911 front suspension pan rust

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by Collette

Great!

Thanks for sharing all this info Jonny. There’s a few drawings here that I haven’t seen and will definitely help.

I have a few more, too, and a few that might be higher resolution than I'm able to post here. By all means PM me your email address and I'll email them to you.

[Collette]

Originally Posted by David Inc.

Can I ask if there were any noises while driving prior to opening the pan up for inspection?

I've had a clicking noise from my front end that I have had no luck identifying even with all new stuff and I worry that it's the sheet metal giving way...

My driver’s side control mount was bolted on tight but the mount had separated from the pan from rust. I don’t have what was left of it but here’s some of the rest. I didn’t notice any noise but I did notice steering resistance when breaking which hopefully didn’t twist things up too much.

[Collette]

Anyone have any ideas on getting the steering rack mount where it needs to be vertically? I can measure diagonals but since the car isn’t level I need reference points to make sure the steering rack is level with the car.

Any jig ideas?

Thanks

[Carl S.]

The car is on stands. Would it be possible to level it with shims. Once level you could use a laser level to project the zero plane line from the back to the front and go from there?

[draw]

See if this helps...

The center of the brake line bracket is 44mm above the datum line of the car. The steering mount is 113mm below the datum line. Adding the two, the height difference between the bracket and the steering mount is 157mm.

[Carl S.]

Exactly. Nice!

[Collette]

Originally Posted by draw

See if this helps...

The center of the brake line bracket is 44mm above the datum line of the car. The steering mount is 113mm below the datum line. Adding the two, the height difference between the bracket and the steering mount is 157mm.

Perfect!

Thanks

[draw]

Since it looks like you have 3 good bearing brackets (out of 4), this approach could be easier/better or a good crosscheck...

Place a straight edge across the two bearing brackets (red line in pic) and use one of these angle locators and zero it out. Then, place the straight edge and angle locator across the steering brackets (green line in pic) and raise/lower the driver side bracket until the angle locator reads zero. This will ensure that the angle is the same between the front and rear brackets.

[Collette]

Can I rely on this coating to help prevent future rust?
I will fill the upper hole and seams with epoxy seam sealer once this is welded in place but I’m worried about the mating faces that aren’t rosette welded.

Thanks.

[Carl S.]

I tried some of that. It was not clean to weld through. lots of spattering, I could not get a good bead going. I had to clean the welding area and respray.

[Collette]

Has anyone had this problem with the Stoddard pan jig 65’-89’?

The jig isn’t able to seat on the drivers side pedal area bearing mount due to interference from the underbelly of my 77’ 911.

I bought this so I’d have accurate reference points but with it being so simple and not fitting I wanted to hear others opinions before I grind clearance so the $400 jig fits.





Thanks

[draw]

Here’s a picture of the jig installed on my ‘71. No clearance issues in my case...

[Collette]

Can I trust the stoddard frame jig or the restoration design replacement pan?

When the lower left fender (oem Porsche replacement) is in place front to back, It doesn’t line up with the pan that is bolted in the jig. Seems like the pan needs to move a good .25” back.



When I line up the pan and lower fender then it’s too far forward.





It also seems like the pan isn’t wide enough side to side.

Thanks.

[draw]

You can double check the frame jig if that helps...
Distance from A to B on pic is 181.6mm
Distance from B to C should be 497.3mm



Another check dimension is from B to the trans mount point (drivers side on the jig to drivers side trans mount) should be 1883mm (I need to double check this). This will ensure proper fore/aft positioning of the jig.

[Thomas Owen]

Collette,
I had a similar situation on my '72 with a Restoration Design pan and Dansk inner fenders. With the pan in a Porsche jig, I had some gaps like you show in the top photo - and that is what I would suggest. Form the pan outer lip to fit the piece that is cut to match your inner fender.
I assume photo #3 is the result of moving the piece forward as in photo #2?

good luck -

[Collette]

Originally Posted by draw

You can double check the frame jig if that helps...
Distance from A to B on pic is 181.6mm
Distance from B to C should be 497.3mm



Another check dimension is from B to the trans mount point (drivers side on the jig to drivers side trans mount) should be 1883mm (I need to double check this). This will ensure proper fore/aft positioning of the jig.

That makes sense. I will double check the jig but also I think I read on RD website that non of their parts are perfect and require forming/trimming. Great products for the price regardless.

Thanks

[Collette]

Originally Posted by Thomas Owen

Collette,
I had a similar situation on my '72 with a Restoration Design pan and Dansk inner fenders. With the pan in a Porsche jig, I had some gaps like you show in the top photo - and that is what I would suggest. Form the pan outer lip to fit the piece that is cut to match your inner fender.
I assume photo #3 is the result of moving the piece forward as in photo #2?

good luck -

Yes. 1 is aligned with the fender and 2-3 is aligned with the pan.

Thanks.

[Collette]

[Collette]

[frankc]

Looking great - I'm following as I will be doing this job soon myself.

I didn't see them in the photos above, but I'm hoping that you welded in the reinforcement mounts before installing the gas tank support panel.

Just bought a project 1972 911T

https://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP201C