Another Brake - caliper rotor pads

[JeremyD]

Ok - got some rebuilt calipers (Sorry, don't have the time to do a rebuild) and some new rotors (zimmerman)and pads (mintex). May as well change them all out while I am in there. I have a caliper that is sticking on the passenger side.

Anything else I need to change these all out? I inspected the brake lines - and they look virtually new.

How difficult are the rotors to get off?

Any torque settings that are critical?

The car is a 1987 Porsche Cab - 47,000 miles and I see no record of the brakes being touched.

Any words of wisdom?

[masraum]

The rotor's are pretty easy to get off. The brake lines could be a pain, maybe, maybe not.

Other things that you MIGHT change would be the bearings, seals, and pad sensors.

[Crachian]

You will want to replace the brake pad sensors and may as well do the retaining springs/clips and pins.

Check the bleed nipples on the rebuilds and replace if not perfect. This will save you many headaches later. I installed speedbleeders (see pic) and like them.

The hoses may look new on the outside, but if the brakes have never been touched, replace the hoses. They're cheap.

Torque the caliper mounting bolts properly and don't overtighten the bleed nipple or brake line fittings. Use an 11mm flare nut wrench.

Keep grease off the rotors and pads. A grease injection needle works great to repack the wheel bearings.

Verify that the pistons are at 20 degrees off rotor tangent as per 101 projects or Bentley.



Have fun.

[thabaer]

I've only seen the sensors used on 996tt calipers, they should never need replacing unless they've touched the rotor due to pad wear and the wire is abraded or cut. If they're only scratched you can still use them and the only problem would be a false pad wear warning if the wire breaks.

[juanbenae]

you may want to try a set of the speed bleeders so you dont need a pumping helper.

[JeremyD]

Speed bleeders work that well huh?

[juanbenae]

yeah, i was able to bleed my brakes with out yelling at my girlfriend once. "PUMP SLOWER!" "WHEN I SAY PUMP AND HOLD I MEAN....." "THE CAR IS ON JACKS DONT GET OUT LIKE A BULL IN A CHINA SHOP AND SLAM THE DOOR!"

they have lead to the most peaceful brake work ever...

[APKhaos]

Two schools of thought exist on one-man brake bleeding:
- the speed bleeder guys
- the Motive Power Bleeder guys
Do a search on each to get the drift. FWIW, I'm a Power Bleeder zealot.

Definitely change your rubber brake lines with stock rubber parts. If they are original, they are tired and probably occluded.

Rotors are easy, provided you remember two things:
- the easiest way to get the front axle grease cap off is to drive it off with a drift. Firm blows, moving the hub around 30 degrees every time.
- the rear rotors will not come off if your emergency brake is applied.

A PCA bud struggled for several hours on these two points last weekend, without success. The look on his face when I release the e brake and lifted the rear rotors off was priceless.

One final point. When everything is reassembled, install your OLD, WORN brake pads for the bleeding process. Bleed the brakes thoroughly, tapping each caliper with a rubber mallet as you bleed[buy a Power Bleeder first - you'll love it]. When you are done bleeding [twice], remove the old pads and carefully press the pistons back until you can JUST slide the new pads in. Do this, and your chances of having a high, hard pedal will be vastly improved.

You will be amazed how much more effective your brakes are after this work!

[JeremyD]

I don't really want to take the bearing off - no experience with it. Do I have to - or just take off the grease cap?

I used the power bleeder on my alfa romeo - too bad I still don't have it. Thanks for the tips, I very much appreciate it!

[juanbenae]

you have to remove the bearing assembly to get the rotors off. its not a bad deal, just follow the retorgue method for the bearings. i have found that after you get it back together to recheck the wheel bearing play/slop after a bit of driving, say 30 miles. this gives them a chance to seat and determine if you have gotten them tight enough on the 1st try. dont over tighten on the 1st try either.

i have a power bleeder and it works fine but i feel better with the peddal pump and the speed bleeders are great for this. for $8 a corner the bleeder are $ well spent. cheaper than my power bleeder kit by about 10 bucks.

[JeremyD]

So - I should really replace the lines too if I have everything apart? Even for a 47,000 mile car?

[APKhaos]

Its age - not miles. They are cheap, and its just the flexible lines. You have everything opened up to get to them. Easy peasy.

[marcesq]

Originally posted by Jeremy964
So - I should really replace the lines too if I have everything apart? Even for a 47,000 mile car?

My backyard mechanic education says 12 years MAX on rubber brake lines . . . . a whole lot less if you drive a Toronado

[JeremyD]

Then that's what I'll do - Thanks so much for the input - glad I asked first!