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Door Latch Stopped Working Passenger Side, 1988 Cab..
So locked my doors with the key during a ride this morning and passenger door would not unlock from the outside. Opened it from the inside. Usually I can mess with it and it starts working again but this time, the outside latch seems to be disconnected from the mechanism. No matter what I do with the lock, there is no tension on the latch trigger. I can open it from the inside but that is it. It also wants to bounce rather than latch unless I lock the door. Then the door will stay closed but only unlock from inside. I have my door card off but the entire mechanism is buried under the window tracks.
Is the next step to remove the outside handle by undoing the nuts from the inside? I'm really stumped on this one. |
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No response so I started taking the door apart. Removed the door panel, huge PIA and unbolted the door handle. Rear nut on the handle is almost impossible to access. Will be a huge issue to get it back on. Found the plate that the door handle trigger pushes on was stuck. Lubed it up and assume it will be ok. Read several posts that talked about replacing the spring that pulls this back into position but assume it would take total disassembly to get to it. Big job for such a small issue.
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PCA Member since 1988
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People are reading, just don't have much to say. Lubing the plate and its pivot points should do the job. If not, then a stronger return spring, etc. "While you're in there" consider how far you have to pull the trigger to get the door latch to release. As that mechanism wears, you have to pull the trigger closer and closer to the door handle, until there isn't quite enough room left. It's been awhile since I adjuste mine to get clearance back, so I don't remember how I did it, but it should be obvious.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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Thanks. I got the door working ok until I lock it and then the problem returns. The plate hangs up and it takes a bunch of fumbling around to get it to pop. Can you lead me toward a source for info on how to change the spring and adjust the plate?
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Quote:
I had to take the driver's side door card off three times to fix a) a broken inside door handle spring, and b) fix a problem where the window wouldn't drop down 1/4" when the door was opened ('02 C2). Removing the entire door handle mechanism was indeed a PITA, but removing the door card was a piece of cake on my third try. If the spring inside your door latch is broken or the parts are worn, I don't know whether the internal door latch parts are available -- you might just have to get another door latch.
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2009 Porsche 911 C2S, 2002 Porsche C2S (traded) |
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PCA Member since 1988
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Sorry, other than using the search function, I don't have a handy reference to point you to. I know there are threads about stiff or broken latches and lock mechanisms. I fixed mine by looking at it and seeing what needed to be done, but I have a lot of experience at fixing stuff!
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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Thanks. I’ve not taken this car to anyone else for mechanical work. I’ve been able to do everything on my own. Removing the window and tracks has me concerned. I have not bought a repair manual yet, think this would be covered? Not seeing good info on the web.
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Found the fix. The shaft that the plate slides on had dry crusty grease on it. Once I got that scraped off, all was good. Re lubed and it no longer sticks , reassembled the door and good for spring rides.
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Dallas
Posts: 3,599
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Well just a heads up but on my 88 the nylon "internals" of the door latch cracked and fell out. Took me a while to figure out what it was but door was acting odd till replaced it.
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Buck '88 Coupe, '87 Cab, '88 535i sold, '19 GLC 300 DD Warren Hall, gone but not forgotten |
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PCA Member since 1988
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Yes, after 40-ish years, many of those plastic bits re cracking and falling apart. Anytime you are insider the door and can replace them, it's a good idea. Likewise for the bushings on the shift rod and throttle rods inside the tunnel.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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