How to jump wires on the 14 pin connector

[joe912/62]

Trying to find out why my backup lights keep blowing fuse 11 and making my turn signals inoperable. I read to disconnect the 14 pin connector and jump #5 and 6 to see if the back up lights come on. I also tested by pulling the wires from the switch and unfortunately one wire pulled out of the bullet connector. I roughly connected them together and no back up lights and also blew the fuse again. I tested for power on the 14 pin connector #5 and it does but I don't know how to make a correct jumper wire to join 5 to 6 because it has the male pin and not the socket.

[timmy2]

Small Alligator clips wired together.

[john walker's workshop]

Modify your post info to include year of your car and where you live please. Lots of guess work otherwise. Read timmy2's post above to see how he did it.

[joe912/62]

I have a 82 SC and I'm located in Montreal Canada.
I repaired the bullet connectors by removing the old solder in the bullet and was able to re use it.
I removed the 14 pin connector and tested #5 for power at the male end and it does. I also checked #6 which goes to the backup lights and I'm getting continuity to the bulb post. After re-attaching the bullet connectors I checked for continuity from the wire at the back up switch to both #5 and 6 on the female side of the 14 pin connector. I'm also getting continuity if I connect both of the backup switch wires. Am I missing something? I know from the electrical diagram that fuse 11 also is connected to the emergency flasher.

[PeteKz]

Joe, put your location and car model in your profile so everyone can see those without you retyping them every time. Better yet, put them in your signature line.

[PeteKz]

This is not a hard problem to diagnose. On the 14 pin connector on your engine harness, test for continuity between the pin that goes TO the reverse switch and the one that comes FROM the reverse switch. There should be no continuity when the transmission is not in reverse. There should be continuity when it is in reverse. There should be no continuity to ground from either wire, whether in reverse or not.

Next, with the key off, on the chassis side of the 14 pin connector, test for continuity to ground from the pin that provides power TO the reverse switch. There should be no continuity to ground. Then test for resistance to the pin that goes to the back up lights. It should have a small resistance, about 3 ohms, which is the resistance through the backup bulbs. It should not be zero.

If you find any continuity to ground with zero resistance, that part of the circuit is blowing your fuse.

Post your testing results.

[joe912/62]

Okay so I ran a wire when I had the bullet connectors disconnected on the back up switch from green/ yellow wire which goes to #5 on the 14 pin connector which is power and got continuity. I then ran a wire from the grey/brown bullet connector on the back up switch to #6 of the 14 pin connector and got continuity, this feeds the backup lights. The transmission was in reverse with key off.

[Nditiz1]

We are trying to help you learn the basics on checking wiring in your car, but you are not listening. Re-read PeteKz's entire comment.

What you did was fine, but all you tested was that from the 14 pin connector to the bullets are not broken. You still have a issue with your switch as you have continuity when not in reverse. You also need to check if the switch has continuity to ground - it should NOT.

Your issue lies in two places, 1 is with your switch, the other is with a wire grounding out. You can have a grounding wire and continuity. At no time in any of these wire tests should you have continuity between any wire and ground except for the bulb holder which grounds to complete the circuit back to the battery. I have seen cases where bulbs were in such a bad shape they were blowing fuses. You should check those as well.

I believe you said in your initial post that you only blew a fuse if you put the car in reverse. Have you made the fuse blow any other time with the bullet connectors NOT in the switch?

[joe912/62]

I appreciate everyone's help and believe me I'm listening and reading all the posts to my questions. You have to forgive me but electrical wiring is not my forte. I have never tried without the bullet connectors in the switch but I can try that to see if I get the fuse to blow. And the transmission was in reverse when I got continuity.

[joe912/62]

Does it matter what color wire of the bullet connectors insert into the switch? I can't find anything on the switch or wiring diagram.

[john walker's workshop]

Doesn't matter.

[PeteKz]

Joe, here's a secret I learned a long time ago, even before I got to engineering school: The flow of electricity in wires and circuits is almost perfectly analogous to the flow of water in pipes, valves, hydraulic accumulators and such. If you can visualize electricity flowing through wires like water flowing through pipes, you will "see" how this works. Now, think about water flowing from the fuse, through wire to the 14-pin connector, then to the reverse switch, then back to the 14-pin connector, then to the backup lights. You have to test each one of those sections to make sure there aren't any "leaks" (grounds, short circuits) or blocks (broken wires, open circuits).

