Project Mickey Mouse - Build thread of 79 SC I bought on eBay

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by Focker

OK - a little bit of 3 steps forward, 1 stumble back.

WIRING - The bane of my existence.

I figured out my intermittent issue with headlights not working. I have the Adapt fuse panel with integrated headlight relays. Since I was still working through a bunch of the wiring, I hadn't fully mounted it yet. Turns out, the panel must be grounded for the relays to work. DUUURRRRR.

So, headlights, running lights and turn signals are all functional. YAY! Issue I'm having now is push forward on the turn signal stalk is low beam, and "normal" position is high beams.

I checked the wiring on the fuse panel and that checks out. I confirmed the wiring on the H4 bulb to all the pictures posted on this great website, that's all good.

I even checked the diagnostic lights on the fuse panel confirming that low beam is low, high beam is high, so I assume my issue is at the headlight wiring switch?


DRIVETRAIN

Next issue is that I bought 4 new Loebro CV boots, some fancy 12pt. CV bolts from Belmetric and nordlock washers, aka the Jonny042 special. I was extra diligent and made sure I ordered the 55mm bolts to compensate for the Nordlocks.

WELL SON OF A B*TCH, the Loebro makes this a NO GO. Loebro boots have a *****ty stamped flange, making all my Jonny042's too long.

Any thoughts on running the OEM thick flange with the boot removed then the Loebro boot over that? It would get me the perfect thickness to bolt ratio.

Thanks!!

Ryan

So the new boots don't have the plate built into them? Can you sent that s%#%$@ back where it came from?

I fully realize how frustrating that is. Yet another problem with the race to the bottom for parts suppliers.

I just checked the Pelican site and see pics of a crappy boot with the thin tin plate only. Gross.

When you say "too long" I'm nut sure the extra length would be an issue although you'd have to check.

Is it possible to steal the plates from your old boots? (EDIT - you asked. I say yes it's worth looking at.)

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by Focker

Any thoughts on running the OEM thick flange with the boot removed then the Loebro boot over that? It would get me the perfect thickness to bolt ratio.


Ryan

I think this possibly - pics would help.

Or, the moon plates are probably only 3mm but likely enough to avoid issues with clearance on the bolts.

[Focker]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

I think this possibly - pics would help.

Or, the moon plates are probably only 3mm but likely enough to avoid issues with clearance on the bolts.

I just checked and it won't work.

The whole joke is that instead of ordering the cheaper Empi brand, I bought the GKN/Loebro. Looking at pictures, the Empi have a think flange and the GKN have this stamped tin BS.

I'm thinking I might just return the GKN. Now that the border is open, its easier to get parts.

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by Focker

I just checked and it won't work.

The whole joke is that instead of ordering the cheaper Empi brand, I bought the GKN/Loebro. Looking at pictures, the Empi have a think flange and the GKN have this stamped tin BS.

I'm thinking I might just return the GKN. Now that the border is open, its easier to get parts.

Come to think of it I think I used the EMPI. However thay may be NLA according to Pelican?

I have a whole load of stuff on the US side of the border waiting for April 1st!!

[Focker]

Looks like only ECS has the empi boots and I've had some issues with them in the past.

I think I'll get the moon plates

[Focker]

Well, got super fortunate that there is a local air-cooled VW parts supplier that had moon plates in stock.

I think between Nordlocks and moon plates, I should be in good shape. Might need to shave a bit off the outside CV bolts, but will cross that bridge when I get there.

Interesting thing about my CV joints, is that 2 of the joint have a build date of 1980 and 2 have 1978.

According to my manual, the car was a late 78 build with a 79 model year. I'm guessing the previous owner destroyed an axle at some point

[Focker]

Just thought I'd share that I'm having a real down moment right now.

A few weeks ago I tried to fire the engine and it just didn't want to go. Float levels were perfect, fuel pressure great, etc. It would cough and try to go, but just not get there.

I realized that in my impatience, that I didn't clean out the carbs that were sitting for quite some time (used set of 46mm PMO).

I got a rebuild kit from PMO, diligently cleaned everything and reassembled.

Here's where my impatience gets the better of me again.... I didn't recheck the float height. I guess the new needles and seats are at a different height, or I just miss counted the shims, I don't know, but when I tried to start it again, the floats overfilled and then the worst possible thing happened, it tried to compress fuel.

F*CK.

I took a breath, pulled the plugs and cleared the cylinders. Next I went about resetting the float height using a straight edge.

No more flooding, but still no joy on starting, just some coughing. At this point, no weird noises, but then I guess I overheated my new IMI and I got the ZIINGGG!!! of a starter not engaging.

GREAT. I take a closer look at the float level sight glass and see they are high too. I guess I can't figure out how to use a ruler either. This was all last weekend.

Fast forward to April 2. I pull the carbs apart again and remeasure the float height with my digital calipers. Looks like they were previously closer to 9 or 10mm instead of 12mm. Reinstall.

Next, I pull the starter and bench test it and it looks like the solenoid and everything works. So, I reinstall and then rotate the engine by hand to see if maybe there is a sad spot on the starter ring.

Success...briefly. The starter catches then pulls an Antonio Brown and walks off the field with a ZIIINGGG!!!!!

OK, calm down. Maybe the reason why it wouldn't start before is the plugs are fouled. I pull all 6 lower plugs (because thats way easier than the uppers) and the plugs are all sooty. With no compression, I rotate the motor by hand then reengage the starter.

The starter happily spins the motor, but with a rhythmic thumping that has never been there before. I'm guessing that the few zings of the starter have damaged the starter ring. At this point though, that is only a guess. In the back of my mind though I think to that one aborted attempted start where it had a flooded cylinder and now my mind has gone to a very, very dark place.

