Stub axle issue

[Funracer]

Reposting this from my Engine Drop thread for more exposure. I will post a picture later today of the problem site:

So I was getting excited because my car has been out of commission for 11 months. Engine is now back in the car and running great on the lift. The very last thing to do before taking it out for her first drive in nearly a year was install my new axles and CV joints. Got the drivers side in easy. Passenger side in, 11 bolts in only one to go. Big car show Sunday here we come!!

And then this happened. My last new bolt with new schoor washer and moon plate attached would only thread in about half way. Tried to turn the wheel for better access, wheel will not turn. Loosened the other five for wiggle room, no luck. Took all bolts out and removed the axle again. Wheel locked like the brakes are on. See if you can tell what happened from this picture. These are the axle mounting bolts I took out 11 months ago. I always keep old stuff at least til the new stuff goes in:



The tip of one of the old bolts sheared off inside the threaded stub axle hole when I took them out in January. Now its jammed against something on the wheel side of the axle so the wheel won’t turn.

I’m thinking car show is out.

Any ideas on how to get that piece out without taking off the stub axle nut?

[Dpmulvan]

That bolt is jammed up against the inside of your trailing arm, steel on aluminum not good. Hard to say without pics but your gonna have to remove stub axle to get broken piece out with engine in car.

[brighton911]

Piece of cake to remove the stub axle, it's just an 8 mm bolt holding it in. Remove bolt & slide stub out.

[Matt Monson]

Originally Posted by brighton911

Piece of cake to remove the stub axle, it's just an 8 mm bolt holding it in. Remove bolt & slide stub out.

It’s wheel side, not gearbox side.

[Dpmulvan]

Always skip around when tightening and loosening bolts around a perimeter. I guarantee that broken bolt was last one loosened at some point.

[Arlo911]

OK I might be missing something, but can't you loosen the castellated nut that holds the axle/stub? More pics would help.

[Dpmulvan]

He needs to remove the entire hub assembly to press out the stub axle and repair or replace.

[Funracer]

My guess I need to move the caliper, take off the axle nut, remove the rotor and then see where we are.

Any suggestions appreciated.

[Jim2]

You simply undo the axle nut and your stub will slide out. No need to remove the caliper. Generally you want the wheel on the car with the weight of the car bearing on the tire in order to hold the stub while you untorque the big nut.

It sounds like you replaces axles or CVs. Beware that bolts ever so slightly longer will collide with the trailing arm.

In my case it was an odd combination of parts and I elected make a cutter and remove a small bit of interfering aluminum.

[VFR750]

The axle is not part of the bearing.

Undo the castle nut and hit the end of the axle with a rubber mallet. It will pop out.

I just did this Monday.

The only thing holding it in is rust.

There is a spline but it is not an interference fit.

[Funracer]

Thanks guys! Wish I could get to it tomorrow but I promised the wife I would put up Christmas lights. So Monday is it. I will update my findings.

Gooo Dolphins

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by VFR750

The axle is not part of the bearing.

Undo the castle nut and hit the end of the axle with a rubber mallet. It will pop out.

I just did this Monday.

The only thing holding it in is rust.

There is a spline but it is not an interference fit.

Much easier than I thought it would be. I thought there would be more disassembly involved. Broke the castellated nut loose with an impact gun. Pushed the stub axle out backwards with my finger.




The broken piece came right out, no damage to the threads. You can see a bit of scraping on the trailing arm.



All parts reinstalled and bolts torqued. Used an extension on my torque wrench to get 220 ft lbs.

Thanks to all for the help!

[Funracer]

Originally Posted by Jim2

Beware that bolts ever so slightly longer will collide with the trailing arm.

While I had the stub out I bolted up the CV axle to it with my longer bolts to account for the moon plates. I believe they are 55mm. I used the original length 50mm on the trans side. This picture shows them hand tight. No worries about them being too long.

[Matt Monson]

Nice. I love when “oh shyte” incidents end easily.