Is it normal some gas pedal play and click noise?
 

As I am approaching my 5 months with my 911SC
my brain is getting used to the normal sounds but still uncertain what's "normal" for a 42-year-old car or not.

I just noticed the gas pedal has some travel play that doesn't affect the speed when I'm driving, and to be clear it works well as it should...but during a "silent" moment coming home, I noticed this clicking noise when I press the pedal, and it seems to come from the box where the shift coupler is (or maybe come underneath that)

the travel it seems to be barely 1 inch... that's why I kinda never noticed before or took for granted that is part of old car problems

here is the video/audio
https://youtube.com/shorts/wpAP1sbk_TI

is it normal? or does my cable need to be adjusted, or tightened somewhere?

Could be the throttle rod bell crank bushings have worn/failed/broken. There are nylon and aged and brittle causing some wobble as it connects to the rod. Also there 3 nylon bushings also old and brittle along the tunnel that if missing it could cause the rod to slap and wobble around.
I had the throttle stuck at highway speed due to the nylon bell crank bushings broken.
Remove the pedal floor board and examine, you’ll need to remove shifter and handbrake lever to see if the throttle rod bushes are in bits and pieces. .

With my 85 Carrera there is zero play in the throttle. If I just touch the pedal, the RPMs go up. Of course there is a pedal stop, so it goes only so far down to wide open. Have someone else operate the pedal, and take off the air filter and look at the butterfly on the air intake. Whit the engine not running have them slowly press the pedal and see if the throttle is opening all the way, or has slack.

I highly suspect the throttle bellcrank bushings at the base of the throttle pedal assembly, as EC900 references. Like EC I had my throttle stick at wide open throttle due to these bushings failing. I managed to change them out mid road trip without removing any of the shifter components, but if it is any of the bushings inside the tunnel that will probably be a different story.

Inspect and replace the throttle bellcrank and rod bushings. If they are original, they have deteriorated to the point where they are brittle and falling apart. Unfortunately, this will involve a fair amount of "while you're in there," because the bushings inside the tunnel, including the shift rod bushings are also in the same condition. It will save time to do them all at once.

thanks, do you guys mean part 91142301701?

also which tunnel are you talking about? is it the same as the shifter coupler/rod?

to clarify, I have zero issues with the engine/acceleration, the engine works great, RPM go very high (although I never tried more than 5,000rpm, and I never paid too much attention to this play.

it is more of a preventative repair in case

in hindsight... I recently replaced the fluid transmission and that throttle rod/cable was in the middle of the work... I wonder if by mistake I touched that and the nut became a tad loose and I just need to tighten it – but I don't mind replacing the part considering is 42 old ;)

can you confirm is this to be done?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltbW66HA-hI&t=92s

I wonder if the short travel play is due to the loose nut (is it a nut?) and corresponds to the space I marked in the pic?

https://i.imgur.com/tun8Zz4.png

^^^ All great advice.

Pretty much zero play in my throttle linkage, any movement at all on the pedal is immediately visible on the TPS reading.

Good idea to also check the throttle stop is correctly adjusted so that the linkage doesn't get over-extended/damaged.

Regarding the "click", be careful. It could be (relatively) harmless play/wear, or the linkage/pedal could be binding on something.

It is possible for the throttle to stick wide-open because it binds against the pedal board..

Here’s a pic I posted after I had my 2 bell crank rod bushings (901.423.227.00) failed once I figured it out I also discovered the shifter bushing was equally disintegrated and remnants (circled) of the 3 throttle rod bushings (914.423.211.00) in the tunnel.

It’s not much to pull out the floorboard but tight to get new bushings in and no need to remove pedal cluster. To get at the tunnel throttle rod bushing, the shifter will have to come out and loosen the handbrake to lift it up to replace the center and rearward TR bushings. Bushings have a slit in the center and slide right on, then bend the metal retaining tab over. A shift console makes the job longer, I removed passenger seat to make install easier. Lot of extra prep work but quite easy.
BTW- I replaced my shifter bushing with the JP Novak Ultimate Shifter Bushing as well as a new ball cup.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1714490593.jpg

Part #’s may vary by year but these are the parts in question…

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1714492459.jpg

Regarding your last photo, the loose nut on the lever holds it in place, I thought this would be a stationary stud, I’m not sure about that adjustment though.

the noise clearly comes from the center of the car (if you see the video) where the shift coupler panel, maybe below that, it doesn't come from the feet at all.

I'm gonna try to remove the panel when I have time, also inspect again under the car with a friend pushing the pedal

the noise is coming from the back/center
I think the pedal cluster is ok.

strangely in my PET book I can't find that rod/cable/part marked ar #18 in your image

If you have time do you mind telling me the code of part 18? just curious whats the name

19=nut

oh ok I found it. it's part 16 (91142304300) throttle linkage on my PDF

considering the diagram and all the part, Im having hard time thinking the bushings have anything to do with this play. feels more like something happening at the linkage level or so

Believe me, those nylon bushings even only 2mm thick when missing can cause a whole lot of slop along the length of the rods they support - from the pedal all the way up to the throttle body.
Yes, the linkage is dependent on bushings being true and in place otherwise the linkage goes awry, even if out of center it’s going to cause adjustment issues. The rods are adjustable but hardly even come loose.
I’d bet most if not all the bushings are toast. I know it sounds too simple and taking out carpeting, center console , floorboard, shifter and handbrake isn’t fun stuff and time consuming all for a few $2 bushings.
If you can take out the shift coupler cover plate you could see if the TR bushing are intact or failed as they’ll be laying along driver side of tunnel. Might be able to take a video w/ your cell camera to inspect if you don’t have a borescope.

I can certainly start with this inspection

Take a look at this link, it might explain better.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1059317-throttle-stuck-have-question-pedal-cluster.html

or maybe i'm just overthinking it...

I took a video today and the linkage seems fine, the click noise appears to come from the linkage and the engine... I will try again with the engine on... may be everything is normal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOYbHtTziKM