3.2 engine out service, what else should replace?
 

Hi folks, I am in the middle of my first engine out service on my 85 77,000 mile 3.2 coupe. I had oil leaks galore, and some vacuum leaks as well. I have a crunchy first gear syncro also, I am going to send the 915 out for a rebuild. Since pulling the motor and trans I have been busy cleaning 37 years of crud from every surface I can now reach, my engine insulation pad had disintegrated years ago so I scraped all of that crappy glue off everything. I am considering painting the engine bay and not reinstalling the chintzy insulation that I sourced from our host, I think my black on black car would look cleaner with a fresh coat of por 15 over the muddy off white underseal from porsche,its kind of disappointing the bay looks as standard, though being a reasonably low milage and mostly original it's never going to be a concours contender,so why not?. I intend to replace all of the oil return tubes and replace as many seals and gaskets as I can get to. I am going to do a valve adjustment as well. I'd appreciate it if you folk can offer any extra advice on the (while you are in there) list.?
Thanks. Andrew

Fuel lines (your engine is out do the tunnels also if you can)
Any suspension items for the arms if you want as you can access the bolts with engine out
Triangle o ring, gasket, switch.
Rubber connecting both intakes
Clean injectors right before install so they don't sit around
vacuum lines
spark plugs
wires
rotor
cap
coil
Clean all grounds
Clean all fuel rails
Check FPR and Damper, replace if needed

clutch

remove oil cooler and pressure test for leaks.

While you have the oil cooler out look for the thin spot in the casting that may be leaking as per one of the service bulletins. Rear swing arm bushings previously mentioned.

Thank you for the feedback

I just cleaned my engine bay up, as long as the engine is pretty nobody really notices it. I hate the factory sound pad, so I used a quilted gold foil backed by butyl rubber that I custom made for it. I like it a lot:

https://i.imgur.com/uam014r.jpg

oil cooler 3 seals when checking the oil cooler as mentioned. 2 are same size 1 is different size.
Cam lines ok?
You are opening the can of worms like lots of us have when we go in there. I just went through the 40 year old "change ups" to sure things up.

I think an engine bay sound pad is worth having; I would source a NOS pad if possible.

Why tho? All that pad is doing is stopping the resonance of that big flat panel. You can accomplish this with tons of different types of sound deadening pads, and it's not very visible. I don't understand paying a premium for something like that unless it's a factory style restoration.

The temp sensor, and two crank sensors.
Check and replace (as needed) the throttle linkage on the rear of the engine nearest the firewall.

I already have a replacement pad from pelican, I read a thread where someone had installed it with magnets, I think I will paint the engine bay and use the magnets to attach the pad.

Don't forget to buy some CV joint gaskets too--the paper ones that go between the joint and the flange. Another good thing to do is install the metal covers/caps that go on the CV joints if it doesn't already have them. That makes it much less of a mess to remove and handle the axle

I ordered some but they were for different axles, so I just torqued them down without them. So far no grease flying out. Idk if they're necessary.

following... acquiring a drivetrain for my roller in the coming weeks and want to do what I can while I have it all out as well.

My cvs have the caps, there weren't any gaskets when I removed them.

Since you have the transmission off and are rebuilding it - obviously take a hard look at the clutch parts, rear main seal etc. When I had my engine out for the clutch job, I wish I had bitten the bullet and had all of the exhaust hardware replaced just to make any future work less painful.

I ordered a new sachs clutch and pressure plate, and throw out bearing. I also have a new rear main seal.

I heard that Dilavar studs need to be replaced ..... that can only done with the engine out. And the heads have to come off anyway, why not replace the valve guide seals.