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I’ve pulled my motor out to change the clutch and I’m leaning towards keeping the flywheel in place as is, but would like some opinions from someone who has been down this road; Should I keep the flywheel as is, get it checked and repair, or buy new? I don’t want to pull the flywheel unnecessarily.
The flywheel has a very smooth and even surface, it is not gouged or uneven. The picture below looks bad but i think the marks are just material rubbed from the clutch. ![]() I didn’t notice any indications of unevenness, vibrations etc., the clutch just started slipping a few hundred miles ago, and recently stopped grabbing at all. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 14,022
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Why wouldn’t you take it off and have it checked?? It’s simple and cheap
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Is it a normal thing to check even if it doesn’t appear to be worn? I just don’t want to fix something that isn’t broken.
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Costa Rica and Pennsylvania U.S.
Posts: 3,301
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Flywheel
I may be old,fat & ugly but am I the only one who sees 3 colors of the rainbow on the working surface?6 puck disc that has been slipped?If that is the same color on the back side just throw it away.Remember that flywheel is cast & not forged.Ciao
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When I did mine, replaced everything. Took no chances.
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Walt 82SC 3.0 81SC 3.6 |
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Are you kidding?
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Why are you so concern about removing the flywheel? I would not install a new clutch disc with that flywheel. Resurfacing a flywheel is not that expensive. Tony |
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Thanks to all for the wake up call! I’ll take it off and get it checked out.
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Also a good idea to replace the front crankshaft seal in the process unless you know it has been changed not too long ago. You will hate to see the engine starting to leak, making it necessary to take out engine once again.
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Regards, Guenter 73.5 911T, mod |
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Good idea to install new flywheel bolts to. Cheap insurance.
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Walt 82SC 3.0 81SC 3.6 |
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I reused my FW bolts, but I got my FW resurfaced. After spending the money on new clutch and PP and reworking my transmission, my mechanic (who rebuild my 915) suggested resurfacing it (sight unseen).
However there are some pros on here, of impeccable reputation who just get new FW. I'm going on my recall of what John Walker said. (based on a resurface job gone bad for another member). My coach said my FW bolts are fine to reuse, and require no locktite. You can get many opinions here.
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BareRearedRookie |
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it is a very easy answer....Flywheel off and have it checked by pro....it is way to shiny . from the disc rivets
Replace the flywheel seal but only Elring type no others reuse the bolts no problem there... Ivan
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1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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Ok new question…. Do you think it can be repurposed as a patio umbrella stand? 🏖
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Quote:
have it checked and get it going ,summer is here;-) Ivan
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1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,312
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Sheesh!
I see the VERY worn disk but I am not seeing scoring on the flywheel. The disk rivets should have scored the flywheel (grooves in the friction surface). Candidly, the flywheel looks fine to me. Just a little shinier than I would prefer but nothing a disk sander couldn't remedy. Perhaps the rivets scored the pressure plate. Pressure plates are good things to replace. In fact, so are guide tubes and forks and, of course, release bearings. A new cable completes the job and helps to ensure excellent pedal action. These clutches work marvelously, but only when the parts are up to spec. As I say, judging by what I see in the photos, the flywheel looks fine to me. They can be resurfaced but...... A special grinding stone is needed which has a very square edge. If the grinding stone has even a slightly rounded corner edge, then the pressure plate will be prevented from lying flat on the flywheel's friction surface. The PP sits inside the flywheel. Also, magnaflux is not a bad idea if you are having the flywheel reconditioned. But again, I would probably take a sander to that flywheel surface and replace everything else. Everything. Never reuse flywheel bolts. Pressure plate bolts, okay, but never flywheel bolts.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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I think when the clutch let go I revved it pretty high but disengaged as soon as it went, I was only a mile from home and i limped into the garage really easy, so that’s probably why there isn’t any scorning on the flywheel.
I already rebuilt the pedal cluster. I’ll probably just replace everything. It’s a little more than I wanted to do (spend) but I think taking the the time to get it right the first time is a better strategy then taking more time to get it right the second time. …and I’ll have to get a smaller patio umbrella. |
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,312
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Your plan is wise. I'll never argue with someone who plans to just replace everything while they have the engine and transmission separated. Do everything. Cable, guide tube, fork, everything. Go ahead and replace the rear main seal on the engine if you want, but they rarely leak. Yours does not appear to be leaking. Wet clutch discs are usually caused by a leaking transmission input shaft front seal.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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I’m looking at the Sachs power clutch kit package (Porsche Pelican Super Clutch Kit - Complete Package w/ Power Clutch). Is that overkill in a street only car?
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Here's what Porsche has to say about reuse of flywheel bolts.
![]() That being said, if I noticed any issues then I would replace them. |
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Quote:
forget the umbrella..when you are finished with the clutch job you do not have a stand for it;-))))) Ivan
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1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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