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removing strut insert bushes
So after 20 yrs of 911 ownership I finally had to tackle a new job. Had a wheel bearing play I could not adjust out and came to the conclusion some of it was due to the worn bushes inside the strut. (Some may be in the spindle too - another story). So I was keen to get rid of the clunk in the shock strut. Reading up it looks like a PITA job getting the old bushes out - slide hammer and lots of blisters. I didn't have the appropriate slide hammer and didn't want to acquire the blisters so set off on a different track. The final result works extremely well and may look simple - but took at least 2 days in the shed varying parameters to get it to work. But it works so well am posting it here for those who come next.
I used threaded rod and a specially shaped washer to pull out the bushes. Based on previous posts I wondered if the rod would be strong enough to move them. I used 12 mm, but they came out so easily 10mm may be better (explain later). The trick was to get the parameters right on the bush washer - because you need it to slip over the rod, then rotate enough to slip past the bush , then flip up and lock on to the bush. The rest is simple. My washer started life as a plumbing flange until it met my lathe and angle grinder. You place a smaller heavy 'washer' behind the bush washer to support it. I cut a couple of flats on top of the threaded rod to grip it - you need to hold it while winding the nut - or else it will let go at the bottom. The pics should be self explanatory - hopefully. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The diameter of the hole in the bush washer is approx 25mm, the support washer hole is same as the rod size. The internal strut diameter is 44mm, so you want around 43.5mm on the bush washer and the flats on the side have to be less than 40mm (bush ID). I had to play with the hole size and the amount of flat to grind before it would rotate enough to slip past the bush while still on the rod. Now - why use 10mm rod in next version? The strut rod locating hole (10mm) in the base of the strut goes right thru. So if you don't own a press, there is no reason why you could not pull the new bushes in from the bottom. Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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Great job Alan! Beautifuly thought out and perfect for the DIY guy.
Rahl
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1976 930 turbo Carrera, "Ubich". Mostly stock, lightly sweetened. She’s an angry schwierigkeit. She doesn’t want flowers, she just wants to dance! And when she does, she shakes her hips to the rythem of the road. Drive her like you hate her! |
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Thanks.
I got a bit carried away doing the pics and had a brain fart. The bottom support washer is no special dimension - it just needs to drop down past the bush easy and support the bush washer. Ideally it would probably look like a disc at say 38mm Dia and about 1/8" thick with a hole in center same dia as rod. But I didn't have anything to make something like that. Used what I had handy. The critical dimensions are the bush washer. Otherwise you will spend ages trying to get it down past the bush - like I did. Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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