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How good is POR 15 ?

I have some rust to deal with and never
used the product.

Old 09-18-2012, 08:29 AM
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I've used it over the years, and have been very, very happy with it.

If you can get to the metal to properly prepare it (using their prep products, Marine Clean etc.) and to properly apply it, it will give rust protection for a long time.

It's pretty heavy duty stuff. You don't want to get any of it on you! Very hard to remove from yourself.
Old 09-18-2012, 08:33 AM
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its not good in UV you need to cover it with a second type of paint imo.
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McLovin View Post
I've used it over the years, and have been very, very happy with it.

If you can get to the metal to properly prepare it (using their prep products, Marine Clean etc.) and to properly apply it, it will give rust protection for a long time.

It's pretty heavy duty stuff. You don't want to get any of it on you! Very hard to remove from yourself.

x2. worked great for me but took almost 2 weeks to have it fully removed from my hands. also once you open it that's it, you have to use it all or throw it away. also it must be applied to bare metal, not a painted surface.,
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:59 AM
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nineball, once you open the can, transfer it to smaller glass jars. As long as you keep the rim of the glass jars and lids clean, you can get the jars opened up again later...that's the trick. ONE DROP on the rim and it's glued shut. Other than that there's no "one use" magic to it. Been doing this for years.

And it will stick to a painted surface, you just need to prep carefully.

cheers
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:16 AM
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yeah, the instructions/directions need to be read and followed, for prep of the metal, application, pre-painting, painting, etc.

They give very good instructions with the product.

I've managed to keep and reuse it. If you put it in quality small, airtight screw top bottles, filled all the way to the top (so there's no air), and store it in the fridge, I've found that it will stay good for a long time. I've kept it for well over a year this way!

One thing, for sure, though, if any liquid (water, sweat, etc.) gets into it, it won't store.

It's a really good product. A long time ago, while I was working on a project, I took a really rusty piece of sheet metal (surface rust all over, rusted all the way through in spots, etc.), prepped it, POR'd it front and back and spray painted it. I left it in a corner of the backyard for years. Literally 10 years later, no rust was coming through!
Old 09-18-2012, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam912 View Post
nineball, once you open the can, transfer it to smaller glass jars. As long as you keep the rim of the glass jars and lids clean, you can get the jars opened up again later...that's the trick. ONE DROP on the rim and it's glued shut. Other than that there's no "one use" magic to it. Been doing this for years.

And it will stick to a painted surface, you just need to prep carefully.

cheers
Adam912.out.
Agreed.

It will stick very well to paint, no problem. Of course, if there is rust beneath that paint, that rust will eventually come back, though.
Old 09-18-2012, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
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And it will stick to a painted surface, you just need to prep carefully.
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Originally Posted by McLovin View Post
Agreed.

It will stick very well to paint, no problem. Of course, if there is rust beneath that paint, that rust will eventually come back, though.

per the por-15 website:

CAN I APPLY POR-15 OVER OTHER PAINTS?
Yes, but you will lose the important benefits of POR-15. You must remember that ordinary paints are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 can't stop rust if it isn't in direct contact with the base metal.


what i take from that is that there is no point in applying it over paint since that prohibits the product from doing what it was supposed to. i also know from past uses that it is much harder to apply on paint. the pro-15 tends to streak and not spread evenly. to each his own but if you want to get the most out of the product it should be applied to bare/rusted metal.

good to know about saving and reusing though. i always just by the smallest can that will work for my application.
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:30 AM
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Good stuff! I've never bothered with the marine clean step - just make sure the metal is clean and dry (pitted rusty surface works best). When it is tacky I sprayed it with a semi-matte black rattle can paint, to knock the shine off it.

I've also used a little at a time, using a plastic coffee scoop, so as not to get any on the rim of the can. Has lasted 2-3 years and still seems to be effective.

Wear gloves and use in a well-ventilated area.
Old 09-18-2012, 09:33 AM
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I think the tip that I got here was to buy a small can. Rather than open it, drill a hole in the bottom, use it from there and then seal it with a sheet metal screw in the hole until next time
Old 09-18-2012, 10:16 AM
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POR-15 = Waste of $ IMHO

I guess I must be the only one who had a bad experience with POR 15. I used it around 13 years ago on a truck I bought off a guy from New York. The truck had some minor rust issues on the frame from all the road salt used during the winters up there.

I followed POR 15's instructions to a "tee." I used Marine Clean, their etching solution, etc. to prep the frame before painting. I found all the POR-15 I applied to the previously painted surfaces flaked off rather quickly and the areas of rust I painted over all came back within the year. I was very disappointed.

I spoke to the folks in POR-15's customer service department and they told me I may have used a bad batch. They sent me a new can, but after I got it I figured what was the point. The unopened can stayed in my garage for several years until I tried to give it to a guy I know who restores cars. All I can say is he laughed. After that the can went straight in the trash (IAW all environmental laws of course).

I don't know if they changed their formula since I used it, but I would not recommend the product. I think if you ask some professionals who restore cars for a living, they'll probably steer you to other products. Keep in mind this is just one opinion based on my experience.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:34 AM
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As long as it is out of the sun it is great stuff. I've used it on rust, inner body panels and painted engine blocks with the stuff......works great.
Old 09-18-2012, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reiver View Post
As long as it is out of the sun it is great stuff. I've used it on rust, inner body panels and painted engine blocks with the stuff......works great.
Based on this quote is it safe to assume POR 15 is good for high temperature applications?
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniff View Post
I guess I must be the only one who had a bad experience with POR 15. I used it around 13 years ago on a truck I bought off a guy from New York. The truck had some minor rust issues on the frame from all the road salt used during the winters up there.

I followed POR 15's instructions to a "tee." I used Marine Clean, their etching solution, etc. to prep the frame before painting. I found all the POR-15 I applied to the previously painted surfaces flaked off rather quickly and the areas of rust I painted over all came back within the year. I was very disappointed.

I spoke to the folks in POR-15's customer service department and they told me I may have used a bad batch. They sent me a new can, but after I got it I figured what was the point. The unopened can stayed in my garage for several years until I tried to give it to a guy I know who restores cars. All I can say is he laughed. After that the can went straight in the trash (IAW all environmental laws of course).

I don't know if they changed their formula since I used it, but I would not recommend the product. I think if you ask some professionals who restore cars for a living, they'll probably steer you to other products. Keep in mind this is just one opinion based on my experience.
frame rust tends to expand and flake off in large chunks. usually has alot of crap back between all the layers . I can definatly see how po-15 would be ineffective in that situation. I dont have much experience with it myself. Rather than spend the rediculous amount just to encapsulate the rust I just get rid of it with a grinder and wire wheel and paint it the right way
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:31 PM
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There are other products out there that work very well...maybe even better. Do a search for "rust converters" and the like.
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:39 PM
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POR-15 is a good product. If the metal is bare and rusty, then it will work fine. Just be careful of the fumes.

Zero Rust and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator are also good products. I'll be using one of them on my next set of floor pans. They are also a bit safer with regards to the fumes.
Old 09-18-2012, 07:09 PM
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great product. They definite (the company, and the above Pelicanites) recommend transferring to smaller containers and using... I did initially, but later, didn't. Still works fine (12 years later)... I have used it on cars, iron on boats in salt water, motor cycle frames, etc... it's good stuff... but yes, do paint it afterward, or bad things happen... and the other cool thing about it, is that it kicks off in the presence of hudimity, so pretty much good to use all the time.

My $.02
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:13 PM
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To me it's really a temporary solution to a larger problem. I don't understand people who go to all the trouble to media blast/prep/sand/scour an area only to put POR-15 on it thinking it's the bees knees. A proper two-part epoxy primer is MUCH better. I have experience with the paint, as I did a very high-end restoration on my 1964 Land Rover 109 5-Door Wagon back in 1998. I sandblasted all the parts, the frame, etc. The frame was done with DuPont Epoxy Primer (black), and some of the smaller parts like the front panel (breakfast) were done with POR-15. All of the pieces 10 years later that were done with POR-15 had this strange tendency to 'flake' off like old cellophane tape, no matter what the surface, or how it was prepped (and I was meticulous with everything). Everything that was done in POR-15 was worthless in 5-10 years, and I suspect this may have something to do with the sun (although most of the pieces were top coated) and the car garaged for a bit.

Well, POR-15 is not for me. It's not a really end-all, be-all product. I would not ever use it again, especially after 10s of hours of prep work. I mean if you don't want to get rid of the rust, put some Rustoleum on it and fix it properly later. It's not a real serious solution if you plan on keeping your car and want the best for it. That's my experience with it.
Old 09-18-2012, 07:53 PM
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I read all the reports so I bought some to fix the surface rust ahead of the rear wheelwells on my wife's SAAB. I followed the directions religiously down to bare metal and the right side is rusting again, less than 10 months later. I need to strip it off and redo it. I'm not looking forward to it because I don't know how hard it will be to remove. Can't imagine it will be fun. I'll be trying something different.
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Old 09-22-2012, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountD View Post
To me it's really a temporary solution to a larger problem. I don't understand people who go to all the trouble to media blast/prep/sand/scour an area only to put POR-15 on it thinking it's the bees knees. A proper two-part epoxy primer is MUCH better. I have experience with the paint, as I did a very high-end restoration on my 1964 Land Rover 109 5-Door Wagon back in 1998. I sandblasted all the parts, the frame, etc. The frame was done with DuPont Epoxy Primer (black), and some of the smaller parts like the front panel (breakfast) were done with POR-15. All of the pieces 10 years later that were done with POR-15 had this strange tendency to 'flake' off like old cellophane tape, no matter what the surface, or how it was prepped (and I was meticulous with everything). Everything that was done in POR-15 was worthless in 5-10 years, and I suspect this may have something to do with the sun (although most of the pieces were top coated) and the car garaged for a bit.

Well, POR-15 is not for me. It's not a really end-all, be-all product. I would not ever use it again, especially after 10s of hours of prep work. I mean if you don't want to get rid of the rust, put some Rustoleum on it and fix it properly later. It's not a real serious solution if you plan on keeping your car and want the best for it. That's my experience with it.
+1!!!
Epoxy primer is the best solution although it won't "encapsulate" rust, it will outlast you if the metal is prepared properly and can be brushed on or sprayed. Seriously, put some on some metal and then try removing it after it cures. POR15 is not the correct way to restore a Porsche... take the time to do it right the first time. You'll thank yourself later.

My .02

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Old 09-22-2012, 07:04 PM
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