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Registered User
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Electrical trouble shooting
Greetings Pelicaners,
So I recently had some electrical problems. I was driving the car and the tachometer started bouncing, and the radio turned off then the car died. I had it towed to a local mechanic who diagnosed the problem as a dead battery. He replaced the battery and told me the alternator was fine. That lasted a couple days and then the problem started again. I thought it was the alternator. I broke down and bought myself a present I have wanted for a long time: a new WOSP alternator from classic retrofit. I love their products. I replaced the alternator, the new red wire (supplied with the alternator) and ran it to the starter, and I replaced the ground strap and attached it firmly to the engine. Everything ran fine for a couple days until the battery died again. I checked and cleaned the ground strap from the transmission to the chassis. The problem persists… What should I check next? I am recharging the battery with a trickle charger and I have disconnected the battery from the car. The battery connections are fine. Many thanks for your help |
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10-31-2023, 03:21 PM
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Registered User
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One more thing… I just noticed that the orange battery light does not turn on when I turn the key. The oil light turns on but not the battery light.
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10-31-2023, 04:31 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2023
Posts: 4
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Year? Check your voltage regulator and diodes. If anything is out of spec or weak you could be draining the battery slowly.
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10-31-2023, 05:53 PM
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PCA Member since 1988
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Battery/generator light: is it burned out? Easy to check. Pull out the instrument and then pull out the light bulb and check it. In earlier cars, the light provided a trickle voltage to the alternator to get the field initiated. If it was burned out, the alternator would not build voltage. The WOSP should not need that. But check the light anyway.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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10-31-2023, 11:14 PM
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Registered User
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Thank you Pelicaners,
The problem was indeed the indicator light. I did not know that if the light did not work, the alternator would not properly charge the battery while driving. It turns out the paddle ends of the light housing were badly corroded. I cleaned the wire ends and the paddle/connectors. Now the light is brighter than ever. Checked and the battery had 13.01 volts when cold and 14.7 when the engine was running. I think the problem is fixed. Thank you again 
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11-02-2023, 12:24 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lomita, CA
Posts: 2,700
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Quote:
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Dave |
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11-02-2023, 12:31 PM
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PCA Member since 1988
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Yeah, I thought the WOSP was self initiating, like the GM "one wire" alternators. Apparently not. At least I guessed right about checking it!
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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11-02-2023, 01:10 PM
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