Clutch cable removal issue, 82 911SC

[JSZ]

I decided to replace the boot on the clutch cable at the transmission while I had the peddle cluster out for renovation. I removed the clevis and lock nut and then went underneath the car and pulled the cable. It progressed about 15" and then stopped and would not allow any further removal. I could push it in and pull it back where it would again stop at the 15" So I lifted up the gear shifter to look into the tunnel and noticed the threaded barrel where attached to the clutch peddle side was hanging up on a plastic insert that was inside the steel guide tube, adjacent to the shifter. So do I have to remove the cable and cable guide from the exterior, ( outside of the firewall), to allow for the cable to be separated from the cable guide to change the rubber boot? I think once I get it out the cable guide and plastic liner will not allow separation so the boot can be installed.
Anyone have a good idea on how to accomplish the boot installation, short of buying a complete clutch cable?
Thanks.

[boyt911sc]

Jeff,

The clutch cable will not slide out unless you destroy the inner plastic sleeve. I have a new clutch cable sitting now on my work bench and tried to slide the cable out. I was able to slide only about 14” back and forth. You have to remove the comple clutch cable assembly and install a new one. Do you want to see the pictures?

BTW, any luck with your FD and WUR rebuilder? Sad to see a nice guy like you taken advantage by the so called “professional”. Good luck.

Tony

[JSZ]

Hey Tony, was thinking that the sleeve and cable would have to be destroyed. Oh well. Have you had any success in expanding the boot end and installing it at the transmission side?
Thanks for the offer on the pictures.

I have talked to the FD and WUR rebuilder, it will be delivered soon. Looking forward to putting it back together.
Jeff

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

Hi Jeff - take a look at the link below to our DIY tech article on the clutch cable removal/replacement. It should help guide you in addition to the great info that Tony provided.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/09-Clutch_Cable/09-Clutch_Cable.htm

[yelcab1]

You know a picture says a thousand words

[JSZ]

Been there on the tutorial. I think the tutorial does not reflect the plastic insert that some cars have.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by JSZ

Hey Tony, was thinking that the sleeve and cable would have to be destroyed. Oh well. Have you had any success in expanding the boot end and installing it at the transmission side?
Thanks for the offer on the pictures.

I have talked to the FD and WUR rebuilder, it will be delivered soon. Looking forward to putting it back together.
Jeff

Jeff,

I tried to remove the rubber boot of the new clutch cable and was afraid it would rip or break or split so abandoned the idea to remove it. Do you have a new rubber boot? I don’t think you will be able to slide it through without splitting the small end.

Tony

[proporsche]

JSZ...here you have it.Every clutch cable has this white tube to protect the cable from water and outside elements.
In order to replace the cable ,it has to be removed -disconected from the pedal cluster.I guess you know that.
So,if the white plastic on the clutch cable is loose it is a sign (at least to me)that the clutch cable is about gone age wise.
So do not overthink this and get a new cable ,they are cheap....
One more thing. Every time i got a new cable to be installed i dipped it in a bucked with oil .The oil will go to the tube and stay there .It will be even easier and nice smooth clutch operation of the clutch...
Ivan

[Flat6pac]

Then you have to remove the black housing from the nipple on the firewall
Remember when reinstalling you need to seat the shielding to the nipple for correct adjustment.
Bruce

[JSZ]

Success on installing the boot. I made a tool to expand the rubber, with lube and was able to seat it successfully.

[yelcab1]

You have deferred that dog. It will come back to bite you in the ash at the most inopportune time. But, it is your car. I am amazed at the tools we come up with to do the strangest thing.

[911 Rod]

This cable is a wear item and needs to be replaced after time.
Why not get a new one and enjoy it.

[proporsche]

JSZ i need picture of the clutch arm to see how much clutch disc you have left

Ivan

[JSZ]

Thank you all for your concern on the clutch cable health and replacement. The reason I was into the cable boot replacement was it was damaged in storage prior to my ownership. During the cluster restoration I inspected the cable and the last 15" of it at the transmission, it was in very good condition and well lubed. To add, the car has only 55000 miles and clutch adjustment within spec, so in my opinion it did not need replacement. Rather spend the resources on other more pressing matters the car could benefit from.
Here is a picture of the wear on the clutch disc.

Thank you, Jeff

[tsuter]

Having just done this today and I saw this old thread so thought I would add a pic and update.
To replace the rubber clutch cable boot from the transmission end over the cable connector, use your circlip expansion pliers to spread open the end of the boot and on it goes.


And on...easy peasy...no bucket of oil necessary...

[DaytonaCoupe66]

OP; hope you don't mind me chiming in as it relates to your exercise.

Yesterday I removed the clutch cable/shielding from my '82 for inspection, and it's in great shape but because I've had a new one why not put it on and I'll keep the used one aside as a spare. New is a good data point of certainty, and better on the car than on the shelf.

Taking off the old and installing the new was quick; slide one out and one in. Although the clevis at the pedal box had been installed left to right and snapping upward, I noted that Bentley and other resources recommend inserting the clevis pin from right to left and snapping downward over the nut, which makes more sense. So, having time and being naive, I thought I'd make it right.

Well, I took the seat out, carpet, wooden thingy, pulled back the carpet at the console and spent an embarrassing number of hours over two sessions with my head jammed in the wheel well but no-go on insertion from the right back toward left. I used every hack and combo of tools and magnets and duct tape that I could think of but could not get the clevis aligned and into place. There is NO room to work, terrible sight line when hands and the flashlight are obstructing, and even if the pin lines up, no means of putting enough pressure on the back of it to press it through.

I admitted defeat and snapped the clevis pin into place from left toward the right, as I'd found it. I'm sure there's a special service gizmo or secret handshake but I can't find it. If anybody has a pro tip please do share it.

[DaytonaCoupe66]

Answered my own question; remove the accelerator linkage to make the necessary room to work.
Still not easy but achievable.