Voltage Regulator Shop in Vegas Area

[Swordfish II]

Hi,

Hoping someone might be able to help me out. Just got back from overseas and was picking up my 1976 911 in the Vegas area.

I noticed the tach was bouncing erratically without any corresponding change in peddle position, speed, or engine sound. Temps were fine as well.

I took it to Gaudin Porsche in Las Vegas who basically said "We dunno" because I have megasquirt fuel rails.

Suffice it to say a quick search shows it is either the Voltage Regulator or the Alternator, and it seems to be a fairly common issue.

That said I have no tools at my disposal so I was wondering if anyone knew of a reputable shop in the Las Vegas area that can check and do the work.

Thank you

[Swordfish II]

After some more searching I found the location of my voltage regulator

Definitely external which should make replacement easier.

Can anyone provide me with the removal process? Also confirm that this one

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/90160320603.htm?pn=901-603-206-03-M260&SVSVSI=911M&DID=15560

Would work?

[E Sully]

I don't know what is done to install megasquirt systems, but if you have the stock distributor I would check the points.
To check the voltage regulator just connect a voltmeter to the battery and see if the voltage is varying outside of approximately 13-14.5V while varying rpm.

[Swordfish II]

Originally Posted by E Sully

I don't know what is done to install megasquirt systems, but if you have the stock distributor I would check the points.
To check the voltage regulator just connect a voltmeter to the battery and see if the voltage is varying outside of approximately 13-14.5V while varying rpm.

Thanks Ed. Dug up a multimeter, So I will try testing tonight

[fintstone]

Carl's Place (now apparently 900 Series Motorsports) was very helpful with my '89 Carrera when I lived there.

[Swordfish II]

Originally Posted by fintstone

Carl's Place (now apparently 900 Series Motorsports) was very helpful with my '89 Carrera when I lived there.

Thank you, I plan on getting in touch with them after I hopefully confirm what the actual problem is.

[E Sully]

While there is a chance the voltage could be the issue, realize that the main signal to the tachometer is the points. If the points are pitted, incorrect gap, or play in the distributor shaft you will have issues with the tachometer.

[Swordfish II]

Originally Posted by E Sully

While there is a chance the voltage could be the issue, realize that the main signal to the tachometer is the points. If the points are pitted, incorrect gap, or play in the distributor shaft you will have issues with the tachometer.

I just measured the voltages

Cold at rest: 12.49
Idle after warm: 13.7 -14.3
Approx 2500 RPM: Steady 13.8

I mainly see the huge RPM jumps (no accompanying speed increase, nor bucking, just tach waving around) around 2500 RPM under load

So it looks like it is not the voltage regulator.

So I assume that means it is likely the distributor?

[E Sully]

I have had to clean up 3 distributors over the years. They can be neglected and need to check that the vacuum advance, advance weights, shaft play, and points are in good condition.
Part of regular maintenance is to lube the points rubbing block and felt in the center of the shaft. Also replace the points, rotor and cap if pitting is seen. To set the timing first set the gap on the points with a feeler gauge and fine tune it with a dwell meter. Timing will change as the gap is adjusted.
Distributor Maintenance

[john walker's workshop]

I agree that it's probably a points issue. 1st thing I check when the tach wigs out. Probably barely opening.

[Swordfish II]

I appreciate the response Ed and John.

Unfortunately I don't have a dwellmeter or a feeler gauge, but will be sure to get them once I get home.

Have a call and email in to Carl's Place. So hopefully I hear back.

[Swordfish II]

Originally Posted by E Sully

I have had to clean up 3 distributors over the years. They can be neglected and need to check that the vacuum advance, advance weights, shaft play, and points are in good condition.
Part of regular maintenance is to lube the points rubbing block and felt in the center of the shaft. Also replace the points, rotor and cap if pitting is seen. To set the timing first set the gap on the points with a feeler gauge and fine tune it with a dwell meter. Timing will change as the gap is adjusted.
Distributor Maintenance

Carl's Place has had the car for the past 3 days and called to confirm my rotor and distributor cap were badly worn and needed to be replaced.

They also mentioned that my megasquirt using the stock CDI is a bit restricting, the vacuum advance is maxed out and a better aftermarket ignition system would be a big help, but not exactly necessary. I might have them do that while it is in the shop. They are getting an estimate together now.
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[timmy2]

What Megasquirt ECU are you running?

[Swordfish II]

Originally Posted by timmy2

What Megasquirt ECU are you running?

I'm sorry I can't remember off the top of my head. I can check after I get the car back.

[Swordfish II]

Got the car back.

The big finale: My RPM gauge bouncing was due to a bad gauge. It is being rebuilt and Carl's Place will mail it to me when it is finished, they gave me a loaner to use.

Quite a lot of work done to the car, my ignition switch was bad (I knew about it). My battery didn't have enough power for both the cranktrigger ignition and the megasquirt (knew about it, the crappy autozone ones were a bit short for the megasquirt alone). My distributor was bad, which I also knew was going.

Carl's place cleaned up the wiring, removed all traces of the distributor, and did a road tune. The tune is a bit rough (mostly on tip-in at cruising speeds) as are cold starts, which is kinda understandable given they aren't dedicated tuners. They provided me with all the maps they tweaked, and a usb to serial cable for the megasquirt, the one I had connected was serial only.

Dedicated ignition did give me a much better power curve and eliminated the bogging I had below 3,000 RPM with just the megasquirt. It now pulls very well WOT from low to higher rpms, and the big plus is that I wont have to deal with a distributor again.

Carl's Place was through with all the stuff I would care about, and did NOT try to sell me trunk/hood pistons, wipers, etc. They stuck to the major things.

It was quite expensive though. It took them a while to figure out how Clewett's crank trigger interacted with the megasquirt and unfortunately that fell on me.

All in all though, I am confident enough in the work done to travel cross country, after a few days of shakedown and it was nice to be able to go over things with Brant who performed all the work.

If anyone between Nevada and Virginia wants to buy a used original and still working CDI. I would be happy to meet you.