Engine lid no popping up
 

1984 Carrera 3.2

When I pull the engine lid handle, the lid no longer pops open like it used to.

I have just enough arm length to do it, but it’s a pita.

The spring in the make portion on the lid appears in tact, not visibly broken.

Any ideas?

If the spring is intact, it should pop up at least an inch or two. Since you can reach and open it with one arm, it appears to be releasing. Your car is a Carrera, so it should have the AC evaporator inside the lid. I would be looking for something weighing down the lid or pulling down on it.

Maybe try a little lubrication around the spring and plunger to try to free it up a little

I just lubbed the latch, spring and changed the rear shocks and my early lid opens up on its own when I pull the handle.

Be very careful if you attempt to do any adjustment as you may not be able to open the lid afterwards. I advise removing the grille before adjustment, then if it sticks you can reach in and release it by hand.

Roy

likely the hinge pivots are seizing if the spring is in tact and its a factory lid.

i would NOT be adjusting that latch as mentioned or make sure you have access first

Those little adjustable rubber tits are are what pop the lid up. Screw them out or replace them.

Are you parked on a flat surface? Trying shifting the lid left and right as another person pulls the handle.

Being that you have been in the Community far longer than I, please don't take this the wrong way.. Im not challenging this statement rather looking for clarification. I've never seen hood bump stops used to pop open a hood or trunk. Aren't these typically used for fine tuning panel gaps? By turning them in or out you can set the stop depth of the hood corners allowing perfect panel alignment across the back when shut. Even without them shouldn't it pop up if the upper latch spring isn't worn and adjusted properly?

Would it be more helpful to look at a new spring and or hood strut deepening in which is worn or not working? If after releasing the latch the hood opens all the way the strut is fine. If the the hood stays down in the latched and locked position after pulling the release it either needs lubrication, adjustment, a new spring or a combination of all 3?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/NLA51105302.htm?pn=NLA-511-053-02&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8J73pMS2_wIV5S3UAR2KRwzTEAQYA SABEgImxvD_BwE

If I am wrong please let me know, I'm not nearly as knowledgeable about these car as you all and would love to know for future reference. I suppose this response is to just clarify for my own curiosity.

They do adjust the lid side to side, but also if they are extended out a bit, will pop the lid up and lift the striker out of the latch, regardless if the lid shock works or not. They act as a spring.

What the distinguished Mr. Walker possibly means is if those bumpers are bad or not properly adjusted then the rear deck possibly sits too low. This could then result in the weighted deck not popping open when the 40 year old tired spring pushes....
Maybe it needs another 2 mm....

Do what
JSV798 said. I had to cut my grill out. I have the pieces but would have to source the aluminum connecting rods. I opted to order a replacement from our host. There is a thread here about opening if stuck but it didn't work for me. It will save you about 500 to pull the grill. I had it adjusted when it was in a local shop. This was after I bought new latch hardware, again from our hosts.

I guess I should make a profile. 67 body.

Yep .. this ^^^^^

The little rubber bump stops indeed get old and hard. Instead of acting like rubber, they are like hard plastic. They are easy to replace, they just spin out, and the new ones spin in.

I would suggest you replace those first if they are old.

Just one more thing to add to my endless to do list. I can see how it would help after that spring to get the striker out of the latch. The spring at that point would be doing nothing.. thanks I suppose there are worse ways to spend 8$.