Center oil coller install

[shawn908]

Mid-installation of a front center mounted oil cooler to fit behind an IROC bumper (GT Style Oil cooler from PMB Performance). Oil lines from cooler to hard lines in rt front fender are pending delivery. I fabricated bracketing from USA made aluminum 1” strip from LHW. It is solidly held in place. Utilized vibration dampening attachment points (vibration isolator mounts Belmetric; M6 25mm OD, 15mm rubber) on the cooler itself, and also on the bottom and center mounts to the car. Used red LocTite on the nuts.

Feedback from any Pelicans with similar experience installing such a cooler is welcomed – if any obvious issues with how I did this (aesthetics aside), would be thankful for any tips to improve. NOTE: oil has NOT been drained from the engine. When I removed the right front fender installed cooler, about 100-150 mls of oil was spilled/caught.

QUESTION: when I have the oil lines installed, is it OK to just fire the engine and allow oil to equilibrate in the new circulation as engine is warmed to operating temperature?

[Uwon]

I would add half a liter of oil and then you should be good to fire her up and warm up the oil so the thermostat under the rear fender opens up. As usual, keep a watch on the oil level and check for leaks on a periodic basis.
Cheers,
Johan

[icarp]

Hey Shawn , Ian here .
Looking at the install, you are on the right track. I would put a min of 4 vibration dampening attachment points across top and bottom. One bracket for each. It's ok to tie them together.
On the lower brackets , two blots for chassis, min per , and two more supports ,
upper the same 2 blot system.
The oil cooler is heavy and gets to bouncing way up there in the front ,
you don't want it too break.


What type of aluminum do you have , 6061 t6 7075 t6 ? I would only use one of these
All others will fail
The 90 degree bends are stress risers and are prone to cracking .

Ian

[Cairo94507]

When you fire it up I would suggest having an IR gun handy just to make sure everything opens and flows when it comes up to temperature.

[shawn908]

Thanks all for responses - helpful.

Originally Posted by icarp

... a min of 4 vibration dampening attachment points across top and bottom. One bracket for each. It's ok to tie them together.
On the lower brackets , two blots for chassis, min per , and two more supports ,
upper the same 2 blot system.
The oil cooler is heavy and gets to bouncing way up there in the front ,
you don't want it too break.

A few additional brackets in between - could do that - the attachment points are there. The aluminum was bar stock, will have to confirm if either of 6061 or 7075 (hopefully - but like I said its from the hardware store - could be some other grade?). To make the bracket with right angles - bending is required, which makes me consider steel would be better material to use.

[Walt Fricke]

I've had no problems mounting Mazda coolers center front, bolting them to upper brackets fabricated for the purpose using the welded aluminum mount pieces already on the cooler, with no rubber isolation at all. My mounts, made from bits in my junk metal box, are kind of flimsy looking, but have never failed. The cooler fits fairly snuggly into the cutout in the front spoiler, so perhaps that itself has a vibration dampening effect? Certainly the lower lip of the spoiler doesn't contribute any strength, as it regularly has to be repaired due to contact with this and that, even getting it out of the trailer sometimes. However, this is now a track only SC.

[icarp]

The T rating, t5 t6 they are the hardness rating of the metal,
T6 6065 , or 7075 T6 are as durable as steel , T5 or less is meant for the office .

Ian