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Man I’m just glad you got to drive the car after all that! My car has been similarly testing and I folded and handed it over to a professional. I commend your persistence on this. Hopefully you get to enjoy a bunch of easy miles on it now
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I have contemplated throwing in the towel and sending it to a pro but I just can’t.
Every time I reach that breaking point, I (or the equally delusional members of the Full Send Society: Nate, Gabe, Chris and Tony) remind me that this was the point: to have something that pushes me, challenges me, forces me to learn and constantly evolve. If I were to quit, I’d have to somehow make peace with that every time I looked at or drove the car and I’m not sure that I could. For the most part, I’m ok with taking punches and struggling as long as there are some reprieves, some rewards and some triumphs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Knee deep in organizer duties left me somewhat paralyzed to offer any type of assistance leading up to the event. And cell service is non-existent by design in WV, so I'm catching up via the thread.
I feel for every car/driver that doesn't make the trip after planning for months. But staying back and using the allotted time to "finish the job right" has a massive amount of merit. Let's get a hang scheduled ASAP. It won't be WV but we'll have all the HP at WI elevation ;) |
I'm glad you're back on the road. Do you, or does anyone, have a source for rubber boots for the wiring end of those COPs? I've looked but haven't found anything yet.
Do you need the clips for the COPs? The Denso copies I'm using firmly hug the plugs so I didn't bother with them. |
The COP connectors actually don't come with boots- you use the little silicone wire seals that get crimped to the wires to create a clean seal.
I thought about designing and printing some boots out of TPU, but 1.) my printer is still down, and 2.) I'm not sure the TPU would sustain the head right near the valve covers... Also, it seemed like just too. much more work when I needed a win. The Audi/Vw coils are super secure on the plugs but I have some metal brackets to hold them in place... partly because it looks cool but also belt and suspenders... I'll probably replace them with 3D printed brackets eventually as these look a bit sloppy and I'll need somethign to do over winter... ;) |
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Yup, they seal the connector from dirt and debris when a boot isn't available... THey use the larger part of the connector.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749491061.jpg |
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Life and paying the bills have been getting in the way of me catching up on this thread but I've finally done it. Now I'm glad I could read through to the happy ending! Although sorry you missed the rally.
One small detail - all heads (and cam carriers) are aluminum, regardless of the material the block is cast from. As always, thanks for posting these very enjoyable updates. I did LOL at "the miracle of death"! |
Well, it's been a minute for sure, but that seems to be the pace of this thread lately.
After the disappointment of missing Ruchlos, I kind of just walked away from the car. I contemplated getting rid of it or storing it long term... it was just such a frustrating experience, I needed a break. So, I didn't' do anything with it for a week, then two, then a month and then six weeks... No projects, no drives, not even starting it. Sometime in July I took it up to Wisconsin one Saturday for a drive. It performed admirably, without any issues at all. In fact the new coils had an appreciably positive effect on the feel of the car- pulls were harder and stronger and acceleration significantly improved. I'm not sure if I had bad coils or the Audi coils are just better but I'll take it. On said drive, somewhere west or Racine, I rounded a bend and spotted a cop sitting on the top of an overpass. Naturally I slowed down but sure enough; berries in my rear view. Mark it 0, Dude. After giving her my license and registration she goes to the car and then comes back: Her: why the speed, where where you going: Me: nowhere, just out for a drive… Her: what year? Me: the car? 77 Her: (looking puzzled) backdate? Me: (looking puzzled) yeah… Her: still have the 2.7? Me: yeah… Her: stock? Me: no, ITBs, cams… Her: (nodding and then seeing the shock on my face) my dad was huge into Porsches, had a ton of them, I grew up driving them around here. Listen, I clocked you at 80, this is a 45. Take it west, away from town and just keep it under control. Me: you bet. Thanks. Mark it 8. -- Anyhow. I've been tinkering away at the digital gauge and am happy to report that it's freaking awesome and rock solid. This fall I'll be posting a new thread about the gauge with details, video, and whatnot and potentially taking on commissions to make custom gauges for those with EFI. I've also been tinkering away at another version of my AC mods while also working on a secret AC project as well. For a shorter-term project (haha, yeah right) I decided that I wanted rallye lights. In Chicago there's never not enough light but out in some of the places this car has been and will go, that's not the case and the H4's, even with 100w halogens aren't stellar. So, I started looking at lights. I didn't want something new looking but the Cibbie Palas are like $700 and that's stupid. In addition, I really didn't want to drill through my hood as I don't want the lights present all the time- just when I need them... So, I decided to design and fabricate some of my own. These are angle-adjustable magnet-mounted rallye lights that fit a standard 5.5" H4 motorcycle light that can be bought on Amazon in clear or amber for $30. They're wired through fuses and relays to a switch under my dash (where all my switches are) that activates the high or low beams. The wiring under the hood runs in the side channels and is affixed with magnets to the underside as well to keep everything tidy. No holes anywhere, fully removable and storable for when not needed. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756474506.jpg The 3D render after scanning in some 5.5" amber lights I bought off amazon for $30. These take H4 bulbs and look the part. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756474558.jpg The 3D printed pieces after prep for paint. Sanding, high build primer, sanding, primer, sanding... you know the drill. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756474610.jpg Detail of the paint. I'm really proud of how well I've gotten at painting things. Kinda makes me wish I had another car to build...hmmm... At this point I though I would paint the retainer ring that holds the light in place but then I decided why not try to electroplate it... I've watched a YouTube video, how hard can that be... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756474658.jpg The retainer ring after painting with conductive graphite paint. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756474783.jpg After a bunch of trial and error I finally got a copper coating that was good, or so I thought. Good isn't good enough here, it needs to be absolutely perfect. Like way more perfect than a pre-paint surface. There's no way to properly electroplate chrome. One must first electroplate with copper and then brush plate with palladium, which isn't chrome. At best the palladium will give you a chrome-like finish but again, it's super finicky. But that's what's available so I tried. Remember when I said good isn't good enough... well, that's pretty clear. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756475078.jpg The palladium plated ring. It's ok. Maybe 5/10. Not bad for a first try but certainly not good enough to run on the car. Perhaps a rat-rod or a patinated car, but not this one. I'm not terribly mad though as this was my first go-round and I am already starting experimentation with different materials and approaches. I'll get it eventually, but for now, this won't cut it. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756475192.jpg The lights with the aforementioned palladium rings. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756475228.jpg My copper wasn't pristine and so the palladium is spotty. Not bad on its own but not good compared to true chrome. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756475276.jpg So, I decided to print another set of rings and wrap them in the same vinyl that I have on the hood. Looks much better even if it's a bit too much amber/gold. It'll suffice for now. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756475328.jpg And the lights in action on low. The wires are visible and for some that may be a deal breaker but I'm ok with the compromise and if ever I get a fiberglass hood, I'll use induction power transfer through the hood for a cleaner look... but really, I don't think that's all that necessary... I may print some magnet holders for the wires though... we'll see. All that's needed now are some lens covers which I'll print out of flexible TPU and fashion some straps. I won't mimic the Cibie or Sev Marchal logo but something would be nice on that surface.... I'm open to suggestions. Anyhow, that was a fun project and I learned a lot about electroplating and once I figure it out it'll be fun to make all sorts of "chrome" bits for these cars. I'm about to go camping with my kids for the Labor Day weekend and then after returning on Monday afternoon, I have to unpack, and then right away repack for a 2-week trip to Japan as I leave Monday at midnight! It's going to be a helluva wild ride. When I return it will have marked 9 weeks in a row that I haven't spent a weekend at. home due to traveling. And then in October it's Overcrest in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina so these will come in handy for sure! |
nice work Julian as always...
I am very interested in your "update" to the ac system... I'll stay tuned to this thread a/o feel free to pm me & if you ever start to sell your controllers for the hvac sys I am interested... FYI... I have been in contact with classic retro & their electric ac system WITH HEAT will soon be released... |
Hello fellow Pelicans, time for an update.
