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Axel help?
I am about to drop my 74 2.7 (because one of the fuel line hose clamps was seeping. It is a long story), and I need to replace the CV boots.
I got all the CV bolts out (inner and outer), and got the inners separated from the transaxle flange, but I cannot get the outboard CV off the hub. The mating surface is buried in the aluminum swing arm... and "pretty sure" it has alignment pins (the inboards do) According to everything, I have the 911.332.033.08 axle (with the 4, 10mm bolts) Any suggestions? (I would rather not remove the stub axle) Thanks, Paul Sorry about spelling axle wrong in the title... Last edited by FunWithPaul; 04-27-2024 at 01:01 PM.. Reason: spelling |
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GOT ONE OFF!
I worked on it for a while yesterday, but being under a car, and pulling with all your might, when the car is only being supported by the torsion bar covers made me uncomfortable. Today I went out and tried to pry the boot flange against the swing arm. That didn't work, but I noticed a tiny bit of play when I lifted the axle to rotate the hub. So I just rocked the axle up and down to the limits, FINALLY the CV joint came off the hub. I decided to leave my original question up, incase someone else has the same issue in the future. Thanks, Paul ![]() |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Denver
Posts: 271
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The easiest way to do this is to remove the axle nut and pull the whole thing out of the flange then use a small chisel to separate them. Jim
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FUN with "FunWithPaul"
I've never seen a photo of a hairy trailing arm before.
![]() I've done the axels both ways, last time mine separated from the hub pretty easily, but it was only 20 K since the last time they were done. It's pretty easy to take the nut off with a cheater bar, getting the right torque might be challenging, I just did 250, then a bit more on my axel nuts. When install is the "reverse": don't forget the gaskets, and make some cheater screws by taking the heads off some used bolts (longer than the stock even better) and cut a groove for a screw driver. These can help hold the joint in place while you position the axel half to start some new bolts. Helps if you are doing this solo. Good set of allen wrenches (various sizes) are a must too. And raise the trailing arm (get pressure off the shock bolt) and move the shock out of the way a tad. Makes install a bit easier.
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