Printed out some of these vents for the footwells. I would like to modify the achtung ones I have or maybe just add a piece to make them more usable with this system. They were great for regular ventilation, but lost their ability when the system turned into a push/pull. Also, wanted to show how I routed the hoses. I also just moved the Cabin sensor from the blend t fitting to a grommet that leads into the cabin. I believe it was there for the factory AC. It is a perfect place for in cabin temperature.

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Got the 3d printed vent installed on the passenger side. I also checked the flow with a sheet of paper. If all things are good you should have good suction from the large mouth opening and a steady flow of air coming from the circular vent. Reading over Duc Hunter's thread he recommends the best approach to cooling down the cabin the fastest is to have all vents open. I was trying different methods yesterday when trying to cool down my heat soaked car. I will try that with the next test. I ended up unplugging the driver side drain on the blower as my plug was only slightly stopping condensation as well as it was leaking from the driver corner. I will route a line down and out and hopefully this will prevent any overflow past the 2 drain points. Including a shot of where my Cabin sensor comes into the cabin.

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I guess what I am wondering is if I pull out the original system completely is there any reason I could not be the new condenser in the front where the old one was located. I do see that folks are using both by putting the new one in the wheel well but I am thinking to just out the new one in the old location, since I have not seen that done I am thinking there is something I am missing or maybe it simply won't fit with the fan?

The new condensor is a square where as the stock one is a rectangle. You could probably mount the new in the old location, but you would need to create your own rock guards. I also dont know if there would be enough ground clearance to mount it in the stock place with the newer fan. You would need to use the stock fan and I don't know if that will efficiently cool the entire surface area.

2nd impression update - Much better. I currently have the carpet installed, both 3d printed ducts and the everything set to blow, tops, sides, and bottom (per Duc Hunters thread). My experience had a slight crutch though because the car was not heat soaked, it was in an ac controlled garage. I started out with a 27C cabin temp, 83F outside temp, 60% humidity. The drive was nice. I was able to get the vent temps down to 40 - 45F so very nice. It was almost to the point where I needed to turn it down. I ended up rolling down the windows to check the outside temp. It was nice and I could have drove with the wind blowing and felt fine on a long trip. It was at the tipping point of comfortable and bearable. I rolled the windows back up to get the inside cabin temps up to 30-31C. From there I switched the AC back on. I could see the temps go down and it felt nice inside the car. My trip was not as far in this leg. I got the vent temps down to 50F, but not less. Possibly with more driving I could have gotten them further down. The cabin temp stayed a constant 31C for the last leg as well. I am currently heat soaking the car out in 85 degree weather with a 60% humidity. Will report back with another test. I can say that this test did not tax the system like yesterdays heat soak of internal cabin temps ~120 degrees.

2nd impression part duex - I am pleased with the system. I was in a heat soaked car(39C cabin temps) Same outside ambient temps 85F, 66% humidity. In my 20 minute drive the vent temps got down to 50F and the Cabin temps dropped down to 34C. 93F may seem warm with 50F degree air blowing at you from all angles it is not. I started to sweat immediately upon entering my Targa. Each minute the drive started to feel even more enjoyable and eventually the sweat dissipated. This is what I was looking for in my first impression. I strongly feel the carpet, and blend values had a huge role in increasing the efficacy of this setup. I can't say that the 120F cabin temps I had yesterday would get down to a manageable 93F the system vents got down to the same 50F so it is a possibility with enough driving (40+ mins) and recirculating the hot air that it could have happened.

The recirculation is a huge part of this system. I put a thin piece of paper under the duct and it had decent suction. If there was a way to harness all the warm air into it the cabin would cool even faster. I am now wondering if the drivers side cool blower port was not capped it would cool even better. Not sure where I could divert this air to.

I will say this again and I believe it is stated on the RC page. If you live in a climate that has regular humidity levels above 50% combine with temps above 90F then it is almost necessary to have a 2nd condensor. I will be looking into adding the factory one to my setup, but probably not until 6mo to a year later. Further testing needs to be done.

Reviewing your blower install. The lower two 60mm outlets should go to the Porsche blend valves (you currently have the top ones connected here). The upper driver side then goes to the centre vent. This leaves the driver upper outlet to supply a face vent in the clock position. On a RHD car this is golden since the clock is near the side window so you have air either side of you (from clock vent and centre vent). On a LHD, you can do the same but you’ll have to move the oil gauge so it is near centre of dash.

Oh Wow! :eek: I can't believe I did that. I will swap those before the next runs.

Stefan(austria3) reached out to me regarding my lower vents. He has an updated STL for the underdash ducts. It does away with the flex pipe and uses a solid slimmer setup. I will post a picture when the print is complete.

