SC oil hardline disconnect

[Fleetwood]

Prepping for an elephant cooler upgrade and spent the evening reading up on breaking the trombone cooler lines loose. Since air chisels, special wrenches etc are not part of my inventory I'm considering alternatives. Connections are currently soaking in penetrant and I'll continue reapplying daily

I've got a mapp gas torch but not excited about heating connections within inches of original paintwork (I could shield area with a wet cloth) and the dissimilar metal issue also has me concerned.

Just fitting any of my wrenches in the tight confines is a challenge, let alone using significant force. Guidance is to hold all components securely while reefing and the idea of managing 2 or 3 wrenches in there gives me a headache. Also the idea of pipe wrenches and extenders makes me pause

So my first choice so far is a dremel tool and cut the nuts, spread them apart, and twist them off. Second thought is using a sawzall to cut the tubes near the connections and then using a 20 some MM socket to remove. I'd rather not ruin the trombone but that may happen anyway

So what are the recommendations from the happy pelican crew? Nearly 35 years and 215K miles with this jewel. I'm a lucky guy. thanks ahead

[pampadori]

These connections haven't been a problem for me. use the proper 36mm oil line wrench and another suitable wrench to hold the other hex and go for it.

This is the wrench i use: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELPWOLW.htm?pn=PEL-PW-OLW

[joe912/62]

I had to do this and I had to cut the nut even having the correct size wrenches.
Just be careful not to cut to far.

[bigo5552000]

When I removed mine I used a 36mm wrench from northern tool and a big crescent wrench. Came off with no real issue other than some grunting.

Good luck!


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[MBAtarga]

You can also pick up a 36mm wrench from a local bike shop/supplier. 36mm is a popular bike headset size. You might need to grind down the sides for clearance - depending on make, etc.

[stormin48061]

try an induction coil heater? they work great for no flame heating.

[tk911]

I used a 36mm crows foot attachment I bought on ebay on the fitting I was loosening and a large adjustable wrench to hold the other line in place. It didn't take too much effort with a long enough lever.

[na2ub]

Agreed. Remove any brackets holding the lines to the body, to give yourself clearance. Without the bracket(s) you can flex them away from the body. I bought a 36 mm from Menards for about $20, and used a previously owned big adjustable wrench to hold the other side. Even if you buy 2 wrenches, you should be able to get it done for less than $50. With the proper wrenches, its pretty easy. I would cut the nuts as a last resort.

[David Inc.]

Two honking big adjustable crescent wrenches will do. As others say remove the brackets, that will open up space for you to jam them in there.

The oil lines are tough, they won't mind the manhandling.

[Mike Andrew]

36 mm wrenches from Harbor Freight for me. Ended up going to my Dremel anyway but as a last resort. If you go this route, be patient and careful.

[Fleetwood]

Thanks everyone so much for the input. I'm going to check out some wrenches and see what i can get going. I'd go straight for the pelican model referenced above but 2 of the 5 customer reviews were negative so I'll do some shopping today and see what comes up.

Input regarding loosening up the mounting brackets for the hoses to improve access is exactly the kind of tip needed. What about loosening up the trombone prior to hose disconnect? Should the trombone be just hanging there connected to the hard lines while I attempt the disconnect?

And finally, changed oil about 50 miles ago, at the end of the driving season. Do I need to drain some from the tank or just be prepared when I get the trombone loose, for a quart or so of oil to drain out?

My confidence level is improving thanks to all the input. Please keep it coming as I work through this. Pelican rocks

[Dpmulvan]

Put $20 in the swear jar before you start.

[David Inc.]

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

Put $20 in the swear jar before you start.

This is fair. Might be worth wrapping your large wrenches in thick tape, too, so they're less likely to break things when you throw them across the garage.

[Mark Salvetti]

Originally Posted by Fleetwood

And finally, changed oil about 50 miles ago, at the end of the driving season. Do I need to drain some from the tank or just be prepared when I get the trombone loose, for a quart or so of oil to drain out?

My confidence level is improving thanks to all the input. Please keep it coming as I work through this. Pelican rocks

Draining the oil tank won’t help. The oil is trapped in the lines because the thermostat is closed. And even if it wasn’t, gravity won’t drain the trombone. Just be ready to catch whatever drains.

The trombone is clamped in place near the bottom. I would leave that and only loosen the clamp after the fittings are disconnected.

Mark

[gamin]

Oil line wrench set. Pelican sells it. I've used mine many times. Narrowed the wrench heads by grinder for better fit in the tight places you mention.

[bahman]

To augment my strength, I bought two 2 ft X 1-1/2" steel pipes from Home Depot, slipped them over the wrench handles, and was able to easily break the connection.

[na2ub]

Not to beat a dead horse, but sometimes it is helpfull to position the wrenches so the the handles are near each other and apply torque in the correct direction when u squeeze the handles together. Just don’t get your fingers in the middle when it breaks loose.

You can also apply heat to the nut if you are still struggling.

[yelcab1]

You want to work on an old Porsche 911 oil lines without special tools? Sometimes, it is just better to spend a few bucks on the right tool. In this case the special 36mm wrench designed specifically to get into these hard to reach places is what you will need. Special benefit: you won't need to invent new four letter words.

Buy it.

[speedster911]

Fleetwood, where are you located. I have the factory oil line wrenches you can borrow if you are in NO CA.

[Fleetwood]

Ordered the 36mm wrench from Pelican yesterday so will keep penetrating connections. Also will disconnect hardline mounts and shift connections around for more access. Please keep the recommendations coming

If the loose hardlines give me more access, I may try some mapp gas heat. More details on the heating process would be helpful. Heat, penetrant, cool and then repeat? Like how long should the heat process go? Dissimilar metals and oil in the lines are my initial concerns. Maybe I'll try some shock hits with a hammer if I can figure out a suitable firm foundation

Many thanks to all who are assisting. I'm located in Salt Lake City and consulting other friends for specialty tools. One of the treads I've found shows a photo from John Walker with the tools he uses. Very helpful. Dremeling on hold til we try the mechanical disconnect. Starting the search for the 2ft + pipe extenders for the "scissor" type squeeze.

My progress is a function of all the great support and assistance . Thanks again