Pipe line hoses

[joe912/62]

Can I just remove the metal ferrule and replace with new hoses instead?
Hard part to find

[EC900]

Are you intending to reuse the original copper tube and want to reattach new rubber hose section to it - or replace the copper and use a full length rubber hose instead?
Even using a proper (pressure-rated) rubber hose with right ferrules, trying to make a sharp bend might be the problem, unless there’s room to make a wider radius work. Looking at your pic, it compares a bit to what I’ve done on a transmission cooler line when the oem ferrule snapped off was to cut the alum ferrule off with a dremel wheel, then made a flare end on the aluminum tubing in order to use standard hose clamps, this keeps hose intact under pressure. Way cheaper than new assembly and specialty tools to get it off transmission.

[joe912/62]

I would like to re use the copper tube. How easy is it to cut the ferrule and would I have to flare the copper after?

[EC900]

Ferrule is easy to cut, I used a Dremel rotary tool w/ abrasive cutting wheel. + You may get lucky and find flares already under the ferrules, I never done this repair.
But Yes, if there aren’t flares you will then need them out both ends of the copper.
After further review, my concern would be in any case is how much pressure will be on the hose clamps although the flare ends would keep the hose from slippage, their sealing capability of oil leaks may not be adequate or acceptable as depending on driving, oil pressures can exceed 50psi perhaps more to 80 psi…I don’t know or have specs.
If it were me, I’d head on down to a shop that specializes in hydraulic lines, like diesel truck shop for hose refurbish with a crimped line end for a more safe and permanent fix, also maybe an ac shop could do it too. If it’s something of a quick fix, even a plumber might be able to flare end copper.

[joe912/62]

I believe that pipe is for vacuum to the brakes?

[Walt Fricke]

Right - that part is for vacuum to the brake booster. You don't want vacuum leaks, but clamping is less critical than it is with, say, 100 psi fluid lines. Small diameter vacuum lines (think distributor advance/retard) are normally just push on rubber or similar hose with no clamping.

I'd expect those screw clamps would work fine in this application, whether the copper tube is flared or not. Max pressure trying to push its way in would be just one atmosphere. There are rubber hoses connecting the steel vacuum tube which runs through the car's center tunnel and through the front firewall. In three places the hose is connected to un flared/knurled steel tubing with regular hose clamps.

[joe912/62]

Cut the ferrules off and there are no flares on the ends

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by joe912/62

I believe that pipe is for vacuum to the brakes?

Joe,

You will need a foot of 1/2” ID hydraulic hose and cut them to (2”, 2”, & 8”) to replace the 3 OEM vacuum hoses. A local hydraulic shop could install the metal ferrules needed or use stainless bands. Test the assembly using a Mitty Vac hand pump (25” Hg +).

Tony

[joe912/62]

Should I use the crimped style bands?

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by joe912/62

Should I use the crimped style bands?

Joe,

The crimped style bands look more professional and grabs the vacuum rubber hose uniformly sealed. Just bring them to the hydraulic shop and have them crimped. If they have the correct 1/2” ID hydraulic hose, you will need three (3) pieces (2”, 2”, & 8”).

Tony

[joe912/62]

Used my Mitty vacuum pump with the 1/2” hose’s and it hold at 25” HG for the last
30 minutes without it loosing vacuum.
Is there a way to test the Venturi valve?

[Walt Fricke]

My supposition is that Porsche crimped this piece because it was more efficient to do so as it was manufactured as a separate part than to have an employee put a screw clamp on it and screw it down. When it came to adding the other rubber hose links, they used screw clamps, which required only a screw driver in the hands of the assembler in the car and under the front hood. Maybe using a crimp tool in those locations would be awkward? Or just one more tool to be required for the assembly line?

Porsche used screw clamps on the line from the gas tank to the pump, which always kind of surprised me. The pump tube has a belled end, but I can't recall if the tank tube does also.

[jac1976]

Always impressed by this forum. I was going to suggest some pliers and a set of 30-weight ball bearings. Possibly some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads.