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Windshield Help Needed Please!!!

Good evening all-

'84 3.2L Cabrio. I've been struggling with installing a Pilkington windshield with both the factory seal and the redesigned Uro seal. Essentially, there is a 5-10mm gap at the bottom of the windshield between the pinch weld and the seal.

This gap occurs with both the Porsche and the (re-designed) Uro seal, and occurs regardless of whether or not the metal trim is installed or not (I originally thought that the gap was due to poor workmanship on my part in installing the trim, and so I put the windshield and seal in without the trim to check -- same gap). I have gotten the seal completely over the entire length of the pinch weld using brute force from a couple of helpers but it pops right back out as soon as the pressure is released.

I searched for evidence of a cowl replacement (with perhaps a non-spec pinch weld) but I can't find anything.

One highly recommended glass shop couldn't get my last windshield installed (also Pilkington) and actually broke it.

I should also say that I got the interior vinyl very tight against the back of the pinch weld, and so I don't think that's a factor here.

Thanks again and looking forward to the collective wisdom of this group -- this windshield has truly been a nightmare.

Thanks,

-Ira


Last edited by isby; 10-29-2022 at 03:04 PM..
Old 10-29-2022, 02:46 PM
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FYI - here's a photo of the gap:

Old 10-29-2022, 02:51 PM
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Did you cross the rope at the bottom, set the bottom of the rubber onto the pinch weld first and then pull the rope toward each side and have your helpers pat the assembly down so the rubber groove sits in the pinch weld, and then go up each side, patting the assembly down as you go, then across the top and finish patting it in place? Is that your procedure? the trim needs to go into the rubber before the install or you won't get it in later.
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Old 10-29-2022, 03:03 PM
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To add to John, the trim needs to be shaped to match the curvature and shape of the windshield and then fully inserted into the channel.

Start at the bottom and seat the window and work to the top.

Then you can use a wood shim to tap the trim into place and make sure it’s fully shaped.
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Old 10-29-2022, 03:28 PM
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I have inserted the trim prior to putting the glass on the car. I’m pretty confident that it is shaped correctly. I have been starting by attempting to seat the glass(with seal and trim) all the way around and then getting inside and pulling the ropes. Are you guys saying that I should start with only the bottom of the seal seated in the windshield opening (with top of the seal sitting outside of it)?
Old 10-29-2022, 03:40 PM
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Pretty much. Slightly angled so you can deal getting the bottom in first, but with your helpers keeping a bit of pressure on it, so it stays there. Always patting it downward.
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Old 10-29-2022, 05:30 PM
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What is that bare metal thing in the pic? Is the pinch weld not straight across? Looks wiggly.
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Old 10-29-2022, 05:32 PM
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That’s what I thought too. There’s a little dip in the pinch weld. I tried to straighten it out but it really didn’t want to bend. That seems to be the least of my problems. I’m going to try your method and see if I have any luck. Thanks again.
Old 10-29-2022, 07:44 PM
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I have installed a number of windshields in my cars, along with rear and quarter window glass on a couple occasions. My wife has always been the rope puller and I push from the outside. On front windshields, I always wedge the bottom in tight and start the rope on the top. This allows for me to stand on a stool and get too leverage on the top edge. Once installed, you ALWAYS need to form metal trim with a rubber mallet or block of wood. I use this to drive the trim outward and take up the gaps most people complain about as it never seats without this.

I have used factory, aftermarket and recently, a heated windshields and it's never been that hard.
Old 10-30-2022, 06:12 AM
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You should deal with any bare metal before you do anything else
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Old 10-30-2022, 08:23 AM
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Appreciate all the feedback. No matter how I set it in, I can’t get the bottom of the seal close enough to the pinch weld to get the lip over it. I suspect that there is interference from the edge of the dash pad. The dash appears to be original and has definitely warped over the years. I’m thinking that I should remove the dash pad and then check to see where the seal hits the weld with the dash pad removed. Roping in a windshield just can’t be this hard - there’s got to be something else going on. If it’s not the glass, the seal or the trim, maybe it’s the dash…

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