Heel 'n toe for dummies...

[Efrain68912]

You can do one of two things:

1. clutch in
2. shift to neutral
3. clutch out
4. clutch in
5. select gear
6. blip gas
7. clutch out

or
1. clutch in
2. change gear
3. blip gas
4. clutch out

In my experience, doing it the first way requires less of a blip to raise the revs to where you want them.

Like others have said - its strange and awkward at first, and easier to do when going fast. After a while it becomes second nature.

[West]

I have always found these pedal technique's difficult to perform in my 911 due to the fact that the brake and clutch pedal's are at the same height, and the gas pedal is quite a bit lower. When I rebuilt my pedal assembly, I cut an inch off the arm behind the brake pedal and re-welded it. Now, not only is it easier to perform heal-toe techniques, but the biggest improvement was probably in my braking response time. Since it's quicker to just slide my top of my foot to the brake from the gas, (without picking up my foot and repositioning my heal on the floor), my braking distance has been reduced.

[911pcars]

1. clutch in
2. shift to neutral
3. clutch out
4. clutch in
5. select gear
6. blip gas
7. clutch out

or
1. clutch in
2. change gear
3. blip gas
4. clutch out

Not to beat this subject to death and no disrespect intended, but both methods described are the same except for motions 2, 3 and 4 in the first group which aren't accomplishing anything.

Without raising the engine speed between 3 and 4, the input shaft/clutch rotates at the same speed of the engine which is invariably lower in rpm as the output shaft in the next lower gear. It'll work in a gearbox w/synchromesh, but it's not doubleclutching. Try it on a non-synchro gearbox and see if the above methods work. Got a tractor handy?

Or try downshifting into 1st gear at 10 mph using the various methods described in this thread. 1st gear in a 915 gearbox closely approximates a non-synchro-assisted gear.

Sherwood

[Wil Ferch]

However, now you have a new problem....

Works great on the street, but the extra force when doing this on the track puts the original configuration more on an even plane ( since you're pushing *that* much harder on brake when on the track).

So... be careful out there !

---Wil Ferch

[island911]

West- there are quite a few places to adjust the height (throw) of the gas pedal. . .to bring it closer to the plane of the brake pedal (under load)

[West]

island 911 - tried that, but that didn't work for me. When I had the gas pedal adjusted all the back, my foot was uncomfortable; I wanted a more relaxed position. Now, I am tall - over 6 ft., and drive my car 90 miles a day 8 months of the year. What I wanted was a brake pedal that was lower than my clutch pedal - no adjustment for that. I didn't change the brake pedal brake functionality what so-ever (same throw), and I really believe my braking response is better due to better pedal location. Hey, I'am just throwing the brake pedal modification out there, I know people that have gone out and spent lots of $ to upgrade there brakes to improve braking by a fraction of a second. This is worth a fraction of a second and then some and will cost you alot less than that.