Shift coupler broken
 

Greetings, thankfully this happened in 2nd gear so I was able to slowly drive home…

Pin in shift coupler is completely missing… cannot seem to find.

Any recommendations on replacements. Should I buy Stomski or Rennline or stick with OEM (haven’t purchased from Pelican in a while and it is confusing to see my options.

Also ate there other things I should replace at the same time?

Much appreciated.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684695520.jpg

i`d say it is there ....plus you have the rubber booth there too ..so ,it is there.I would reinstall it back..while doing that you will most likely find out why the pin has left the coupler;-)That does not happen usually,unless someone grind it...

ivan

Actually reached forward now and found the pin. I just slid it back in. How do you make sure that it stays in place. I don’t see any clips.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684697870.jpg

it should be very hard to place it back ,if not you might need new coupler or your options you have mentioned above..The pic is bad cannot see anything...if it was grind or not?
ivan

It was easy to slide back in. Will purchase a new coupling. Should I go OEM or get stomski,or Rennline?

Also, assuming, I can temporarily clamp until new one comes in

ok if it easy to put back ..use a hammer and chisel to make some marks on the shaft so it is hard to insert it.I personally like stock..many others like the updates..

Ivan

The answer to which to buy rests largely with what you use the car for?if it’s not for DE and track events then the standard coupler is fine, you could upgrade it with Superpro bushes or go for something like the Stomski. However, couplers like the Stomski will transmit more ‘noise' into your car.

Just replace the bushings.

The pin is already out.

Thanks everyone for all your help. Ordered parts on Pelican and should get them next week.

Just installed a Stromski coupler and jwest clamp yesterday. So far so good. Although, inspecting my stock coupler revealed a very tight, like new stock coupler so I guess I wasted a few hundred bucks.

I had a machine shop drill a longitudinal hole through my pins so i could safety-wire it in place.
Just loop the wire over the entire coupler.

I once had one fall out on the return trip from Amelia Island.

Now all three of my cars carry this mod.

Bill K

This happened to me on a rally. One rap of gorilla tape and we were rolling again. After 200k miles the pin was worn enough that it wouldn't stay in place. I replaced it with a Stomski coupler that will easily last another 200k miles.

The Stompski coupler is better than oem. At least in my opinion.

Yea it’s nice.

About the clamp, any one handed clamp that is supposedly easier to adjust with one hand….my observation is that they are actually more difficult to get the adjustment perfect because you no longer have the counter force from opposing wrenches. Instead you gotta hold the rod in place by holding the shift knob against the force of the one wrench tightening the clamp…not easy or precise. A bit of a scam the way they are promoted. Noticed it immediately and it pissed me off

That's because the Stomski has no internal bushing, it's metal to metal, isn't it ?

I put 50 miles on the Stromski and haven’t noticed any increased noise. Maybe it’s there but no way I could hear any slight increase over my engine sound. No way.

I've noticed my fifth gear has more whine under load with the stomski, which is especially annoying since the whole trans was just rebuilt. Considering just adding some sound deadening to the bump and tunnel cover.

Well that sucks. I have a new single-bolt clamp sitting on my workbench right now. Is it that the thing twists and shifts while trying to torque up?

Have only disassembled the stock coupler a few times and realized that the pin is slightly larger on 1/2 of the pin or the receiving hole. It appeared to be stuck when trying to press it out, reversed the removal direction and it came out with far less pressing.

If a previous person chose to keep pressing (pounding) the pin through the larger side, it has distorted the female portion and would likely not have a tight fit.

As recommended above use a chisel tapped into the sides around the center of the pin to increase its outside diameter to regain the snug fit. Bump it up slightly and do two or three sides of the pin.

Interestingly the current Stomski vid mentions a plastic fitting on the set screw, a locking washer perhaps, presumably to secure it further compared to the OEM setup with is metal to metal.

yes thats it. give it a try and let me know if i am overreacting

i bought it because i wanted something shiny and new. if there is one thing i have learned with these cars that usually dictates every decision is that if it is not broken, do not fix or replace. leave it alone. in this case, i failed myself :mad: