Targa80’s classic retrofit electrocool installation questions and comments

[targa80]

There are several threads on the Classic Retrofit A/C upgrade that I have read including the 50 plus page introduction by Classic Retrofit. They are very informative and will help with my own DIY installation. I decided to go all in and will do the 175 amp alternator and the windshield washer relocation kit along with the full electrocooler install. I live in Florida and as noted in the other threads we have high temps and high humidity.

There have been discussions on other threads that a second condenser and fan might be needed to lower the vent temps during the summer months when these two conditions occur. My question is as follows:

Has anyone considered using the original front condenser as the second condenser?
Granted, it was an r12 unit and has compression fittings instead of the r134a o-ring fittings. The location of this condenser is very close to the location of the new condenser in the left front fender wheel well and can be connected in series easily. It already has the fan in the frunk that draws fresh air and distributes it over the condenser. Will this be a positive or negative addition to the cooling capacity of the system. A New second condenser is not in my plan as of today. That may change with time and any negative feedback I receive on the front condenser idea.

Please provide your comments on my thoughts.

As it stand right now I will just go with the new system as designed except I will move the dryer into the smugglers box instead of behind the condenser.

I am sure I will have more questions and comments as I move forward with this great upgrade project.

[targa80]

I purchased this kit as a DIY’er and will not be hiring someone with knowledge on how to install it. I did the inventory of the boxes I received and it looks like all the major parts and piece parts in baggies are there. An actual inventory list with each piece parts in the bags would be desirable.

The compressor does not come with the frame assembled and the manual does not provide any info on assembling the compressor frame. With that said, I will try to document what it takes to assemble each of the major parts. It’s just like a jig saw puzzle it only fits one way, maybe! So, I opened the main bag of piece parts. I guess many of these parts will be used to assemble the compressor frame.



The two sides mount to the compressor using the three long bolts, three threaded extensions, three short bolts and twelve plastic washers.






The ECU mounting bracket is mounted on the top with four of the small screws and it can mount several ways so at some point I may have to change its mounting direction.





There is a service bulletin that says to remove a power relay and install a red terminal post. The bulletin showed the position of a small black relay which I have and needs to stay along with the new red connector post. The red contact terminal mounts with two screws that I don’t have and the lower screw hole on the plate butts up against the compressor so the screw would need to be short to not hit the compressor housing. Need to figure that out as I move along.



I have to mount the ECU to the compressor frame but I don’t have long screws the ones I have are too short. Need to figure which screws are used to mount the ECU.



The top of the frame mounts with four screws, four plastic washers and four lock nuts.



The remaining two screws and plastic washers hold the two flat pieces of metal under the top plate. I believe these are used to clamp and secure the compressor assembly into the smugglers box.



All of the screws are slightly loose so everything can fit together before tightening.

[targa80]

After the assembly of the compressor frame I have two small screws, some foam felt, a power relay, the red contact, the ECU and the 80 amp inline fuse. None of the other bags with cables in them have any additional screw hardware to mount the ECU or the red contact terminal.

[latunabernie]

Looking forward on fallowing your progress.
I am installing his kit in a 1970 911.
I purchased a extra condenser due 100+ degrees in my area.
I didn't want to have the unit evacuated & recharged if I need the extra condenser.
If you use your existing condenser, make sure it's clean inside and doesn't leak.
I want my wife to tell me to lower the A/C it's to cold.
Your pictures look great.

Bernie

[Jonny H]

Hi Pat, thanks for posting and documenting. We have fairly recently revised the kits in terms of how we pack them. This is for a number of reasons:

1) Costs. Parts costs have risen and we did not want to increase the cost of the kit, so we had to take some cost out of assembly. This is why the compressor module now comes in kit form. Our instruction manual is undergoing a re-edit which will include the assembly of the compressor module. The parts only go together one way and you are doing great.

2) Environment. We now ship in a modular cardboard packages rather than use styrene inserts. Although this sounds simple enough, it meant a redesign of all the packaging so that the boxes fit like a jigsaw to provide enough support to survive travelling. The knock on effect was that it also affected all lists of materials and which boxes they get packed in.

3) Easier Packing. We separated out the parts that 'characterise' a LHD and RHD kit. This means that only one internal box dictates whether a kit is LHD or RHD. This means we don't have to second guess demand for either type.

