3.2 rebuild?

87911jon · 87911jon's Garage

My '87 has just turned 185k on the original engine. Still running great, no smoke but does use a quart of oil every other tank full. I drive the 911 almost everyday and do a couple DEds a year. I have enough extra cash to rebuild the upper end, but can't justify the cost of a full rebuild right now. So I'm thinking I could just have the top end rebuilt (valves and rings) and leave the bottom alone. What have other high mileage 911 owners/mechanics found in their engines once they split the lower case for a full rebuild?

jabb · 05-01-2003, 05:57 AM

Your motor does not sound like it is in that bad a shape.
Have you done a compression check, I would say just leave it alone, and drive it. Save your money and when you have enough maybe transplant a 3.6 motor into your car.

87911jon · 87911jon's Garage

Yeah, I'm thinking that too. But I know me, I'm already looking to buy a new cheap toy if I don't have engine work done, found a low mileage, one owner TR-6 for $2500 or maybe another 914? Still curious as to what other owners have found in their lower end rebuilds.

yelcab1 · 05-01-2003, 07:07 AM

My top end rebuild costs me:

$350 for the valves job
$180 for the gasket set
$125 for the ring set
$300 for the engine stand
$100 for the cam tools
$150 for some of the Porsche head studs
$150 for 6 new rocker arms
Misellaneous oil, dressing, etc ... $200

Labor of love was free. Total about $1500.

Superman · 05-01-2003, 07:12 AM

I installed all new valves during my overhaul ($400-500) plus installation by JW ($???). New rings ($100). Gaskets. Main and rod bearings ($150). I came in under $2000.

I would suggest you go ahead and split the case. Just pop new bearings in and new (upgraded) rod bolts.

Rot 911 · 05-01-2003, 07:14 AM

Quart every other fill up? In my '86 that would work out to a quart about every 800 miles or so. If that is true in your case, I would leave it alone for now. Factory spec is one quart every 1000 miles. And if you can get a decent, no serious rust TR-6 for $2500 I would be all over it!

jhugh · 05-01-2003, 07:54 AM

I rebuilt my 3.2 at 104K miles, and did the bottom end just because I was doing the top end anyway. It didn't cost me much, because I did it myself... only the valve gear, cam regrinds, and machining cost me any *real* money, on the order of maybe $2500 total. I was able to borrow most of the special tools needed. Now, the stuff I did on top of the rebuild (exhaust, piggyback computer), brought my total cost up to possibly $4K - I never had the heart to add up the numbers. But all told, because I did it myself, I'm sure it cost a third of what someone else would've charged me.

It's definitely worth it to do the bottom as long you've got the topend apart, I would think especially at such high mileage as you have. Then again, you might be into more money with just the topend with that kind of mileage - you may need new pistons and cylinders. That's probably an extra $1500+.

When I took the bottom end apart, I found next to no wear on the bearings. She was CLEAN, man. Amazing. Magnafluxing showed the crank was perfect. In hindsight, my rebuilding the bottom was probably "unnecessary" but it's given me some piece of mind, it wasn't much more money, and I learned a lot. Plus, there's no feeling quite like driving around in a car you built yourself!

Cheers,

Superman · 05-01-2003, 08:03 AM

Hugh is giving perfect advice. I would only add that my P&Cs, at 182k miles, were nearly new in terms of wear. They could have been three times as worn as they were, and still re-ringable. But be sure to measure everything. Everything. Ring lands. Wrist pins and bushings. Rocker bushings, main and rod journals, etc. Very possibly, all you will need is a professional head job (we all need those once in a while...maybe not 'professional' but at least competent, let's say) which very possibly may include new valves, a set of rod and main bearings, a set of rings and a fistful of gaskets and case sealer.