First engine/tranny drop / photos and questions

[Cairo94507]

Nice videos and work. I would definitely replace the throwout bearing (it looks bad) and the flywheel seal just because.

[kevbo]

Thanks for the tip AAdvanced! Luckily I had added die to the last oil change so i was able to detect seepage out of the nose bearing.








Happy to report those leaks are fixed! I would definitely recommend that nose bearing seal.

[kevbo]

I had the exhaust media blasted to clean them up before I finish them off:



Then like so many I have to deal with the broken exhaust studs. I had two that snapped at the base and one at the bolt (left about 1.5cm or so

[kevbo]

Successfully removed the broken studs with the Stomski jig our host sells. It was worth every penny seeing I used it on three broken studs and didn't get into the header at all.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/STOMSKISR065.htm?pn=STOMSKI-SR065&msclkid=26aa7da05e701ed587ff1e553653ffbd&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20Ads%20-%20Porsche&utm_term=4580634170083223&utm_content=Porsche%20Catch%20All

[kevbo]

I had a leak in my oil cooler so I replaced it with this rennline cooler on ebay. Price was right for about $525 and so far so good. I did add some curel T around the perimeter of the new gaskets to make sure i get a good seal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384285021862

[kevbo]

[kevbo]

on to the oil tank gasket leak

[tsuter]

Kevin, Do that oil tank gasket with a silicone gasket not cork. You'll be very happy. It uses the same fitment gasket as on the top of the fuel level sender. on the fuel tank Silicone.

[ADDvanced]

Agreed, I did mine cork the first time, regret. Doing silicone before this spring.

[kevbo]

Thanks for the heads up. I asked my local parts place for input on this and they didn't really have one so I bought cork. What are the downsides of the cork anyway? (maybe my first picture of a oily mess explains that)

[tsuter]

I did cork for years and it was always just a matter of time before the seeping if you don't drive your car cork is probably OK for the Q-tippers).
The silicone gasket is the one for the fuel level sender on the tank. Same size fitment. That and a little RTV and your tank seal area will happily look like this for years to come....

[ahh911]

Have oil level sensor on the bench while replacing seal.

Resistance would jump around when jiggling the float arm at certain points.
Identified it as a ground to the sweep arm.
Removed sweep arm and cleaned the brass above and below the swivel points.
Moving the float up and jiggling, the resistance now stays solid.
The arm on the float is connected to ground through the brass swivel point.

Then straightened the mounting disc. (where the 5 nuts bolt the the sensor to the oil tank)
There must have been some contact gained between the connector at the power side as the Ohms dropped from 20 to 10 when at the lowest position. I attribute this to the reshaping of the disc, it flexed the connector to "rivet" slightly and firmed up contact.

Then, I temporarily siliconed a small tube on the centre contact point and flooded it with light oil overnight to see if there is a leak at the connector pass through. I don't want to get into a gasket replacement game when it's a connector leaking.

Finally, going to drain out the oil directly below the sensor, the old rubber gasket crap crumbled away, don't think any went down there, but why not drain it anyway.

Phil

[kevbo]

I replace 3 exhaust studs and installed my finished exhaust. I used very high temp primer and Eastwood Acrylic Exhaust Aluminum Silver Color Lacquer Exhaust Paint Aerosol. Time will tell if this solution is effective or not. If not I'm confident I can easily remove the the exhaust and try something else!



I also curious to see how the lime green straps react to the heat. I used 500 degree engine paint and high temp ceramic followed by a three stage baking process in my wife's plug in turkey roaster :-). No she doesn't know

[ADDvanced]

That paint should hold up pretty nice, I used it on some snowmobile exhaust clamps and it looked good for years. I kind of doubt the aluminum lacquer will hold up tho.... good thing is nobody will see it. Keep er moving!

[kevbo]

Replacing a cracked oil breather hose (930-207-385-01). The new one is missing the "restrictor"

Here's a snapshot of the original one with this restrictor.



Is that no longer needed or am i supposed to remove it and install in the new hose?

[kevbo]

Pics of reinstall performed early last month. Car is running great. Have a slower leak in the nose seal i'll need to fix next winter and I should have replacee the oil return tubes while I was there since one is seeping. Also, I should have replaced the little rubber gaskets on the chain housings. Such cheap parts!

[kevbo]

Here's a video of cold start

https://youtu.be/Uvrgid2PFPo

[83_Silberpfeil]

Congratulations, well done! Engine looks great. And from your video, sounding nice as well. An inspiration for me --- one day I'll work up the courage to do same for my 83 SC.

[spoke]

Congrats on the engine R&R. I'm heading that way on my '86 930. Beside oil leaks everywhere I stripped the #2 spark plug and need some work done.

Question on the lift. I don't like lifting the car with a couple of jackstands and would rather have that lift you used. Is it easily put in place and stored when not in use?

[kevbo]

The lift comes with wheels you can put on if you need to move it if need. It weighs about 1000lbs. I just keep mine in place and you and see in the pics I built some wood ramps to "integrate" with the parking spot in my garage. I still use the lift multiple times a week if not on the Porsche on other family cars.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234328298926?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=22s_t2shqa6&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I don't think I'd want to do this work without the lift. I even use it when I want to get into the engine bay so I don't have to bend over.