How long to drop the engine?
 

Might be a silly question, but about how long does it take to drop an engine/tranny set on a 911 if you've got a 2-post lift, a hydraulic table cart, and every tool known to mankind? It LOOKS easy, but surely there's a gotcha there somewhere. Do you have to take a beer break while the oil drains, or is it really an under-an-hour process like it appears to be?

If you do it a lot, about an hour or so. 1st time, maybe 2-3ish. Carbed engines are pretty easy, CIS and Carreras and later are more work.

I’ve done exactly one drop (also assisted by cart and scissor lift), and working very slowly it took me probably 4 hours. I was expecting many “gotchas”, but there were none that I can recall. A good checklist is probably priceless though - there are lots here and in the books, but the FCP euro blog has one by a member with lots of photos that is very helpful.

Plan for two-three hours taking it step by step the 1st time (with no gotchas like stripped CV bolts, etc.), an hour or less once you have confidence and experience.

Agree with all the above. I have done it exactly one time on an 83SC. I have a scissor lift, hydraulic table end every tool known to mankind as well. Set the day aside but it really just took 2-3 hours with no help.

It's fast and relatively easy, the only part that stinks is doing the CV bolts. Without a helper they're just a chore.

The first time I dropped my engine was in 1998 for an engine rebuild and it took four hours to unhook and remove. Since then, i have pulled the motor four times. The most recent engine drop was for a blown airbox that was two years ago, and it took just over an hour to remove. Initially, I removed the airbox by doing a partial engine drop and it was back breaking work. So, I decided to pull the motor for the reinstall of the airbox and to do a smoke test of the CIS vacuum lines before reinstalling of the motor. For the first engine drop in 1998 I built a "U" shaped dolly (found the plans on Rennlist). The "U" shaped dolly allowed me to remove the jack once the engine was dropped. I still have the dolly stored in the garage waiting for the next time its needed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685633407.JPG

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I found a way to do CV bolts easily with no helper. Did all of them while staying under the car on jack stands and not having to climb into car.
Just left the parking break off and removed rear wheels, put the right socket on center wheel nut with a big ratchet and a cheater bar long enough to touch ground and be locked into position. Set the ratchet to clockwise or anti-clockwise, depending on wheel and, then you can unscrew each bolt, with the ratchet and cheater bar acting like a parking break, while turning the CV by hand in the opposite "ratchet-clicking" direction.
Don't know if this is clear. Anyway it was fun and easy, and of course it works for both removal and install.

Drop the engine and tranny together. When I auto xed I had two trannies, 7 and 8:31. Depending on event, I could swap them in a little over 2 hours if very motivated. Now, F that noise, too old and I no longer auto x so the 831 is in for good.

I used a motorcycle Jack.. nice and low.
I don't have a lift or anything. Just lots
Of cribbing. Didn't have to take the rear
bumpers off. Done it several times and gets
Easier once you get everything laid out.
Good luck!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685634045.jpg

That's a good idea! I've been using a pry-bar between the wheel studs against the ground and while it works your idea sounds tons more reliable.

I suppose the pros would simply impact them off in 5 minutes with the car on the lift. No need to get under, undo one or two, turn the wheels, do the next bunch etc with the trusty ratchet or remove the wheels and somehow lock the hub or have someone climb in the car and engage the brakes.

Sounds like some additional tools are in order for my next drop.

What took a great deal of time for me was documenting all the bits and cables as I disassembled to make sure I could get it back together.

After watching a few youtube videos, i did my first drop in about 4 hours on a 3.2. I used HF motorcycle jack and plywood plate. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685674168.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685674168.jpg

I did use an impact for removal, and indeed it took no less than 5 minutes per wheel.

But for install, no impact can be used, and that's when you need to tighten all six bolts around and do another round with torque wrench for proper torque. Then comes into play this trick with the ratchet and cheater bar or if you don't have a cheater bar have the ratchet rest on something tall enough, like a pile of wood planks. Piece of cake.

what i have learned throughout the years is this.
Let`s say if you are only removing the engine , i place the jack plate exactly under the strainer plate, no additional support is needed .The engine is perfectly balanced in the middle.
For the carrera engine the same just more to hand balance, or i use deeper jack plate.
If i remove transmission and engine,there is also perfect center point of balance.Place the jack plate right behind the exhaust cross pipe(engine side in the middle)..and it all comes out very well balanced..
So i use simple jack ....like this never had any problems...in USA i had i think blue point jack

ivan
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads26/facom_jack1685698840.jpg

For CV joints, I like to take off the wheels and wedge a screw driver into the rotor vent holes near the caliper. Works well for me. Thanks to Bruce for giving me the tip. It sure beats getting up and down for the e-brake.

Cheers

I really like the idea of using the HF motorcycle lift (esp. since it’s pretty inexpensive). Can you provide some more details in terms of the dimensions/placement of the wood blocks? Also it looks like there is a metal plate under the plywood. If so, what did you use? Thanks.

