What cams do I have? Should I replace PP w/clutch?
 

Hey guys. I’m going through receipts from the previous owner. My car is an 88 3.2. The previous owner had European pistons and cylinders installed. He had the car chipped, did chain tensioner‘s and valve guides through lots of that’s like that. All of this was done back in 2000. There’s about 35,000 miles on the car says. I’ve just drop the motor and trans and I’m replacing the clutch this week. I was looking for paperwork to see if he had replace the pressure plate and throw out bearing when he did the clutch. The only receipt I’ve got is $750 for a clutch. Since I’m replacing the clutch because it was contaminated with oil, I’ve been going back-and-forth on whether or not to replace the pressure plate and throw out bearing. I think I’m going to go ahead and do it although a reputable Porsche mechanic told me I could just put these parts back in since there was nothing wrong. Any thoughts on this? Part of me wants to throw the Pp and bearing back in and save the money..but it would suck if those need replacing soonish..the clutch disk had a lot of life, just contaminated.

Back to the main point..I’m looking through receipts and I’m curious what cams the car has. Can anyone tell me by the picture below? Also I believe he mentioned something about a battery cut off switch when I bought the car up a few years ago. In the paperwork I see your the battery cut off switch it was purchased. Where would that be? Thanks in advance http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628559287.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628559287.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628559287.jpg

Follow the battery positive lead, if battery switch was installed it would be there. You can look up 20/21 cams on this site.
I would replace throwout bearing and carefully check pressure plate for cracks or heat.

Web Cam Racing Cams Inc. / Porsche 911 SOHC 12v

Scroll down to the 20/21 for specs.

Will do thank you!

Perfect! Thank you!

The PP-TOB-Fly wheel and clutch are a system and should all be replaced at the same time.

got a pic showing this disc contaminated with oil?

I've had good luck just cleaning up the friction pad on pressure plates and reusing with new discs.

I replaced just the disk and TOB on my 930.
take a look at the surface of the PP. make sure there are not excessive hot spots.
mine had a few. mine is fine.

Any clutch rebuild shop can resurface both the flywheel and pressure plate and I highly recommend you do both. They will be as good as new at probably less than $150 for the pair (based on my experiences).

Purchase a lightweight clutch kit, including an aluminum pressure plate, from Patrick Motorsports. They'll ballance the entire assembly as a unit. Then enjoy a more rev happy 3.2.

The steel PP is a boat anchor.

Consider sticking with a rubber centered (vs spring centered) clutch disc if you're not interested in risking potential gear noise at idle (in neutral).

I've installed spring center clutch discs in two G50s. One didn't make any noise at all, the other rattles a lot.

The aluminum PP option is worth considering at this juncture...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628767078.jpg

Buy a clutch kit. Why do the job twice in the potentially near future. Pleasure plates can fail. It is not always the disc that gets worn requiring replacement.

Cheers

You’re happy with yours? I’ve read some people saying the lightweight set up can make regular driving more of a chore..

My car is a bit of a hot rod but I don’t want the clutch to be super sensitive and Rally’s and road trips a bummer

I had the flywheel resurfaced but I’m thinking I’ll replace the PP so it’s all new parts at the same time with the exception of the flywheel

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628971201.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628971201.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628971201.jpg

Can anyone else weigh in on this lightweight clutch kit? I’m about ready to put this back together and get the motor back in..but if this is a good upgrade that will make the car more fun to drive without making it a nightmare to drive in occasionally traffic I’d go for it

Sorry, I've been tied up in Monterey. ;-)

YMMV, but my '87 has a lightweight flywheel, spring centered clutch disc AND a lightweight aluminum pressure plate, dropping almost ten pounds. Granted, my idle speed is set 50 RPM higher than stock, but I have zero drivability issues, even around town, with the AC on.

As a result, I think you could pretty easily go with just the lightweight flywheel without any issues.

Depending on which TO bearing release fork crossbar setup you have, you may have a bigger decision to make. Do you know if you have the early or late style? What are you planning to do there?

This!

And replace the pilot bearing "while you are in there" If the flywheel is not worn maybe just resurface it. Don't just replace the clutch disk.

Thanks for the reply gentleman. I mulled it over and stayed with the stock flywheel (resurfaced) new clutch disk, TOB, and standard PP. I really wanted to go lightweight but wasn’t too sure if it would make it hyper sensitive. Installed all of this today. I went with the bronze bushing cross shaft update. I had the “newer” version with the ears being reamed out for the needle bearings. JW zip tie is awesome to set the arm in place on the PP. the only thing I’m not certain of is weather or not I need to take 10mm off the cross shaft as JW has stated in the past. A couple other gents here have said it’s not needed. Hoping I only have to try and mate the trans to the motor one time. The shaft looks pretty darn centered to me as is.

I think replacing everything at once was the right call. Thanks for all the help. I’ll check here one more time tomorrow to see if anyone replies to this cross shaft situation lol.

As far as grease goes..I’m set, I read about 1000 threads on grease lol

I did replace the pilot bearing as well, that was always a must on my list. Thanks!