any reason not to just cut the clutch arm so I can remove the cluster and work this pin a little easier. I can't see how anyone can get this thing disconnected? I can hardly see it much less get any tools on it to pop the pin out.

Chances are the hole in the rod that the pin goes though is as worn out and oblong as anything you have seen posted and the whole clutch arm needs replacing, not just the tiny bushing.

Do what you have to, I think you can replace every part on that assembly with new if you have to.

They suggest not reusing that clevis pin anyway, and the rod is usually shot.

[Tommy Z]

I was already planning on replacing the clutch arm so I'm going to try and cut it off. Hopefully I can free the clevis after that. I'm getting no where until I get this clevis pin disconnected.

[Tommy Z]

OK, Clutch arm is cut and the two front nuts are removed but this cluster won't budge. Is there a third fastening point I'm missing?

[Tommy Z]

Does this one get removed too? No mention of it in FCP Euro but the cluster seems to be flexing at that point when I try to pry it up. The bolt itself seems to be welded to the cluster but I can find any nut underneath that needs to be disconnected. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Tommy Z]

Never mind. I missed a step and found them under the belly pan. Duh!

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by Tommy Z

The bolt itself seems to be welded to the cluster but I can find any nut underneath that needs to be disconnected. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Be Careful!!!

This is where I screwed up.

Jack up the car, remove the pan that covers the fuel pump.

Put a scissor jack or two under the suspension points so the holes remain lined up (or put the bolts part way back in?).

Under the car two nuts on two bolts will be sticking out, this is where I cranked on mine with a 5-foot pipe on the end of my socket wrench and snapped it off - DO NOT DO THIS. Use heat, and penetrating liquids, be patient.



Image above taken from the Fcp Euro article you already have.

I ended up drilling out the snapped off bolt and having my neighbor weld in a new one for me. He did way more than an ugly little tack weld, it's not going anywhere now.

[Tommy Z]

Thanks Kachi. Fortunately they spun right off for me. I misinterpreted his instructions and thought that was only for early cars.

Well now I can see why I had such a hard time getting the clevis pin out. Holy Cow! I guess my timing was right on. Lots of little pieces of broken plastic bushings under there too.

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by Tommy Z

......... Holy Cow! I guess my timing was right on.

Yep, that's what 90% of them look like, including mine.

If you put that assembly in a vice to work on, keep in mind that the main open box metal housing is pretty soft metal and is easily deformed.

Good news is that it can easily be bent right back.

I put my bushings and pin in the freezer overnight so they would slide together a little easier.

Lots of time to do that because of the paint prep and lubing process.

[OldSpool87]

This may be the quintessential off-season project. Looking forward to tackling myself at some point. Good on Tommy for jumping right into working on his car like this.

[jac1976]

Originally Posted by kach22i

Be Careful!!!

This is where I screwed up.

Jack up the car, remove the pan that covers the fuel pump.

Put a scissor jack or two under the suspension points so the holes remain lined up (or put the bolts part way back in?).

Under the car two nuts on two bolts will be sticking out, this is where I cranked on mine with a 5-foot pipe on the end of my socket wrench and snapped it off - DO NOT DO THIS. Use heat, and penetrating liquids, be patient.



Image above taken from the Fcp Euro article you already have.

I ended up drilling out the snapped off bolt and having my neighbor weld in a new one for me. He did way more than an ugly little tack weld, it's not going anywhere now.

My cluster is recently rebuilt, but wanted to bump with a thanks for the great experiential advice and photos. It’s been stated many times, but the assistance afforded by so many in these forums cannot be overstated.

[David Inc.]

I'll throw in a recommendation for blasting and powder coating all of the painted parts. All sorts of crap can get down there so there was a fair bit of scratches and rust blooming on my parts.

[AlKidd]

Originally Posted by David Inc.

The clutch return spring is necessary to take up the slack in the assembly when the clutch is disengaged. In the resting position it actually pulls the pedal up towards your foot. Well I guess it's not "necessary" but it feels wrong having that little bit of play at the top of the travel.

How can it pull the pedal up when it pulls the pedal down? The spring points are to the rear and its not a compression spring.