Honestly, feeling super discouraged at this point and not sure what to do next. Admit defeat and call in an expert to finish it off? Persevere? Run away to Montana?

I'm guessing a lot of the amateurs get to this point where you dread someone asking you how the car is coming along. I think I just need a break, but also a bit of advice as to what to do next.

Realistically, this feels like a bit of a low point in the build and I don't know what to do. Hoping some of the more experiences guys will chime in.

Thanks,

Ryan
DIY Porsche Sad Club President

[SiracHaile]

I’ve been there before so I know how it feels. But it’s nothing time and/or money can’t fix. I’d suggest doing a leak down test. A tester is quite inexpensive and would either confirm your worries or give you some relief. Keep at it and hope for the best.

[Jonny042]

Bummer. I'm typing on my phone but wanted to chime I real quick - no specific advice other than to keep forging ahead. Take a break to regroup and reenergize. But don't despair!

[Mr Beau]

Compression tester might be more revealing than a leak down if you're worried about a bent rod... Super sucky.
Ignition timing is 100% correct? Ether and some gasoline in a squeeze bottle should get it fired easily enough if you're brave--you could disable fuel pump which would take carb fueling out of the equation.

[ADDvanced]

Leakdown test is always better than compression test imho. Get an OTC leak down tester and report back with what you find.

I did mine with a HF one and sold it and immediately bought an OTC leak down tester, so much better.

https://youtu.be/PUn1QOK5vDg

[Focker]

Does the starter have enough power to bend a rod?

I'll grab a timing light to confirm ignition timing, it's an XDi setup that I am using.

So far, it's the starter and cranking noise that has me concerned. I suppose I should pull the starter and rotate the motor by hand so I can inspect the starter ring? I'm guessing it could be chewed up which is causing the strange noise while cranking now.

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by Focker

Does the starter have enough power to bend a rod?

I'll grab a timing light to confirm ignition timing, it's an XDi setup that I am using.

So far, it's the starter and cranking noise that has me concerned. I suppose I should pull the starter and rotate the motor by hand so I can inspect the starter ring? I'm guessing it could be chewed up which is causing the strange noise while cranking now.

I don't think you need to be worried a bent rod. And now you are paranoid and hearing things that maybe don't exist.

Timing, and presence of good strong spark are the most important things right now.

Just checking - you haven't attempted to power the ignition from the alternator on the engine, have you? IMO you should have a separate power wire from the battery to the spark supply and not use the constant power from the alternator via the starter. Too much voltage drop during cranking.

Keep at it!

[Jonny042]

And don't get down or discouraged. It is what it is, and you are doing your best, which is all you can do.

This advice may seem strange but I firmly believe you should take pleasure in the the setbacks as they are happening. It's totally your choice if you do, or don't, let this stuff bother you or just view it as part of the process, which is something you are doing for your own gratification. You'll get to the other side of this. Maybe today, maybe next month, who knows.

Step back a few steps and realize plenty of people would trade one or two vital organs to have your problems! (An awesome 911 that isn't starting!!!!)

[Focker]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

I don't think you need to be worried a bent rod. And now you are paranoid and hearing things that maybe don't exist.

Timing, and presence of good strong spark are the most important things right now.

Just checking - you haven't attempted to power the ignition from the alternator on the engine, have you? IMO you should have a separate power wire from the battery to the spark supply and not use the constant power from the alternator via the starter. Too much voltage drop during cranking.

Keep at it!

That is really interesting.

The power for my coils is coming from the rear fuse panel. I used the power source that would have been for the rear wiper I believe. I was trying to keep the wiring as clean as possible, but maybe I should run a 14GA wire direct from the battery or starter connection?

[Alan L]

I am trying to think what you could check, to ease your mind.
Right now I dunno.
BUT - there are plenty here who could put their hand up to hydraulicing a motor. If that is what has happened. Have done it myself - CIS is not immune from it also. What I can say, is it seems rare that real damage is done. There are some if's and but's to that, but there is a good possibility things are OK.
You seem to be saying it is like the engine is cranking over on a tight spot - free/tight/free.
Turning by hand may help explain what is going on. If it is even and free all round, then the issue may be starter related. Power source, connections etc.
Make sure it is turning free first.
Alan

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by Focker

That is really interesting.

The power for my coils is coming from the rear fuse panel. I used the power source that would have been for the rear wiper I believe. I was trying to keep the wiring as clean as possible, but maybe I should run a 14GA wire direct from the battery or starter connection?

There can be a lot of voltage drop during cranking - the battery voltage may drop quite a bit and this will be exacerbated by the voltage drop on the very long battery cable to the starter from the battery. It's possible that the voltage at the rear fuse panel is several volts less than 12V during cranking.

The factory powered the CDI with a red wire direct from the front fuse panel, so that should be available for your use. It's worth a try at least.

Not 100% sure it's the issue but it's very possible and worth checking.

[Solamar]

Run away to Montana. Quick!

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by Jonny042

And don't get down or discouraged. It is what it is, and you are doing your best, which is all you can do.

This advice may seem strange but I firmly believe you should take pleasure in the the setbacks as they are happening. It's totally your choice if you do, or don't, let this stuff bother you or just view it as part of the process, which is something you are doing for your own gratification. You'll get to the other side of this. Maybe today, maybe next month, who knows.

Step back a few steps and realize plenty of people would trade one or two vital organs to have your problems! (An awesome 911 that isn't starting!!!!)

I do also recommend applying alcohol to these sorts of wounds

[Mr Beau]

How would a leakdown tester detect a bent rod?

Originally Posted by ADDvanced

Leakdown test is always better than compression test imho. Get an OTC leak down tester and report back with what you find.

I did mine with a HF one and sold it and immediately bought an OTC leak down tester, so much better.

https://youtu.be/PUn1QOK5vDg