Whole Axle Replacement - Carrera

[doublebuffle]

I did this tonight and it was easy. I tried to document everything so here goes:

I had a small hole develop on the INNER CV boot. I don't know how long it's been there. I did not want to rebuild the boots because the cost of the tools required creeps up to the same range as a replacement axle from PP/host (GKN). I'll keep the old axle, so I have something to reboot if I feel the urge or need.



Here is how I set up for the stub-axle nut removal. I borrowed a snap-on breaker/extension and 32mm socket for this job. Otherwise, I would have needed a 3/4" drive for this. (I actually have a chinese 1/2" breaker that would have definitely broken doing this... snap-on is free replacement).

I added my jack handle for a cheater-bar and about half of my weight before I had the first "break". It was a loud crack. My truck did the same thing. However this car has many miles and required two "breaks" before the nut came loose. I was certainly thinking my jack handle would brake before the nut gave way but it didn't.

For safety I removed the two bolts holding the jack handle together and threw a heavy cloth over the whole rig.



Jacked up car and threw a couple of jack stands down. 3.2 has the lift points.



Here is the nut and washer off.



I was very lucky. The last person to do this put LOTS of anti-seize on the spines and the axle gave way with a light kick from my boot.




I removed the axle-to-transmission bolts with an hex socket and about 4 extensions. I've been down there before for engine removal so no issues.

[doublebuffle]

I removed the shock absorber which made removal of the old axle possible. This is directed by the bentley manual, and considering how much trouble this car has given me in the bolt-removal-department, it was pretty easy. 22mm bolt.



Here is the new axle with the OLD bolts installed.



New stube axle with plenty of anti-seize.



I had the jack holding up the rear trailing arm. I lowered it 1/2" ad the bolt connecting the shock absorber went right back in.



Axle to trans bolts torqued to 60 lb-ft. Again using 4 extensions. I did this in two phases, using the parking brake to hold the axle from spinning while I tightened.



Stub axle actually goes in first but that seems pretty obvious.

[doublebuffle]

I cleaned up the hub and brake disc because I had gotten PB blaster everywhere before I broke the axle nut loose.



Everything all back together.



Ooooo.



I torqued the axle nut to the highest mark on my torque wrench (250 lb-ft)... but the bentley manual requires 340! So I put on the extension, stood 2.5' away, and put about 3/4 of my weight on it (abot 135 lbs). Very scientific! To give it a little extra "oomph" I bounced VERY gently. Dynamic force is very different from static though so I will let someone more mechanical take that point up.



Here is my old axle.

I hope this helps someone!

[Canada Kev]

I'd take your car past your favourite tire shop or HD mechanic to ask them to torque the nut properly with a torque wrench.

I did the same thing using a four foot 3/4" drive breaker bar. I figured at two feet from the end my weight would approximate the 340 lbs. However, I ran down to the shop that I take my work truck to for service. "Jimmy! Do you guys have a torque wrench that goes up to 340 lbs?"

They did and tightened it up just a little to the correct amount. It wasn't much but then I had the piece of mind that it was for sure correct. Plus Jimmy is a cool guy and likes my car. He suggested he should take it for a test to "make sure it was good." I tossed him the key and he just grinned and tossed it back.

[NYNick]

Nice job and write up. Love that car.

[Helix8]

From Wayne's book "Using a torque wrench, tighten up the bolts to 83 N-m 61 ft-lb for cars with four M10 bolts on the flanges, and 47 N-m 34 ft-lb for cars with six M8 bolts on the flanges." Also should use new spring washers - looks like you have M8 bolts on your flanges? Thanks for the write-up!

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by Canada Kev

I'd take your car past your favourite tire shop or HD mechanic to ask them to torque the nut properly with a torque wrench.

I did the same thing using a four foot 3/4" drive breaker bar. I figured at two feet from the end my weight would approximate the 340 lbs. However, I ran down to the shop that I take my work truck to for service. "Jimmy! Do you guys have a torque wrench that goes up to 340 lbs?"