[John W.]

Good analogy Pete!

[rokemester]

Helpful thread! Many of us, me included struggle with automotive electrics. Some thoughtful, patient comments here.

[joe912/62]

So I tested for continuity at the back up switch wires at the bullets with the transmission not in reverse and got continuity and a 2.4 Ohm reading. I left the wires unplugged and replaced the blown fuse and pull into reverse and flashers work and fuse is good.
Do you think it could be the pin inside the backup switch that is stuck? Again thanks for your patience with me.

[PeteKz]

That's better info. At this point, it appears that the switch is bad because it has a "ground fault."

Now, remember that you test a "circuit" which consists of two points at a time. When you say you tested for continuity "at the bullets", that doesn't tell us which bullet you used, or which two points you tested between.

Did you get 2.4 ohms by testing from the bullet (point 1) that goes back to the 14-pin connector and then to the backup light (should be the gray and brown wire), with the other lead of your meter connected to ground (point 2)? If so, then you measured through the backup light bulb, which gave you the 2.4 ohm reading. That means that the circuit from the backup light switch to the bulb, to ground, is good. Let's move back to the switch.

Since it appears you have the car up on stands and can get to the backup light switch, leave both bullets unplugged. Now test the backup switch by putting one test lead into one socket and the other to the transmission case. Then test the other socket to the transmission case. Then put the transmission in reverse, and test from each socket to the case again. You should not have continuity from either of the sockets to the case, with the transmission in reverse or not in reverse. If you do, the switch is bad, and that is what pops your fuse.

Tell us your results.

[joe912/62]

Thanks Pete I may have done the test wrong, I had the multimeter on both bullet connectors and got that reading but I will try it as you suggest instead. I also tested the switch by inserting a metal wire where the bullets go in and get continuity between the terminals when in reverse and no continuity when in neutral. I will test it your way next. Should this be done with the ignition on?
I also used a power probe tool which I have to see if the actual sockets at the back up light were getting power. With ignition on and the 2 bullet connectors jumped I probed the socket with the other probe wire to ground I get 0 volts. Any thoughts? Again thanks for your help.

[PeteKz]

Do these tests with the ignition off. You are using the "Ohms" function of your meter. When you test for live wires, then you switch to DC Volts and turn on the ignition. Not yet.

Tony also started a thread on testing the backup lights. Be sure to read that one too. But don't jump around in your testing. Let's stay focused on the switch and make sure it does not have a "ground fault." Do the tests for continuity to the transmission case from the two switch sockets that I described above. Report your results.

[joe912/62]

Here are some results
3.1 ohms from grey/ brown bullet connector to ground at transmission case.
No continuity at both switch sockets to ground with transmission in neutral and reverse.
I also tried jumping at the 14 pin connector with the backup switch plugged in. Ignition on, transmission in neutral. I put a wire with an alligator clip to #5 and as soon as I touched #6 with the other end I got a spark but no lights and fuse 11 did not blow.

[PeteKz]

Good. Your test of the switch appears to indicate it does not have a ground fault. That's curious to me, as your previous testing seemed to indicate that the fuse would blow when you put it in reverse, thus activating the switch. Okay, let's move on.

Your test from the gray/brown wire bullet connector to the case used this circuit: Gray/Brn wire to 14 pin connector to backup bulbs to ground, and back to the transmission case, which completed the circuit. The backup bulbs are giving you the 3 ohms of resistance, and that's good to know, because that means the the wires are not shorted to ground, or your test would show zero resistance. As before, that test shows that part of the circuit is good.

Now let's re-do the test of jumping from Pin 5 to Pin 6 at the connector. You said you got a spark, and the fuse did not blow. A small spark indicates that power was flowing to the bulbs. Your backup lights should have come on. Try it again and look closely, as they are not very bright in daylight. And be careful to make sure you are only connecting those two pins--it's easy to brush one of the other pins because they are close together. Look t the other thread where Tony shows how he does it.