Another thing is that we have finally found a suitable contact relay which solves the parasitic draw (battery drain) caused by these compressors. Our first systems used a trailer relay but it was prone to contact arcing hence the service bulletin and the swap to the red post. This new contact relay we are providing with all kits from here forward but the metal 'tab' on the compressor module is still drilled for the red post. The manual does explain how to wire the new relay but the tab would need a couple of holes drilling to mount instead of the post - this is the best thing to do. The service bulletin is now out of date so I will take it down.

The ECU mount screws should be M6 x 20mm button head. Please let me know if they are missing but perhaps they are swapped with your clamp screws?

[timmy2]

Johnny,
Don’t take down the service bulletin for the older systems!
Mine is still in a box and is a couple of years old...
Hoping to have some time to install this spring.

[targa80]

Originally Posted by Jonny H

Hi Pat, thanks for posting and documenting. We have fairly recently revised the kits in terms of how we pack them. This is for a number of reasons:
....

Another thing is that we have finally found a suitable contact relay which solves the parasitic draw (battery drain) caused by these compressors.

The ECU mount screws should be M6 x 20mm button head. Please let me know if they are missing but perhaps they are swapped with your clamp screws?

Thanks for clarifying the change in the way the systems are shipped. I can work with the kit as supplied.

I will tap the holes for the new contact relay and use the two remaining screws. I have used all six of the supplied M6 screws and they were all the same size. Now that I know that I need two M6 20mm button heads I can pick them up at my local hardware store. I did read in the manual where the foam strip is used.

[TrickySF]

Here are a few photos that Jonny sent me when I had the same questions. Hope they help.

[targa80]

TrickySF,

Your images do not show up on the thread and the link in the email is not found by pelican

[TrickySF]

Did not send photos that were downloaded. Will try again.

[TrickySF]

One more try for photos:

[TrickySF]

[targa80]

Two steps forward and one step back. I could not find the two M6 20mm screws to hold down the ECU. Went to HD and purchased two screws and flat washers and installed the ECU.



The manual indicated that the roll of sticky rubber insulation is used to isolate the compressor frame from the smugglers box mounting location. I cut the strips and added them to the top frame piece and the two lower clamping pieces. The white paper is removed before installing in smuggler box.

[TrickySF]

Tried several times to send photos. They download, show on reply and then don't appear when sent. I will email them to you.

[dtwa]

Here are some pics from my install this summer. The compressor mount hardware was quite the puzzle. Luckily there are install photos scattered on the forums. --Dave

[targa80]

Originally Posted by dtwa

Here are some pics from my install this summer. The compressor mount hardware was quite the puzzle. Luckily there are install photos scattered on the forums. --Dave

Dave, thanks for the photos,

Classic Retrofit shipped me an updated disconnect relay along with the red terminal contact.



The bent side plate on the ECU plate has the two M6 holes that the red terminal connector fits into. Unfortunately the new disconnect relay mounting bracket uses M4 screws and two new holes would need to be drilled. The alternative is to file the mounting bracket to accept the M6 screw then only one new hole would need to be drilled. Also, I don’t like the location of the relay and might locate it on the inside wall of the smugglers box along with the dryer.



The mounting bracket can be moved to rotate the relay so the contacts are not right up against the smugglers box wall. Below are two other options if I want to keep the relay on the unit and not use the red terminal contact.

[dtwa]

If you install the compressor as I did, those relay terminals will be in the left rear of the smuggler’s box, near the steering column. There might be enough space there for the terminals as oriented in your first image of the compressor with the relay attached. There should be boots on both terminals so as long a there is a few mm of clearance, it will likely be fine. —Dave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TrickySF]

Another try at photos:

[targa80]

Originally Posted by dtwa

If you install the compressor as I did, those relay terminals will be in the left rear of the smuggler’s box, near the steering column. There might be enough space there for the terminals as oriented in your first image of the compressor with the relay attached. There should be boots on both terminals so as long a there is a few mm of clearance, it will likely be fine. —Dave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually like the location in the last two pictures it keeps the terminal posts inside and below the two ECU connectors.

[targa80]

Well I drilled and tapped a new M6 hole and filed the relay support bracket openings to accommodate the M6 screw.



Mounted the relay to the frame with two M6 14mm screws but needed to cut the bottom screw down so it did not hit the compressor frame. I think this is the best solution for mounting this new relay.