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You would have found that the wheel in question was a lot hotter than it should be.
Rebuilding a caliper isn’t expensive but PMB calipers are quite nice and I hate doing things like rebuilding calipers. Quote:
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If the brakes got hot enough to fail due to a dragging caliper, you would have smelled it. At least once you pulled over, and maybe even from the cockpit while driving. Hard to describe the burning smell, but it's distinctive and very obvious.
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Since they are dragging, have you determined why?
Is the caliper piston(s) sticking? Brake lines collapsing? Something else? |
Brake pads will always rub slightly against the rotor without brake system pressure. A secondary function of the piston seals is to slightly retract the pads with zero system pressure.
In that there seems to be excessive rotational friction with the brake pads removed eliminates a stuck caliper piston and/or bloated brake lines. Instead, it indicates the rotational friction might be from another source (e.g. excessive wheel bearing preload, damaged wheel bearing, lack of lube, wheel weights rubbing on hub/caliper, etc.). MHO, Sherwood |
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Frank, the car is going to be a hoot when done...
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New paint and nicely refinished PMB Calipers would be a lovely combination. Brakes and steering are the two most important controls on your car.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1627569012.jpg
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Steering rack rebuild and Quaife Quick Rack rack & pinion install are on the to do list (along with replacing / refreshing the rest of the running gear) while the paint is curing. |
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Master seals… my guess. I’m replacing mine on a M491
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If you don't know how old the flex brake lines are, replace them. Old lines come apart inside, and the crud blocks return flow, so the pads keep rubbing the disk. As the car sat for a short while, fluid seeped back through the blockage, and the brakes felt normal again.
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Heat, heat, baby.
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Test the brakes periodically when driving ... any car, not just our 40 year old classics ...
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Had a similar experience, when given time to cool brakes returned to normal. I always carry a laser temperature gun in glove box and was able to diagnose which wheel/caliper was faulty. Car sat at shop for several weeks so could be either stuck caliper or master cylinder |
Hey Frank, scary stuff, I just rebuilt the right rear caliper on my M491, it had a slight drag. One of the pistons had a wear mark on it. New piston, new seals, it was good to go.
I'd be happy to do your set with the steering rack. Vents is looking great as a slick top! Pics of a set I did a while ago. We ended up getting all new pistons as most were bad http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562807839.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1627734336.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1627734336.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1627734336.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562808037.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562808037.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562808037.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562808037.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562808037.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562808037.jpg |
W00T!
Looks amazing! I need to put a list together (calipers, steering rack, front control arms, etc.) for you so we can coordinate / define project scope. |
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Thanks for all the responses and input here. It takes a village. I'm probably going to go through and refresh the brake system on my 1987 too. |
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