Oil level gauge stuck?

[M5guy]

My oil level gauge seems to be stuck at 2/3 full scale, regardless of whether the ignition is on or off.

This started after I had just changed the weeping gasket on the oil level sensor. I did not have any trouble manipulating the sensor in and out, and of course, it is wired correctly.

Any thoughts?

[47silver]

Maybe hitting the oil level stick

[M5guy]

Tried that, no luck. Odd thing is that the gauge stays at 2/3 even if I disconnect the wires at the sensor. And I checked the sensor with a ohm meter and it shows continuity with resistance. Stumped.

[917_Langheck]

Since the meter isn't zeroing out when ignition is off, the issue is the meter.

You can remove the meter from the dash, note the wiring with photos, remove wires from the back and remove the meter half (the oil level and temperature meters are separate devices) to see if there is something catching in the movement.

[M5guy]

Ok, looks like I’ll be pulling the gauge. Odd coincidence though.

[fintstone]

Originally Posted by M5guy

My oil level gauge seems to be stuck at 2/3 full scale, regardless of whether the ignition is on or off.

This started after I had just changed the weeping gasket on the oil level sensor. I did not have any trouble manipulating the sensor in and out, and of course, it is wired correctly.

Any thoughts?

The ignition is off? Are you saying that the engine is turned off or the key is removed?

[M5guy]

Originally Posted by fintstone

The ignition is off? Are you saying that the engine is turned off or the key is removed?

Yes. Ignition off, key out, wires disconnected.

So this morning I tried an old Cessna trick and tapped on the gauge. It returned to zero. So I’ll be pulling the gauge.

[theiceman]

ok here is what happened....

when you were changing the sensor the gauge likely "pegged" to a position it is unnatural , and it did it very quickly jamming up the works.. i bet its fine after your tap.

[EC900]

I always question the accuracy of the gauges, especially these 45 yr old ones!
Finally figured out it was the loose wire connection at tank as the reason for the sporadic jumping oil level needle, and stuck on High too.
But noticed the oil level dash gauge will stick to the top (full) high level whenever I check oil dipstick (half way mark, engine running) but dash gauge later will go back to low side of normal level, just a bit below the red bar.
What would the dipstick be hitting inside the oil tank - the meter?

[doug petty]

I just replaced the oil tank sender, found a dip stick laying in there.

[M5guy]

Solved

A PO added these cheesy little faux faces to the gauges. One had displaced enough to interfere with the needle. All fixed now, and I did the gas gauge as well. Now I am going to take the stuff off the other gauges, but how hard is it to r&r the needles on the tach, Speedo, and clock?

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by EC900

I always question the accuracy of the gauges, especially these 45 yr old ones!
Finally figured out it was the loose wire connection at tank as the reason for the sporadic jumping oil level needle, and stuck on High too.
But noticed the oil level dash gauge will stick to the top (full) high level whenever I check oil dipstick (half way mark, engine running) but dash gauge later will go back to low side of normal level, just a bit below the red bar.
What would the dipstick be hitting inside the oil tank - the meter?

The oil gauge is only a rough indication to oil level. And it only is useful if you know how to read it properly. Just ignore it completely until the engine temperature is 185 or above. Better yet, 200 degrees or so. On level ground, let the engine idle for 60 seconds, and then check the dipstick. Between the lines is perfect.

You will see an increase in level on the dip stick and on the gauge if the engine is checked just after the thermostat opens and sends oil up front and if it is up to 210 or 220. The hotter oil expands enough to change the level.

When the engine is cold that oil gauge is to be ignored. And no if you are putting the dipstick down the little pipe, you are not touching the gauge float.

[917_Langheck]

Originally Posted by M5guy

Now I am going to take the stuff off the other gauges, but how hard is it to r&r the needles on the tach, Speedo, and clock?]

It's not for the faint of heart or depth of wallet should something go snap.

There is a video by Nico at Charlies Foreign Car Garage for removing the needle from the speedo. As I said, not for the those without a delicate touch and a steady pulse.

[M5guy]

Originally Posted by 917_Langheck

It's not for the faint of heart or depth of wallet should something go snap.

There is a video by Nico at Charlies Foreign Car Garage for removing the needle from the speedo. As I said, not for the those without a delicate touch and a steady pulse.

The more I look at it, the more I think the fake facades are not glued on. So I think on the Speedo/tac/clock I can remove the two tiny screws and lift the facade up just enough to make two cuts with small scissors from the edge to the center (like a slice of pie) and then slide the two pieces out from under the needle. I may change my mind though when I actually have it on my work bench.