This weekend was the Overcrest Rally in Georgia/North Carolina and among a hundred plus cars were many Pelicans and many Porsches. I was excited to take the car out to the mountains and some fun roads to see haw it behaves with the M1 cams and new trans, and having missed Ruchlos, I was very excited. The drive down was uneventful and the car performed beautifully on the highway holding 3500 rpm at 90mph with the taller 5th and averaging 23mpg. Remember; M1 cams and ITB's. We hit the Tail of The Dragon on the way down, ad a lot of civilian traffic. Even so, it was a fantastic road and wonderful drive if interrupted by truck, campers, trikes, and looky-loos. Oh well. The rest of the weekend was filled with more and more twisty ribbons of asphalt, gorgeous foliage, hanging with old friends at pit stops and making new friends in parking lots. While ostensibly about driving, these rallyes are really about community, exploration, and expansion; all things that are perfectly facilitated by an old 911. The roads in NC were stunning and I was driving roads that a decade ago I trained on with my bike for my now long gone semi-pro racing career. On a bike, some of these roads were harrowing, in a car; downright cornhole puckering. One such road featured a crazy declining radius, non-cambered, downhill, blind corner on pavement that was poured in the Eisenhower era. I was tail gunning and having a chiller day and stuck behind a civilian in a Subaru who had infiltrated our conga line (this was a constant theme throughout the weekend) when I came upon that corner. Earlier a few cars had locked up and run out to a driveway/gravel patch just off the apex of the turn and when I came around I saw several cars on/in/off the road and was wondering where I was to go. I locked up my brakes and tried to guide the car to a narrow patch of gravel but alas, there too was a car. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760975554.jpg We touched tips and now our cars are besties. The other car (an SC) has a dent in the door and front fender and some paint damage but was spared any real catastrophe. The rear of the front right tire was sticking out (steering wheel turned all the way left) and took the majority of the force which knocked it out of alignment and turned my fender into a steel taco with ground headlight topping. The tire taking the impact also likely saved me from going over the edge. Luckily the damage was all in the bumper and fender and the car was completely fine otherwise. We aligned the SC in a parking lot at the base of the hill and I made rally repairs to the 911 to get it back on the road to the hotel for a beer and to shop for new parts. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760975586.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760975586.jpg This morning, I stripped the fender and bumper and was happy to see 1.) no tub damage at all and 2.) no rust at all (it was a brown car at birth). So I got that going for me. New parts are on order; about $2k worth of damage but winter is coming and I could use a project. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760975619.jpg As one of my buddies would say: "Rallye *****" --- The good (and well, not so good news-more later) about the engine is that it motored! The M1 cams with the EFI was a radical change from last year's stock engine. I've been really impressed with the M1 and its wizzardry; below 4k it's a pretty mild cam and drives like a normal car should; no hesitation, no lunking, no issues. From 4k-7k is very different and the power increase is quite noticeable. While still a modest 2.7 with stock compression and CIS pistons, it was able to hang with much more powerful cars. Now, here in Chicago, we have no mountains and engine braking and huge vacuum isn't really a thing. Well, in the mountains, it's a thing and unfortunately it revealed that the engine is sucking, nay gulping oil pas the rings. The whole trip was about 2k miles. 1400 or so was travel to and from with about 600 hard driving miles. The car consumed about 1 quart per 100 miles; 6 quarts during those 600 miles. The 1300 or so highway miles it hardly consumed any. So, we have a problem. The solution is to build a new motor while keeping this one running for as long as possible before stripping it of parts like cams, alternator, ITBs, etc... and using them for the new motor. I'm weary of not having a driving car and being down for a long time while parts are machined, etc... So, buying a 2.7 core and having the case and heads machined while I build a wiring harness and then assembling as much as possible before dropping the current motor and harvesting it's organs might be more efficient. In addition I'm not sure that I can find/afford a 3.0/3,2/3.6 core and it would require all new SSIs and ITBs thus driving the cost further up. And frankly I like the free revving 2.7, and in a light narrow body 77, I think it would be a perfect fit. I don't want to widebody the car but I have Chris' LBDC SC fenders if I feel the need for more meat eventually. My thought is to take a 2.7 mag case and build a 2.8 short stroke, twin plug, 9.5:1 compression, M1 cammed EFI ITB motor. But I'm open to suggestions for a streetable, daily driver that can get nasty on rallyes. |
2.8
twin plug 10.5:1 M1 ITB No need to be shy with compression if you twin-spark it. |
What an update. :( Glad to read everyone is okay.
Guess you were on the Ruschig Rallye. Looking forward to following along on the rebuild process. Your writeups and fabbing/building skills are top notch. |
I thought the m1 cams were for cis and cis pistons. If you are using non cis pistons, higher compression, twin plug and ITB’s why not use proper cams for the combo?
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Hey Mark,
All good questions that I, as someone with a very shallow pool of engine building knowledge cannot yet answer. If you have any thought I welcome your expertise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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PS - thanks for the thread. It’s a great read and I wish you the best getting your car sorted. |
Yikes Julian! Quite a set of events, but glad to hear the car ran well and that you seem to be taking the bad stuff in stride. Extra points for the duct tape repair, proving that in the face of disaster you kept your sense of humor and got home in one piece. Best of luck with the repairs and new engine project!
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Was great to meet you Julian + devastating to hear (and then see) the outcome of the corner we should probably dub “The Kissing Spot”.
re: the M1 cams (or 964 cams) — it’s not that they are specifically for CIS, it’s that CIS doesn’t tolerate much overlap (if any) as it causes reverb on the sensor plate and thus metering issues. Without CIS in the picture you’re able to pick from more aggressive cams, but there isn’t an inherent downside to the M1’s, nor a net benefit to more aggressive cams. Depends on where you want the powerband to be. |
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