I swapped the ducts last night as well as set my printer to print the newer version of the. Here it is. This will definitely be a better option vs the tube hanging down, but it also loses the flexibility to direct the flow. I have the passenger vent tube angled towards me to feel more cool air. I spoke with Stefan on this. What would be nice is the same funnel that is now fixed to be able to move. I could use the original ones I printed with a funnel that has a O.D the same thickness as the current hose (50mm I believe)

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I also got the driver side blower drain plumbed out the bottom of the smugglers box. So now I have 2 separate lines going out the bottom. There was already 2 holes here most likely for the original freon lines coming in.

Quick test 3 update - 84F, humidity 67%. 20 min drive from climate controlled garage. The cab temp raised from 24C to 26C only after making one stop. Current vents are 40F for the side front is 36F. Very comfortable inside the cabin.

Question - How are users addressing the condensation that leaks from the expansion valve? Mine sits directly over brake lines. While they are coated, enough condensation to drip and run down the steering shaft column to the smugglers box is a little concerning.

I never noticed condensation on my expansion valve. I’ll have to take a look, but I never saw the carpet getting wet.

Is your frunk lid sealing OK? There shouldn’t be much airflow in there.

My smugglers box lid is the factory item with a seal on the lip. And I sealed most of the holes in the bottom/sides of the smugglers box.

Maybe humid air is infiltrating your frunk?

Just a thought. —Dave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's not a lot, but still enough to slightly flow down where the steering shaft joint is. So do I need to reinstall my original smugglers box lid? I have the rennline installed. If it is important to seal up the compressor/smugglers box area then I will do it. Only if this will squeeze the most performance out of the kit.

Factory expansion valves were usually covered in black sealant goo.
You’d never have seen the condensation on it in the smugglers box.

This is the expansion valve off the side of the blower. At least I think it is the expansion valve...TXR or XVR something like that.

Sidenote - the Keynice sensors from Amazon for $10 are pretty baller sensors.

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Yup, that’s the same one I installed 3 weeks ago.
I was referencing the factory one that was mounted to the BEHR unit I removed from my smugglers box.

Another test update - Let the car heat soak in 80 - 90 degree weather today for about an 1hr. The starting temp in the cabin was 75F. After an hour or so it got up to 115F. The humidity started around 70, but as it got warmer out (90) it dropped down to 56%.

I rolled the windows down and set out. This would help clear the bottled up hot air in the cabin. I had the blower on full blast for about a half mile before turning on the system and rolling up the windows. The cabin temps dropped to 111 by just driving with the windows down and blower on. Within 5 minutes or so the vent temps had gotten around 60 and the cabin got down to about 104. I needed to stop off for gas which put everything in limbo. The gas station was covered so the heat levels stayed level. After gas everything was a go again (mainly highway driving at 75mph). At the halfway point the cabin temps had gotten down to around 97. The vent temps were high 50s. The car was cooling down slowly. I was no longer actively sweating, but still not as comfortable as I had hoped. As I started back home I decided to try out colder temps with less flow. It worked I kicked down the fan to level 2 and was able to get vent temps to the low 50s. The cabin temps started to go down some more after what seemed like they had leveled off around 96F. If I increased the blower speed the vent temps went back to the high 50s. I was able to sustain the comfort of the slower fan speed to try and get colder temps in the cabin. Once back home cabin temps were 92F. So roughly a 45 minute drive in 91F with 56% humidity netted a decrease of 23 degrees. The cabin was borderline comfortable. In cooler temps, mid 80s this feeling goes to comfortable. Other factors are heat soaking. I feel if I did the same test from the 75F cabin temps the car may increase in cabin temp a little from the sun beating down, but the system is already working with somewhat cool air.

This must be where the 2nd condensor shines. While I wish this system would be powerful enough with just a single condensor I don't think it is feasible in climates similar to mine. The users that have added the 2nd condensor swear by it. Within the 50+ pages of the main ElectroCooler thread a guy, that doesn't use this system, has 4 condsensor on his car and claims he can make ice.

I feel as though everything is efficient. I believe the only thing that could make my setup better is to add some of the insulation with foil in front of the blower to help seal everything even more. I don't have any holes between the cabin and trunk. Does my smugglers box need to be air tight? Not really sure since compressors live in the engine bay where it is hot.

Could you do a screen shot of the laptop screen showing what settings you have. There are settings that you can change from factory default that may improve your cold temps a little. I have not taken additional steps like the thermal blanket for the evaporator or tinted window screening. I have thought about insulating the individual input/output hoses on the evaporator.

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Pat - here are my default settings from 1.17 - looks like the only main difference is your Cabin set point is 5C and mine is 20C. I don't think I have ever achieved a cabin set point of 20C (68F). I can change that value lower, but it will probably be moot.
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Definitely try changing the set point below 20c. If you look at mine with a set point of 5c I was getting 6.2 at the evaporator. 6.2c equates to 43f. I might be wrong but I believe once the compressor hits the set point temp it will throttle back the compressor output to maintain that set point. I just noticed your compressor current was at I = 0 amps while mine is at 50 amps.