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915 stuck in reverse, help needed
I have just reinstalled the engine and transmission in to my 72 after some engine out work. I have replaced the shift fork seal at the bottom and in shift shaft input seal among other stuff.
Now the 915 is stuck in reverse and I can not access the 5th-reverse plane. It sort of shifts in to 1-2-3-4 but feels odd. I have not started the engine nor driven it. I was pretty careful not to move anything when replacing the shift fork seal. I have studied the various threads related to this topic, but has not been able to find a situation exactly like mine. Thanks for any feedback Is this as simple as the reverse light shift thing or something more serious😳
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Hans / 1972T MFI coupe |
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Sounds like the alignment of the shifter when bolted to the selector shaft is a tad off?
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lake wales fla
Join Date: Feb 2017
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So what happens when you put it in 1-4 gear and try to let the clutch out, if the engine stalls it is stuck in two gears at the same time. If it still moves in reverse than it sounds like you may have a problem with the shifter bushings or the shift coupler bushings or basic adjustment.
More info will help in a diagnosis. I see you are saying that you have not started the engine, how do you know it is stuck in reverse ? Richard Last edited by porschyard; 04-13-2023 at 04:32 AM.. |
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I had this happen when I didn't have the shift rod secured properly and was out of alignment. After I selected reverse it got stuck there and had the same symptoms; I could row through 1-4 but getting into 5-R was difficult and any gear selected while running resulted in reverse and stalling.
Lift up the rear wheels off the ground to take the tension off the box and try to reset the shift rod at the front or the coupler as necessary. My issue was at the front as that was where I had worked prior. |
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Thanks for the replies.
The transmission shifted flawless before I dropped the engine and the shift coupler was removed from the shaft using he set screw, i.e. no changes has been made to the shifter adjustment. I have removed the shifter fork and checked the alignment of the 1-2 and 3-4 shifter shafts OK. The 5-reverse shaft is pushed all the way forward, as in reverse engaged. And I tried to roll the car and the engine tries to turn clockwise when pushed back. Sp reverse it is. Depressing the clutch and moving through the gears makes no difference. I can not move the shifter to the 5-reverse plane. I have no idea to how this has happened with the transmission out of the car and no internal movements. It was stored upright with the bell housing down, but how would that screw up the box? I will start checking the reverse light contact pin.
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Push the pin in. Has the trans been apart in the past?
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Quote:
There is no obvious signs of a previous rebuild, but I can’t tell for sure.
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lake wales fla
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Quote:
Grab the plug in the pic with a small pair of channel locks and twist back and forth while pushing up, they usually are not real tight as it is just a interference fit If in doubt stick a slim magnet down the bore and if you come out with a lockout pin then that is a no-go, this will allow the trans to be in two gears at the same time. Not saying this is your problem but it fairly easy to check and one more diagnosis to confirm or eliminate. Richard ![]() ![]() |
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PCA Member since 1988
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Ditto what Mike said. If it worked fine before you dropped the transmission, I would look very carefully at the alignment of the coupling and shifter. Did you do anything to the shifter while the tranny was out? Any possibility that the shaft going into the tranny got bent while removing or installing? Try this: Undo the coupler at the set screw and pull the long shift rod out of the way. See if you can shift the transmission manually from the shift shaft alone. Try rolling the car back and forth while shifting too.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! Last edited by PeteKz; 04-13-2023 at 04:13 PM.. |
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Solved!,
Pressing the reverse switch pin did the trick. And it was surprisingly easy. My 2 cents : drain the gearbox oil, support the transmission with a jack, remove the transmission mount, remove the speedo cable, undo and remove the reverse switch (22 mm ring spanner), remove the pin using a magnet, insert a 4 mm drill bit (shaft side inwards) , place a small block of wood on the chassis and use a small prybar to push in the drill bit. My drill bit was approx. 80 mm in length and protrudes out of the gearbox allowing the trick with the prybar. The only tricky bit was inserting the wires in to the switch. Lesson learned: keep the transmission in neutral when removing and installing! Thanks all.
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Hans / 1972T MFI coupe Last edited by motomiata; 04-14-2023 at 03:56 AM.. |
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Quote:
I ended up taking the drivetrain out again, front cover off the transmission and popped it back out of reverse. Didn't think of the switch pin, brilliant. |
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Gotta remember that too.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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ok... what stops it from happening again?
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Original Owner
Join Date: Dec 2002
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Should be in every engine drop check list......"keep the transmission in neutral when removing and installing....."
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Transmission interlocks should keep it from happening. On mine I think it was the impact of the crash and inertia of reverse gear that made it move forward and lock into gear, normally the gearshift rod would be in the right position to pull it back out of reverse, but not if it goes in by itself.
OP's shifter rod must have moved when he replaced the shift fork seal |
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Original Owner
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Here's a pic of exactly where the shift rod arm/lever should be when the fork is out and you are replacing the seal.
You can manually manipulate the rod to get things back like this before you reset the fork in there. Get it right! ![]() When you set the plate w fork back in, make sure you straddle the arm/lever. ![]()
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I'm waiting on a nut to finish putting a transmission together so could move stuff around while looking inside and figure it out, at least that's how it appears to me.
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