Rebuilding Axles in Los Angeles

[Jack Olsen]

I have four axles with slits in the boots, all promptly removed.

Does anyone know of a Los Angeles outfit that re-packs GKN Loebro axles?

[shoooo32]

It's a messy job, but any indy shop working on 911s should be able to service halfshafts. Our host sells the kits. If you don't mind burning through three rolls of paper towels and smelling like grease for a week, you can do them yourself with nothing more than a snap-ring pliers.

[winders]

With your garage you should be able to rebuild them yourself.....

[stevie 77 930]

I have used these guys for a bunch of stuff....air pumps, starters, alternators and axles

B-Z Rebuilders
7745 Alabama Ave. Unit #2
Canoga Park, CA 91304
818-703-9228

https://bzrebuilders.com/

[OldSpool87]

Not a hard job but messy as all get out as Shoooo points out above.

[john walker's workshop]

Your buddy Tyson?

[thetorch]

If you do it yourself, get a fresh box of nitrile gloves. You will need it.

Also, I recommend using Redline CV2 grease. The new GKN Loebro axles I bought had such thin grease it made a huge mess under my car because it liquified and was spun all over everything: wheels, trailing arms, heat exchangers, starter, transmission, brake cables, heater boxes, underbody, rear shocks. Total, freaking mess.

I had to repack them, even though they were new. Zero problems with Redline CV2.

[88911coupe]

I did this myself many years ago...I think I'm still finding that grease on me and all over the garage. I don't know how it got so messy.

[Tremelune]

You'll laugh, but those Flexx Boots work well...Cut the old sucker off, slide the new sucker on:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spNIteA0LPQ&t=300s&ab_channel=RaidenMotors

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by OldSpool87

Not a hard job but messy as all get out as Shoooo points out above.

Yes, a mess. I found dipping in kerosine overnight to help. Then take the CV's apart and spray off with brake cleaner. Reassemble and push grease in until you get sick of doing it. Push on the boots, clamp and Done.

[Noah930]

I'm no ace mechanic, but with the aid of slodave I replaced the CV joints on my car at home. I think the hardest part was getting the axles off and back on. But you've got that scissors lift, which is nicer/higher than squeezing under a car on jackstands.

I bought the rebuild kit sold here on Pelican, and like others have noted I went through half a box of gloves and a roll or two of paper towels. I also spread a lotta newspaper all over my work surfaces to make cleaning up easier. Took an afternoon to get it done.

[Tommy Z]

It was one of the first project I ever did on my 911. I found it pretty rewarding and not terribly difficult. Yeah, it can get a little messy but that's half the fun!

[Jack Olsen]

Thanks. I know I could do it. But I've got five of the axles sitting here, and I wonder if a generic axle shop could do that kind of quantity more efficiently than me.

Since I've been replacing the axles about every 2 years, I've gotten very fast at that job. The torque specs are committed to memory.

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by Jack Olsen

Thanks. I know I could do it. But I've got five of the axles sitting here, and I wonder if a generic axle shop could do that kind of quantity more efficiently than me.

Since I've been replacing the axles about every 2 years, I've gotten very fast at that job. The torque specs are committed to memory.

How much track time before you need to replace them? What's the first indication that it's time?

I checked my CV joints before this past track season and am curious how long they generally last.

[Jack Olsen]

Originally Posted by Locker537

How much track time before you need to replace them? What's the first indication that it's time?

I checked my CV joints before this past track season and am curious how long they generally last.

My engine and transaxle have been moved forward 35mm, which means the angle the axle rotates at is slightly more acute. I assume this means there's more stress on the CV joints. But in 21 years of tracking the car, I've only ever had an axle fail onece. Since then, the only issue has been the inside boot splitting open. The ones I've re-packed and re-booted in the past appeared fine, so I don't know if the more-acute angle is actually having any effect on the cage or balls in the CV joint. But I get enough split boots that I can probably conclude that the angle is harder on the rubber.

Or the boots are now made of lousy Chinese rubber? But I don't see it as a common problem on the board, so I've assumed it's something about my setup.

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by Jack Olsen

My engine and transaxle have been moved forward 35mm, which means the angle the axle rotates at is slightly more acute. I assume this means there's more stress on the CV joints. But in 21 years of tracking the car, I've only ever had an axle fail onece. Since then, the only issue has been the inside boot splitting open. The ones I've re-packed and re-booted in the past appeared fine, so I don't know if the more-acute angle is actually having any effect on the cage or balls in the CV joint. But I get enough split boots that I can probably conclude that the angle is harder on the rubber.

Or the boots are now made of lousy Chinese rubber? But I don't see it as a common problem on the board, so I've assumed it's something about my setup.

That's interesting. Inside boot probably sees more consistent and longer duration heat as well.

[Joe Bob]

I sent mine on exchange to Eric at PMB Performance. I had one set rebuilt with new boots and fresh grease by the late Kaptain Krusty in Santa Maria CA. They lasted a very short time.

He gave me a fair price for my cores and in exchange I got new CVs on fresh axles and new boots. Kwik swap and been good for ten years now.

[Tremelune]

This isn't particularly scientific, but the Flexx Boot feels more...flexible than the OEM boot. Perhaps it would last longer in your high-angle setup.

I guess it depends on whether it's being cut by the clamp or stretching/fatiguing and tearing...

This is not an ad for Flexx Boot...I just know they can stretch quite a bit...

[Maltese Falcon]

I use these c/v boots, combined with the high-angle / deep-plunging c/v joints from McKenzie Performance in the OC (no affiliation). Also assembled with Krytox brand lube.

[winders]

Originally Posted by Jack Olsen

My engine and transaxle have been moved forward 35mm, which means the angle the axle rotates at is slightly more acute. I assume this means there's more stress on the CV joints. But in 21 years of tracking the car, I've only ever had an axle fail onece. Since then, the only issue has been the inside boot splitting open. The ones I've re-packed and re-booted in the past appeared fine, so I don't know if the more-acute angle is actually having any effect on the cage or balls in the CV joint. But I get enough split boots that I can probably conclude that the angle is harder on the rubber.

Or the boots are now made of lousy Chinese rubber? But I don't see it as a common problem on the board, so I've assumed it's something about my setup.

Jack,

What fore/aft angle are you seeing with your axles?

Jack, or anyone else:

What angle does the 87-89 Carrera have? Compared to a 915, the G50 style gearboxes have the output flanges about an inch farther forward on the car. So a 915-based car will have less angle.