So the good news is, it's not wedged up against the pulley, bad news is I can't get this sucker free. 🤣


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661019213.jpg

Alrighty. Checked the local homie depot and several of the local parts stores (O'Riley, Pep Boys ...), and called 4 Porsche dealerships in the area. The bad news is, nowhere had what I needed. The good news is one of the parts departments was able to give me the part number for the nut one size up from what I bought. The alternator from an 82 apparently uses a 17x1.5 which would explain why the one I bought was just slightly too small.

Anyway, quick search and FCP Euro has them in stock and I've ordered one with expedited shipping. Fingers crossed it gets here on time. :/

In the meantime I'll focus on trying to realign the door windows and buttoning up some other things that need my attention.

Thanks again everyone for your help and insight, it's greatly appreciated.

#tryingtostaypositive

IMHO you really need to get that nut out - don’t run the engine with it in place.

Agree - no start until removed. If a magnet (FLAPS will have a magnet on the end of a malleable wire - lots of uses) won't do it, I'd see if I could pry, tap, or wedge the fan deeper onto its shaft. When it arrives, you could use your new nut and some ingenuity to do that. Even a little movement of the fan farther onto its shaft ought to make fishing that nut out possible if if was balky.

I'm sitting over here stewing. Pissed at the car, but really pissed at myself for making this series of dumb mistakes one after another.

Once I calm down and focus a bit I'm going to pull the fan etc back out and see if I can get to it that way. Should go faster the second time around right?

This is The key to Porsche repair.

Unlike any other car I've worked on Pcars require deliberation and a quality work plan. Bodging won't do. "Slow and methodical is the only way." Lao Tzu of Porsche Repair....

SUCCESS!!! muahahahaha

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661033751.jpg

Well done.

With regards to walking away, I've walked away from my car for weeks before. I've also spent multiple consecutive 12-16 hour days in the garage. It's all about staying in the right headspace.
Calm. Clear. Focused.

When I was younger, I played a lot more metal when I worked on cars. These days, I play 80s rap & hiphop, Florence + the Machine, Mazzy Star, Duffy, Fiona Apple, etc. Nothing that elevates my pulse. Just out there vibin helps keep me focused and calm.

Woohoo!!! Man, FCP Euro doesn't mess around. Ordered this Sunday and it showed up this morning. Looks like I'll be getting everything buttoned up tonight.

Feeling ambitious, so I may swap in the new turn signal stalk too. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661286398.jpg

Hugh sigh of relief. Question for everyone, how tight should the belt be? It's not loose, but there is some play in it. Want to make sure I'm not messing this up.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RE8MBoLw2yftM25N6

If it doesnt slip its ok, too tight and you are replacing your alternator bearings.
Once that belt is run in you may need to move a shim outside the pulley.

Thanks.

Looks about right to me.
As previously stated, too tight is a bad thing. If it's not slipping/screaming, send it.

Took her out for a spin around the neighborhood last night, definitely sounds better and feels like she's running smoother to (but there's a good chance that's all in my head). But she's definitely screaming under load. From a stop the belt squeal is LOUD, but once moving it goes away. I'm going to start by moving one of the shims in the rear to the front and try again. So close to having this sorted out.

Felt awesome to get to drive her again though.

When static, belt deflection should be around 3/8"
To me, it looks from the video that it is a little excessive.

Concur. That is a bit too loose.

Some people who race the air cooled 911s complain that they throw their fan belts. No one has quantified this, but it is real enough when it happens. My take is that this comes from relatively high RPMs (~7,000) and a decision to be one shim loose rather than one shim tight. Happened to my SC engine after a professional rebuild. I moved a shim, hasn't happened again. But it has led some to switch to a serpentine belt system.

Wouldn't a loose belt be more apt to make noise from slipping than a tight belt would?

Agreed. Once I got on the road and was able to test under load the squealing woke the entire neighborhood. Will be working through the process of moving shims and retesting until I can get it right. I also have a new belt that I'm going to put on just in case.

DONT DROP THE NUT.
Sorry didnt mean to yell!

I been there

Oh, believe me, my brain is yelling the same thing. hahaha But, at this point, I've had it all apart and back together so many times I could probably do it with my eyes closed.

This would be a fun contest at a show/rallye.

Just dipped out to the garage to play with Ginger for a minute. <Don't tell my boss> ��

As I was moving a shim to the front of the pulley I noticed that the belt was still pretty loose. So I moved the shim back and swapped on a new belt. When I held the new belt up to the one that had been on the car I noticed that the original one was about a quarter of an inch longer than the replacement. I'm guessing the one that had been on the car was either the wrong size or had gotten messed up because of the mess that was the pulley and fan.

Anyway, just took her for a quick rip and man does she sound a million times better.

Time to order another new belt for a spare, once you get enough for free shipping.

Already in my cart. :D

On to the next problem. :) I replaced my turn signal stalk last night because 1) every time I signaled right the high beams would come on, and 2) after completing turns the signal wouldn't cancel. Well all the lights are working correctly now, but they're still not canceling after the turn is complete. I have a Nardi steering wheel and hub adapter and I transferred the black plastic ring with the cancel tab over to the new hub but I'm starting to think I put it on incorrectly.

Does anyone happen to have a photo of the hub of a stock wheel showing exactly where the tab should be positioned? Is it supposed to be directly in line with the white tab that sticks out form the turn signal stalk?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/7796-sc-turn-signal-wont-cancel.html

Tab should be at 9 o'clock.

Perfect. Thanks.

Yup, that was 100% user error. When I installed the new wheel I clearly didn't pay attention to where the tab should be. Had it set at closer to 11 0'clock. All fixed. Now, what else can I fix before tomorrow morning? :D

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Believe me, it's on my list of things to do. I would love to try to tackle it myself, but truth be told, I'm a little hesitant. I don't want to **** it up. Maybe when I send the wheels out to be refinished and I have it up on jacks I can dive in and give it a go but I feel like this would be the type of job that a lift would be perfect for. She 100% is in need of an altitude adjustment though.

It's an epic PITA.
Specifically, the rear is an epic PITA. The front is cake and can be done faster than you can knock off all 4 wheels.

I have to replace my turn signal switch, lights go out when the turn signal cancels, i tweaked the contacts a coupe years ago and it was fine installed headlight relays at the same time. Now it needs another few hundred dollar tweak.Any difference between the porsche and the aftermarket ones beside the price?

Lowering the rear sucks hard- particularly if it’s never been adjusted before and you have to fight seizes nuts and years of grossness, etc…

It’s also probably something that should be done only when you have your wheels and rubber decided on and are ready to do any other work there like bushings, torsion bars, etc… not really a project that you want to have to repeat often.

That said, once you get it, it’s not hard to repeat, just messy and full of swear words.