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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2022
Posts: 2
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Help wiring Rennline 6 Pole Battery Disconnect on 82 SC
Hey guys,
We are getting one of the cars ready for track use, and need a little help wiring the kill switch in. It is a 1982 911 SC running a 3.6 VarioRam. We are using the Rennline Part #EL-28606 and have two questions: 1. Which wire should I put through the secondary contacts to kill the ignition when the switch is pulled? The 82 current flow diagrams are not the easiest thing to decipher. 2. Is the resistor a necessary item? From the include wiring diagram, it seems like it would be a constant draw on the battery if the switch is left on. https://www.rennline.com/battery-disconnect-switch-sku-el-28606/ Thanks in advance for the help! |
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09-11-2022, 12:14 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2022
Posts: 2
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09-12-2022, 03:16 PM
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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Alex
You use the small "kill" switch contacts to kill the fuel pump. I found it easiest to install a relay in the +12V wire to the fuel pump. Control the relay by running either the new relay positive or ground through the proper small switch in the assembly. Savier folks can figure out a way to use the regular fuel pump relay to do this. You can get the relay control positive from the bottom of the fuse for the fuel pump, which is also where you would get the thicker wire you can connect to the power pins for your new relay. This small push on connector switch is on/closed when the main battery switch is on/closed. The other switch for the resistor is off when the other switches are on, so the resistor is only in any kind of circuit when the main battery switch is off. No draw at all once residual current from the now dying alternator is gone. Other than using a second relay (you can get at any FLAPS, and probably with a plug for it with wires), all this is described in the instructions which come with the master kill switch. It most likely is made by Merit or someone in Germany - standard kill switch. Be sure, if you mount the switch externally, as on the cowl, that you set it so that if a piece of tire rubber hits the red key, it won't turn the key to the off position - it has happened. |
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09-12-2022, 03:42 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern California
Posts: 3,751
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Some information that might be helpful:
Help me wire in my disconnect switch My application includes aftermarket EFI (Haltech). I use the kill switch secondary NC contacts (to which WF referred to as "small" contacts above) for my second fuel pump (the one that Haltech controls). My first fuel pump (which draws fuel into the surge tank) has his own switch on the dash. I use the kill switch secondary NO contacts for dumping to ground through the supplied resistor when the main switch is opened.
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Mike PCA Golden Gate Region Porsche Racing Club #4 BMWCCA NASA |
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09-13-2022, 11:12 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern California
Posts: 3,751
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By the way, there has been some debate about alternator diode protection and two pole switches. I have wired in a many two pole switches and they have been actuated without ruining diodes.
PAG used two pole Bosch switches in many racing applications. I prefer the six pole switches, and only buy them from Pegasus, and I always carry an extra switch and an extra key to the track.
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Mike PCA Golden Gate Region Porsche Racing Club #4 BMWCCA NASA |
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09-13-2022, 11:14 AM
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