Brake calipers - wasn’t expecting this….

[Jtt84911]

Hi Pelicans,
Although plenty of material left on my 10 year old brake pads... decided to upgrade to Porterfield R4S’s after reading so many positive comments here.

When I removed the old pads from the front calipers unfortunately saw this!
About 50% of the rubber dust seals had become embedded in the back pad surface. I think I may have put squel deadening material on there… don’t remember.



So…. it looks like easy new pad/sensor replacement has now turned into draining brake fluid, removing frt calipers and installing new rubber seals. Right ??

Doesn’t make any sense not to replace what remains on all 4 frt. piston outer seals??
Fortunately back caliper seals are fine.

Also - wasn’t planing putting anti squel on the Porter-fields. If you have these pads w/o antisquel… any issues? Thoughts? Pls let me know.

Thanks,
JT

[Mixed76]

Looks more like the piston squished a soft material from between itself and the backing plate. What is that material, is it an anti squeal pad/ sticker?

I bet the dust seals are fine.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

[stownsen914]

That was my first thought as well. Take a look at your piston seals to verify. The other possibility is that the piston squeal stuff somehow dissolved the seals' rubber. Though it would be surprising to have a product intended to sit near brake seals and not be compatible with brake seal rubber.

[Edit: meant dust boots, not seals]

[djpateman]

It should only be the dust boots that are torn. The actual seals are several mm down in the bore. So no need to worry about the fluid unless it is due for replacement.

[emac911]

What @djpateman said. You may have overseated the piston when installing the pads and the dust boot got caught in between. I would probably remove the calipers and put them on the bench. Some of those boots can be a pain to install depending on how they are held in place. Sometimes a little lube helps and sometimes it makes them too slippery.

[PeteKz]

Agree with Mixed76. Look at the dust boots and post pictures of them.

[Jtt84911]

THANKS Guys for the reply’s!
I’m pretty sure I used adhesive backed anti squel pads versus the spray.
There are definitely pcs of rubber in the backing now and only about half of the rubber dust boots are left in the calibers…..and when I was cleaning the pad slots with cleaner more pcs of rubber were coming off when I was drying the area with rags.

And I pcould definitely see what I assume are the dust seal mounting rings exposed.

So I will order (4) replacement dust boots.

QUESTIONS:
1-What are your thought about putting anti squel on the new pads?
2- When I remove the 2 front calipers…. Will I have to remove the brake fluid….or can I insert something in the flexbrake lines…and only lose what comes out while I’m doing that? Had flushed the brake lines and added new brake fluid about 3 years ago.

JT

[Jtt84911]

BTW…. can’t take any pics now because I needed to move the car in my garage and had to put the wheels back on

[manbridge 74]

I avoid any goop and have never had an issue. RS4 pads can be a little noisy under some conditions anyway, but that’s a function of the pad composition.

And just re-bleed with new dot 4

[Jtt84911]

Mixed76,stownsend914,PeteKz,emac911.

Here’s pics of the passenger frt caliper pistons.
Think you guys are right! (really hope so) the sh#t in the back of the old pads and what I cleaned out of the pad slots…. was actually broken down anti-squel backing….and the existing dust boots are OK?

Does the everything in the pics look good to you??




Regards,
JT

[stownsen914]

At a glance, the dust boots appear to be intact.

Maybe the caked on crud was the brake squeal goop with brake dust or other debris mixed in?

[RDM]

Looks undecayed. I think you are golden.

[mnez]

of

Originally Posted by Jtt84911

Mixed76,stownsend914,PeteKz,emac911.

Here’s pics of the passenger frt caliper pistons.
Think you guys are right! (really hope so) the sh#t in the back of the old pads and what I cleaned out of the pad slots…. was actually broken down anti-squel backing….and the existing dust boots are OK?

Does the everything in the pics look good to you??




Regards,
JT

Yes it does.

For antisqueal I just use the tiniest, thinnest smear of antisieze possible and file a small bevel on the leading and trailing edges of the pads.
Works for me.

[Jtt84911]

Thanks Everyone for the responses !

Tomorrow I’ll put the new Porterfield pads back in and go for a drive.

Read a number of posts with procedures for “bedding” R4S pads….but…. Porterfield indicates typical bedding processes should NOT be followed…just drive/stop normally for first 100 miles… and pads will perfect. So that’s my game plan.

Regards,
JT

[PeteKz]

Late replying, but I agree with the others. Those look great.

[Mixed76]

Same, looks good.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

[Jtt84911]

Hi All:
So as a quick summary for someone reading this string in the future and looking for help or some confirmations:
1- Pic of old pad backs shows what happens to some anti-squeal material after years of heat.
2- Pics of caliper pistons/seals show what good (but old) seals look like.
3- Porterfield 4RS pads- per companies info….initial squealing disappeared quickly after normal
driving.The typical bedding process was NOT needed. In fact it was way less than 100 miles. Have
to also say in normal spirited street driving… I haven’t seen a “significant” difference in brake
performance in these pads and the standard (and less expensive) pads I’ve had over the years.
However…I get the sense nailing the brakes @ 90-100 mph the pads will happily perform.

Regards,
JT

[icarp]

The R4S pads will shine when you add a bit more speed to the afternoon.
Sounds like you have never gotten the new pads really hot , you should do this .
Although the pads do not need bedding they come up to performance spec after some
hot shoe driving .
Go have a fun drive and trust you new brake pads.

I LOVE PORTERFEILD R4S brake pads

Ian

[Dpmulvan]

Originally Posted by mnez

of
Yes it does.

For antisqueal I just use the tiniest, thinnest smear of antisieze possible and file a small bevel on the leading and trailing edges of the pads.
Works for me.

Same here, putting anti squeal between piston and back of pad does nothing.

[911MANN]

Ian- Question: I haven't experienced the Porterfield R4S pads yet on my '83SC, recently upsized to 3.2 and M1 Cams. Tell me- After putting those pads through their paces with some 'hot-shoe' driving, will they retain that improved performance every time they are used, even at slower speeds, or will I need to push them every time I drive in order to get that improvement? Thanks.