'86 Glove Box Repair Ideas...?

[lfhunt1]

My '86 Targa glove box door has become slightly separated from its medal frame on the corners. Can anyone who might have repaired this issue before offer up the best method to correct the problem? Would glue or an epoxy work well? If so, any particular brands come to mind? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards - L Hunt

[Ducman]

I was 100% successfull in repairing the same problem on mine 5 years ago and it still looks perfect today. If I remember correctly here is what I did:

Remove door completely from car - can't remember how but should be obvious if you study it.

Then I cut some 1x2 into appropriate lengths to serve as backing strips - you are going to clamp the corners back down while glue dries. I essentially cut these 1x2 strips to form an outline of the glove box door to clamp against so that the clamps would not damage the door's exterior cover and inside surface. Think of sandwiching the door between the wood and sqeezing all into shape. You are going to clamp with a lot of force so make these wood strips so they spread the load properly.

For glue I believe I used one of the "Goop" products, available at any DIY store - don't remember which one though. Think I choose this because I wanted strong bond with flexability and moisture resistence...like I said, repair has held up perfectly for 5 years.

Now BEFORE using any glue - soften the cover with some heat, place in the sun for a few hours to really heat soak it, if you're careful use an oven or a heat gun. I think you need to be very careful not to get the exterior vinyl too soft - you'll damage it, pay really close attention to how the vinyl is behaving. With the door heated, practice sandwiching between your wood strips and clamping with a bunch of C-clamps. you need to have the door warm enough that the cover bends back against the metal frame and not just depresses on the surface.

Once you've got the heat right, squeeze a ton of the Goop between the cover and the frame, clamp it again, wipe away any Goop that squeezed out and leave it cure for a few days.

If I remember - when I first removed the clamps the cover was slightly depressed with the outline of the 1x2 strips (I was initially bummed) but these faded away within a day (probably the memory of the vinyl cover).

Good luck

Don

[lfhunt1]

Don - thanks for your reply. Sounds perfect - I appreciate it!

L Hunt

[JFairman]

I've never used goop glue, but it seems contact cement would be good for this job too.
Careful use of fast evaporating wash laquer thinner is good for cleaning off any excess glue and meguire's "back to black' which is like armor all but lasts longer and will even out the satin sheen on the vinyl afterwards.
It doesn't turn the vinyl black, just makes it look something closer to new again.

[lfhunt1]

Great advice - thank you.

[gamatt]

I have the same issue going on...I'm removing the right side knee pad and then I can get at the glove box door.

As for the glue, you should know that contact cemment is heat sensitive. If the car gets hot inside, the glue will soften and you're back to square-one.

I'm going to go to the local hardware store or to Pekican Parts and get whatever glue is used for attaching the noise dampening pad to the inside of the engine compartment.

If it will take that heat, it will hold the glove box pad to the metal.

Gordon

[Missed Approach]

Hi All- Finally got around to my repair this past weekend. Removal was very straightforward- pulled the knee pad (two 8mm nuts and a single screw) then four (4) 8mm nuts holding the door in place. Removed the lock as well.

I thoroughly cleaned the steel pan and the pad of the old adhesive. Krud Kutter Ultra Power and fine steel wool did the trick.

I used 3" Clamps and 12" x 2.5" x 3/4" wood slats (along with two Post-It pads) and paper towels to cover the slats.

The JB Weld (the Original in the little 2 oz. tubes) was applied with a stiff bristled 1" wide paintbrush (I cut the bristles down to about 1" in height as well) The paintbrush made the application of the JB Weld very controllable. 24 hours to set- really pleased with the result!





After...


After...

[rudwinla]

Missed Approach,
Thank you for the details and photos. I'm going to follow your lead!

[Missed Approach]

Thanks @rudwinla (and welcome aboard!) The cover has been rock solid since the fix- JB Weld Original has quite the hold!

[mhackney]

Missed Approach - seriously entertaining video!

[Missed Approach]

Thanks @mhackney-You've created a great registry!

[930slant]

Loved the cooking video!

[jgurnari]

can someone tell me how to get the glove box door of my 1985 911?
and which "glue" is best to adhere the glove box door to the frame....it does get hot in the car at times.

Thanks!

[jgurnari]

But my problem is, as you will see in the photo, it looks like it is welded. am I wrong, can this be a weld? or am I able to take off the door somehow after removing all screws?
I was able to remove the knee pad and get to the screws...and I did strip one...here is a hint..you can use a 5/16 socket and get behind the screw to remove it which i did even with the stripped screw!

[jgurnari]

But my problem is, as you will see in the photo, it looks like it is welded. am I wrong, can this be a weld? or am I able to take off the door somehow after removing all screws?
I was able to remove the knee pad and get to the screws...and I did strip one...here is a hint..you can use a 5/16 socket and get behind the screw to remove it which i did even with the stripped screw!

[Missed Approach]

Hi @jgurnari- That circular area in your photo looks unfamiliar- I do not believe it is a weld point. That being said, this video, while for a 1972, should be of help on the actual door removal, as our '84-89 911's are similar...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deVmUByHADg

After door removal, I then peeled the foam/vinyl facia off the steel frame by hand, and cleaned both sides with a citrus adhesive remover. I used JB Weld (original) 2oz. and a 1 inch wide paintbrush whose bristles I cut down to 1/2 inch. (see below images) I hope this helps!

[911Maverick]

This is a great find and good info. My glove box vinyl is also coming up at the corners, now I know what to do!

[Pedro '84 Coupe]

Originally Posted by jgurnari

But my problem is, as you will see in the photo, it looks like it is welded. am I wrong, can this be a weld? or am I able to take off the door somehow after removing all screws?
I was able to remove the knee pad and get to the screws...and I did strip one...here is a hint..you can use a 5/16 socket and get behind the screw to remove it which i did even with the stripped screw!

You have to remove the glove box to get at the nuts on the other side of that welded-on piece. Unscrew the Phillips head screw to loosen the strap holding the box. Try an 8mm wrench to keep from stripping the nuts. There are four nuts holding the door.

[s2per]

Reviving an old thread here. The glove box door on my’ 86 had started to separate badly on the corners. Getting the lower pad off was a bit of a challenge but once the door was off, it was an easy fix. I removed the pad, cleaned the surfaces and mixed the JB Weld. My clamps looked just like Missed Approach’s and the finished result was excellent. Just in time for Werks and RadWood at Amelia! Thanks guys!

[darrin]

has anybody done this successfully without removing the door?