They did and tightened it up just a little to the correct amount. It wasn't much but then I had the piece of mind that it was for sure correct. Plus Jimmy is a cool guy and likes my car. He suggested he should take it for a test to "make sure it was good." I tossed him the key and he just grinned and tossed it back.

When I had my rear axle nut off I too did the math at home. 3 Foot bar and stand on a bathroom scale until I weigh 114 lbs less on the scale. Then I drove over to a truck stop a few miles away. It looked funny with a 911 at a truck stop but I found a mechanic. I had my socket in my hand and offered the guy $20 cash if he would walk over to the car and torque each side. It took him 20 seconds to do it and I felt better.

I will mention my wife was concerned when I went to the garage with the bathroom scale in my hands.

[mercuray]

replacing entire axle/CV assembly from Pelican on my '87 911.

Seems to be a challenge to get the bolts started, probably due to difficulty getting holes aligned with threaded base.

Any suggestions to ease the process?

[OldSpool87]

Grady offered a tip using two old CV bolts with end caps cut off. He cut slits into the end of each to accommodate a screw driver. The sacrificial bolts were installed as guides and back out for final assembly.

[hcoles]

Question - when you push out the axle did the inner inside race stick to the axle? I assume your bearing is the dual row angular type with two inner races. Maybe I'm confused on when/where the one inner races sticks to something.

[911Obbie]

Getting ready to dive onto replacing both of mine. Are the 32 MM nuts standard thread rotation - i.e. counterclockwise remove, and clockwise tighten on both sides?
Thanks.

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by 911Obbie

Getting ready to dive onto replacing both of mine. Are the 32 MM nuts standard thread rotation - i.e. counterclockwise remove, and clockwise tighten on both sides?
Thanks.

Yep, standard righty tighty, lefty loosy.

[Gianni at Pelican Parts]

Nice work replacing the axle at home. Quality write up and DIY spirit that Pelican is always about.

Gives me confidence to replace the boots (or whole axles) on my E30 that I know have been torn on the outer boots for at least 4 months.

[911obgyn]

60 lb tourque alarms me, on the transmission to axle. That is for the 4 bolt flange. Consider new bolts, washers, i will mark with paintmarker and double check after a couple of drives.

[Marc Bixen]

Don't let the "guessers" worry you. A 3.2 carrera with that style axle, inner bolts are 10mm, and t torqued to 61lbs. You did it all right. Good job. I also would run by a local shop and have the outer torque checked.

[Hnichols]

Originally Posted by doublebuffle

I did not want to rebuild the boots because the cost of the tools required creeps up to the same range as a replacement axle from PP/host (GKN). I'll keep the old axle, so I have something to reboot if I feel the urge or need.

Nice write up with good pics.

I'm curious, though, about your statement here; I'm probably missing something. The boots are about $10 apiece, and the only tool you need is a crimping tool for the clamps -- maybe about $20 at Autozone. Also, the hardest part of the job is breaking the axle bolt and retorquing it; replacing the boot and regreasing the CV joint is the easy part, esp. if it's the inner boot (a torn outer boot requires you to remove both, a poor design feature of the Carrera axles). But to each his own.

When I did this a couple of years ago I rented a massive, 3/4" drive torque wrench from Autozone. (They charge you for it, but if you return it within a timeframe you get a full credit.)

I also remember trying to torque the six bolts to 60 ft-lbs or whatever it says in the Bentley manual, but thought I would round the the hex bolts if I did so. I vaguely recall someone mentioning that the torque spec in the Bentley manual is wrong for the 6 bolt joints, but I could be wrong about that.

[archstanton]

Originally Posted by hcoles

Question - when you push out the axle did the inner inside race stick to the axle? I assume your bearing is the dual row angular type with two inner races. Maybe I'm confused on when/where the one inner races sticks to something.

The hub is inside the bearing, the axle is inside the hub. So the inner race will stick to the hub when its removed.