Torque valve versus reality

[Cevan]

As I wait for parts to come back from the machine shop for my engine build, I'm planning out the build and noting torque values for the various parts. One thing that concerns me is the recommended torque valves for the various sensors and fittings that go on the case. Both the factory manual and Wayne's book give them same specs.

The oil line adapter: 120Nm. Oil pressure relief plugs: 60Nm. Oil pressure sender and oil line adapter: 35 Nm. Temp switch and sensor: 25 Nm. Etc.

Given my case is 36 years old, is there any reason to deviant from these? Does anyone use something like Loctite 565 on the threads of any of these fittings?

Thanks.

[PeteKz]

Do not use Loctite on those fittings, unless you don't want to take them back off. Those are not under the stress that bolts and machine screws have to hold against.

[fanaudical]

One of the most common reasons for thread and fastener failure is fatigue, and fatigue is generally caused by insufficient preload tension in the fastener (not torqued sufficiently). I would torque to the factory specs.

[stownsen914]

Loctite 565 is a sealant, not a thread locking compound. These fittings should each have a sealing ring, which should be sufficient to seal them. It is worth inspecting the sealing surfaces before assembling to ensure no gouges, scoring, etc. that would interfere with sealing.

[Zuffenwerker]

Those torque specs are still fine to use, if you get the wrong feeling just stop. Also…DO use red loctite on the big oil line adapter that’s on the lower left case half. It’s hard to counterhold later in life when taking its oil line loose. It’s also a common source of oil leaks because they are hard to torque correctly when everything’s together on the car. There’s a tsb on specifically using loctite here.
I don’t use the torque values for fittings that use crush rings. Aluminum vs copper crush rings definitely crush differently…feels to me the ALU crushes faster. I don’t know what washers they originally used probably all copper. I think to feel the crush is most important. Either way copper or alu it may not make a difference and the torque value is probably fine that’s just my take on it

[Cevan]

Is the TSB available online?

[David Inc.]

Originally Posted by Zuffenwerker

Those torque specs are still fine to use, if you get the wrong feeling just stop. Also…DO use red loctite on the big oil line adapter that’s on the lower left case half. It’s hard to counterhold later in life when taking its oil line loose. It’s also a common source of oil leaks because they are hard to torque correctly when everything’s together on the car. There’s a tsb on specifically using loctite here.
I don’t use the torque values for fittings that use crush rings. Aluminum vs copper crush rings definitely crush differently…feels to me the ALU crushes faster. I don’t know what washers they originally used probably all copper. I think to feel the crush is most important. Either way copper or alu it may not make a difference and the torque value is probably fine that’s just my take on it

Apparently there were some steel crush washers used here and there originally, which is wild. I noticed the same thing with the cam tensioner banjo lines in the heads. If you try to torque them to spec with aluminum washers they'll completely fail, it's wild.

[Walt Fricke]

Actually torquing most (sensors in particular) of the devices mentioned would be difficult without using crow's feet, and then doing the math to convert measured torque to delivered torque. The oil scavenge output fitting could be torqued as long as you had the engine on an engine stand and hadn't put the heads on (or if you used a two piece cam oil return tube and hadn't installed it). The banjos which hold the cam oil lines to the cam carrier would be easy to torque, and are pretty robust, but why bother? If you use a standard open/closed end wrench on these, the length of the wrench will help limit how hard you twist to a good value. These are not rod bolts.