Alternative for factory Heater Tube in rocker?

[Rodney Nelson]

Hey Guys,

Tearing into my rocker panel and I'm going to have to replace my heater tubes. Seems like there could be an alternative here. I would think there would be tons of different types of heating tubes/pipe that would work. Not sure if it really needs so much insulation?

Since the heater tube attaches to the metal tubes that come up through the foot well area and also in the rear that run back to the flapper valves or what ever you call those things... I don't see why I could not even just weld a metal tube there.

Or use the same type of tubing that runs from the heat exchangers.

Not sure why you need all of the insulation, nothing to catch fire and heat is only on when valves are open.

Has anyone ever used anything else?

Thanks,

Rodney

[eastbay]

Take a look at the DDK / Restorations threads, they deal with the heat tubes all the time over there, seems like every build. Lots of good info.

[Rodney Nelson]

Originally Posted by eastbay

Take a look at the DDK / Restorations threads, they deal with the heat tubes all the time over there, seems like every build. Lots of good info.

Could you please send me a link to one of their threads? I searched for DDK bot could not find anything.

[kach22i]

Weekend weight loss projects...please Id these engine parts for me
Weekend weight loss projects...please Id these engine parts for me

Originally Posted by Jack Olsen

The AC base is a big piece (although it's not as heavy as you think). This is a lousy picture, but you can see where I cut it flush with the engine sheet metal and then polished it up a little.



Another piece back there is the air distributor tube. It's almost 9 pounds of cast aluminum.



I substituted an assortment of (cheap) aluminum and galvanized hardware store pieces.



Ugly -- but out of sight. And the same functionality with 7 pounds 8 ounces of net weight savings.

I didn't weigh the leftover lump of aluminum from the AC base.

You might want to PM the original poster just to make sure it's held up, it's a 2014 post.

[911pcars]

I assume your MY engine has these parts?

The A/C compressor mount bracket is a hunk of thick steel bolted onto the driver side rear corner of the engine. It mounts to the crankcase, valve cover (?) and a couple of long studs on the chain box cover. If not used, I'd remove it and save about 4-5 lbs.

The engine-mounted blower forces ducted air through the driver side sheet metal just below the rear cross mount to that 8 lb. aluminum distribution manifold, then to each heat exchanger where the air is heated, then to each cabin heater valve. It's under no stress other than heated air.

The alternative is to back date the hot air system parts used up to '73 (see archives). It's easier done if the heat exchangers are also backdated along with factory sheet metal

Sherwood

[eastbay]

Here is one:
https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=68115&start=15

If you look around on the other threads there is more coverage

[jpnovak]

I would think a hard silicone tubing would work great there. heat resistant and firm enough not to sag.

I refer to the same reinforced stuff that intercooler connectors are made from. Not sure if you can get it in long enough lengths. Something like this... (choose the 4 ply versions of right ID)

https://www.siliconehose.com/silicone-straight-hose/



The factory material is not really heavy. I think it was used to prevent heat transfer into the longs and across carpet. Not sure that is a bad thing except for the life of the glue holding carpet in place.

[911pcars]

Silicone is a good material. However, expensive. Prices in that link are per inch.

Thin wall al. tube with silicon hose end connectors would be an option. Wrap for increased heat insulation. Source silicone via ebay vendors.

Sherwood