Motorcycle lift with stand
 

Mine looks like this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685710227.jpg
When I shove it under the car I add a piece of carpet on top.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685710321.jpg
I do remove the rear bumper as a full one piece assembly as that gives me an extra 6-8 inches since I just use little Harbor Freight jack stands. No fancy pants lifts.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685710484.jpg
And out it comes....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685710558.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685710731.jpg
About four leisurely hours from the car to the stand with transmission separated.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685710925.jpg

When it time to go back in, I use a separate little lift for remounting the transmission and the starter.
You young pups just grab up that 915 and set it into the bolts...easy peasy...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685711470.jpg
Hook em up...and back under it goes...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685711656.jpg
Believe me, removing the rear bumper assembly (30 minutes) gives you a lot more room to work and a lot more safety when using jack stands and you know you need to clean under there anyways.....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685711800.jpg

When I say remove the rear bumper as one assembly do it like this:
Four big bolts in back and about three little fasteners on each side for the fender skirts.
After removing the bumperettes if you got them. They come off for weight but not necessary as long as you unhook the license plate wiring and shove it back through if you leave the bumperettes on.
Just don't mess with those rubber bellows! Take it all off one big piece. You'll thank me later.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685712702.jpg

if you need to, it is even easier to disconnect the 2 front nuts rom the accordions;-)no need to remove the fender extensions....the accordions stays on the extensions.

Ivan

[QUOTE it is even easier to disconnect the 2 front nuts from the accordions;-)no need to remove the fender extensions....the accordions stays on the extensions.

Ivan[/QUOTE]

It's not easier that way...trust me.....

Took me 4 hours my first time, did a youtube video on it, I just had a motorcycle jack and jackstands:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/W870A-EizDE" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Don't need a beer break - just drain oil and undo CVs at the same time . . . or drain the
night before . . . ha ha . . .
Make a list of all connections to undo - - and take lots of photos for the first time . . .

Wish you the best,
Regards,
Roy T

PS: screw driver in brake caliber works for CV bolts - - 3 at a time . . .

It's not easier that way...trust me.....[/QUOTE]


what ever you prefer...did this job zillion times myself...just count the nut and bolts accordion off 4 nuts..fender ext.8 plus align the ext. seal on top of it;-)

Ivan

Or keep the wheels on the "ground" ... will never get under the car on jackstands ... rotate them as needed for easy access to the bolts on install. Torqued as you said, but also checked again after some miles.

Isby, 2x2 plate with sizes on photo. If i build something - it's sturdy. I used 1 5/8 welded strut frame. Wood and strut were scraps. Used a router to cut out the indents after pushing the 4x4 into the case a few times. Since the jack does not have the lift height to the stand, i used my lift truck to raise to stand. Second jack to get the trans up or down. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685737790.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685737790.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685737790.jpg

Maybe everyone already does it this way but, first I drop the engine down then push it forward. That gives me plenty of room to remove the small nuts on the accordions and take off the rear bumper.

+ 1 with Walt. I just embrace rear bumper removal, clean accordion nuts and studs for ease next time you are in there

Bill

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685743650.jpg

... or get the butt up higher.

Usually 1-2 hours depends if I get sidetracked!

Very impressive - thanks. This is probably a stupid question, but I’ll ask anyway … I get that the bottom of the case sits in the deep “v” in the 4x4, and that the side (1x1) pieces are to help balance the engine. But after looking at the underside of my engine (3.2), I’m not sure what part(s) of the engine sit on the side pieces.

It looks like the heat exchangers balance on the two 1x1x12

That makes sense - thanks. I’m assuming that since the vast majority of the engine weight is borne by the big block of wood in the center, the heat exchangers would not be damaged by sitting on the 1x1x12s?? As this will be my first engine drop, I’m concerned about breaking/bending the heat exchangers (or something else down there that will be a nightmare to fix).

The heat exchangers in general are about 1" lower than the engine case/sump. You want to measure the difference on yours for when you make the wood jig as who knows your setup.
In any case, the weight should be distributed across all three supports of the jig
The exchangers will not get damaged.
I throw a 3/4inch piece of carpet across there to absorb and spread the variations.
Most sump cover leaks are the result of peeps jacking up the car by the sump plate and maybe they have a drain nut sticking down. Now the plate gets a small deflection and you have a leak. So that's why you spread the weight and balance across all three points and minimize hard surface contact on the sump to the extent you can. At least your drain plug nut should be gone.

Good ideas re: the carpet and the drain plug. Much appreciated.

Old phonebooks work too, you kept some, right ?

I use an ATV jack - similar to MC jack. And a wood truss on top - simialr to post #19.
BUT - I have castor wheels on it. Drop the ATV jack to the floor, slide it out from the wood carrier, and wheel the carrier where ever you want. And you have the ATV jack to split and refit the trans on.
Alan

Lots of great advice and ingenuity here. I tried to keep my drop simple and safe and found reference to the “small drop” method which minimizes balance anxiety. It worked great, almost stress-free. In my case the engine was dropped a whole 3” and the rear end of the car was then lifted up off of it. This post in a very helpful engine-drop thread gave me the inspiration, it’s worth a look before you pull the trigger.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/714260-first-engine-drop.html#post7064285