Started First Valve Adjustment!

[ausgezeichnet]

So far only a few minor problems. but I've not got to the hard part yet.

I drained all the oil (it was due to be changed anyway)
Removed the plug wires and distributor cap
Tighted the fan belt about 1/2 dozen times trying to get the crankshaft to rotate. Taking it out of 1st gear really helps!
Removed the spark plugs. They look great.
Removed the catalytic converter (will be replaced with a euro pre-muffler).
Removed the top valve covers and gaskets
Removed the drivers side lower vale cover and ran into my first problem.

Instead of the the nut coming off, the whole stud unscrewed. Fortunately it did not break. How how do I get the nut off the studs and how do I screw the stud back in when I replace the valve cover?

[Nine9six]

If you put the end of your stud into the vice with soft jaws, or two pieces of wood, you should be able to remove the nut. You can also try a pair of channel locks with a rag on the jaws to protect the thds of the stud.

To reinstall, put two nuts on the stud and tighten them against each other. This is called double nutting and will allow you to drive the stud back into its location. Of course you should not use the self locking nuts that come off the stud, or any of the new self locking nuts you intend to use to buttn everything back up.

[boomvang]

You can buy new studs for not so much $$ at your local autoparts jobber. Just take the old one and have them match it. Use locktite on the portion that goes into the block, install using the double nut method mentioned above.Also, it is recommended that you leave the plugs in as it is possible debris may lodge in opened valve, causing bad reading.

[ausgezeichnet]

OK. Thanks. Next question. I figured out how to get the feeler gauge between the foot and valve stem by loosing the retaining nut and screw. It there any way to describe exactly how much resistance there should be on the feeler gauge when the adjustment is correct? Should I be able to slip back and forth freely or do I need to put a little pressure on the gauge to move it back and forth?

[BReyes]

I'm with you.

I too need to do a first valve adjustment on a fresh top end. Ah yes, TDC rotor pointing towards the notch on the distributor... hmm , wonder if I can lower the engine in ten min, get r done in a couple of hours.
Thanks for the motivation.

Good luck.

[kqw]

Originally posted by ausgezeichnet
It there any way to describe exactly how much resistance there should be on the feeler gauge when the adjustment is correct? Should I be able to slip back and forth freely or do I need to put a little pressure on the gauge to move it back and forth?

There should be drag consistent to pulling a piece of metal across a magnet.

If you have a micrometer, set it to .004", insert your gauge to get the feel of the drag.

As mentioned earlier...put the plugs back in before doing the adjustment and just a question....is your engine completely COLD?

[a-dougk1]

You do not want it to slip back and forth freely. If it does, it's too loose. The way I did it was to put the feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the valve, turn the screw until I couldn't move the feeler gauge, and then back off the screw ever so slightly (a very small fraction of a turn). The feeler guage should be able to move, although there will be resistance.

To check if you've still got it too tight, insert the feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the valve again. This can be difficult (at least it was on my engine - '79 turbo 3.3). The way I found that seemed to work best was to put the feeler gauge down between the underside of the rocker arm (that is, away from the outside of the valve covers), and then rotate the feeler gauge toward the gap. Using this technique, it usually slipped right into the gap. I never could get the feeler gauge in the gap from the outside of the rocker arm.

BTW, if you can slip the feeler gauge between the gap and feel restance on a valve you haven't adjusted yet, no adjustment is necessary. Just pointing out the obvious.

Doug

[ausgezeichnet]

Thanks for the advise. I Just finished adjusting all 12 valves. Yes the car was stone cold. I let it set overnight. I found it easier to get the feeler gauge in the exhaust valves compared to the intake valves.

As a final check after I did two round of adjusting, I pulled on the rocker arms to make sure there was a very light click which was the rocker arm moving thought the .004 inch gap and hitting the valve stem. They all seem to have about the same amount of play. Interestingly enough, before I started making adjustments I could not get the rocker arms to move at all. I am hoping the valves have been too tight and have been robing me of power. Now all I have to do is put everything back together and fire it up!

[ausgezeichnet]

Success! What an incredible improvement. Power everywhere. It's like its a new car. Thanks every one for your help. Perhaps the best part was spending about two hours with my 10 year old son letting him help me turn the wrench and answering his questions. You should have heard the pride in his voice when a neighborhood boy asked him if he wanted to play some ball, he said nope, I helping my dad fix his car!

[kqw]

Bravo.....