Lisle tool not working for me..Why?!
 

Just bought this tool and it is not working for me...is there something more than simply pushing it in?

Trying the remove my side mirror from car without having to cut wires.

85 911

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1658588441.png

Push the wire and contact pin in firmly from the back side with your fingers, insert the tool and rock it slightly back and forth in a circular motion then pull the wire and contact pin out with a gentle tug.
Repeat as needed. You are trying to flatten the latches on the contact.

I had the same issue when I was taking the connector out using that tool.
Bought this instead and worked great.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-application-tooling/305183/15640

here's what you are trying to push in.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1658593488.jpg

I bought a cheap one on Amazon. It lasted about half way through the job. Sent it back for a return the the next one just finished before it broke.

They are very finicky but take your time and try not to bend it.

The Lisle tool alone did not work for me. I pulled the correct size hollow metal insert off of the tool, then pushed the hollow metal piece over the connector with a pair of needle nose pliers. I then used a small diameter Allen wrench to essentially push the connector out through the hollow metal insert. This worked great.

if you find in your pen collection the ink tube made out of copper ..i used that for many years it is an exact diameter to remove the pins-connectors

Ivan

going to try it

I was thinking the same thing...looking for one..no luck finding one

bent the tool
 

i tried to take the tube off the tool and it bent, soft as aluminum foil.. i can still get it around the terminal...but still no luck

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1658606334.jpg

The key to my method is pushing rather than pulling the connector. It will obviously only work if the tube is off the tool. The end that you’re not inserting doesn’t need to be pretty - it just needs to be open enough so that you can get a small Allen wrench through in order to push the connector out.

Hmm. Never seen a tool exactly like that lisle tool. Always used the disposable plastic ones for extracting pins...like these:

https://dmctools.com/oscar/catalogue/category/dmc-category/installing-removal-tools_73/

Although they do break, they are pretty inexpensive and seemed to work better than similar metal ones for me. generally, you must be very, very gentle so as not to ruin the pin connector anyways. If you are pushing hard, you are doing it wrong. You slide it over the wire on the back of the connector and gently push it in while slightly rotating it. If you hit much resistance, you pull back and try again. You do not pull on the wire until you believe you have disengaged the retainers on the pins, otherwise, they dig in and keep the tool from sliding over them.

I use these when the Lisle tool won’t work.
Eclipse CE-0275 5 Piece Pin Remover Set https://a.co/d/9xEVFM7

i ordered these
 

already wasted $17 on lisle tool. hopefully this workshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1658620689.jpg

All of those tools look like they would be the same as the first one as they will not open to not slide over the wire from the back like the cheap, flexible plastic ones that they usually include with connectors (at least when you are working on aircraft).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1658623401.JPG

I wasted time, energy, effort and money on two tools, including the same Lisle. Frustrating.

The Digikey version is the right tool for the job. It worked like a charm straight away.

Some connectors are depinned by opening the shell (eg the 14 pin engine harness connector)..

Some connectors are depinned from the rear. Usually it's pretty obvious which ones these are; no tool can be inserted at the front as there's only a blank face with the connector protruding from it.

Others, like this one appears to be, are depinned from the the front. These, you typically relieve the pressure on the latching system (that holds the pin in the connector) by pushing the wire/connector forward in the seat, then the tool goes over the pin and depresses the latch. Then the pin and tool can be pushed through into the connector block, the wire pulled out of the tool and the tool pulled back through.

Gently tweak the latch back into shape if necessary, re-insert the terminal until it clicks (or just won't go any deeper, sometimes you can't feel it lock) and just tug it gently to check that it did lock (I had an intermittent no-start once caused by a crank pickup lead with a Deutsche female terminal that wouldn't actually lock into the shell and just pushed back as you made the connection). Should be good.

Sometimes it helps a lot to have a connector and a terminal to peer at closely before you start.

Yup, I spent a lot of reading on this a few months back and I was getting frustrated. Came across a thread on the other forum that said "I have a pin remover from AMP, part number 305183".

googled the part number and the ordered the one from digikey....worked like a charm.

Huh, while the Lisle tool gave me a bit of difficulty I was able to safely de-pin every connection. Like others said it was a matter of pushing and pulling on the wire while pressing the tool in. Not fun, but doable.

I hadn't seen that digikey one before, I like that a lot.

These are garbage. I threw mine away after trying in vain to use them on a VW/audi connector.
For what it's worth, the round tools in this set are just insulated wire ferrules.

Right, junk..BUT!
 

1 did work! But broke from its handle first time using it.