And everything mentioned so far is when everything goes right and

... a lot can go wrong.

If you do hire someone, make sure they are local and accessible.

Good luck to you.

Yep! What John said.

While I do understand it won't be cheap but I guess asking on a forum if someone knows who can do it for a decent price so I don't have to sell both my kidneys.

I did fix an appointment with Automobile Associates in CT. I wanted some clutch work and MFI tune up.
They also work on rust repairs, so it will be easier for them to look at it when the engine is out.
I bet it will cost more but my plan is to have only frame and any visible spots. I guess everyone has their own way and own budget.
Many people here say it will cost a lot and should be addressed thoroughly. I would love to do that but I wont be taking out a bank loan to do that stuff. So I need to be cognizant of what should be done.
I do get that I have a 911 air cooled which is costly to repair and seems like people are way too obsessed about it. I bought it cus it looked cool and wanted myself to stop riding my motorcycle so I didnt kill myself speeding.
I will either sell this in few years on keep driving it. It is an asset for anyone who owns it and what it costs and taking suggestions regardless helps.

I might sell it to someone who is not a freak about all original, no rust, blah blah..someone who can enjoy it for a decent price. Air cooled community needs to relax their tits and stop being a weirdo community.

I do appreciate all the advice, some helpful & some opinions.

Agree. I will def see "when to hold 'em and know when to fold 'em"

Thanks.

Not being obsessive about it is a good approach.

The catch with rust in these cars is that they are unibodies, so they don't have a "frame" that can be fixed separate from body panels. And when you can see it on the outside, there's almost always more on the inside, and then you have to confront the question of how far to go.

But, I usually advise to keep the car as a "driving project" rather than a non-running "garage project" in order to keep your motivation going.

Post pictures of the rusty areas and other parts of your car so we can see what you're dealing with.

Yes I will. Just need to find a decent time when its not sweltering hot in the garage. Some spots are easily visible like smugglers box, one on front floor and some on back. But major one which I think should be easy to fix is rear seat molding.

I am in Buffalo and am available to have a look, I have done rust repairs for many years, but not so young these days. Probably not interested in the work, but will offer opinions at minimum. PM for details

Very nice of 930Cabman offering to have a look. Just trying to prepare you. I have found out the hard way. The car is 54 years old and galvanized steel was not used. You can certainly skip some areas and have a fun car to drive. As mentioned there is no frame, just layers of spot welded sheet metal. The front area is important as it holds the front suspension, and the dual lead acid batteries usually mean bad rust.
Have you looked at the thread from Fishcop I posted earlier? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-detailing-forum/545166-restoration-my-69-911-a.html

Crusty
 

Galvanized sheet metal at Home Depot and a can of pop rivets ! How expensive can it be?

Just did, appreciate your help!

I think the same. I sometimes feel like taking it to a guy who is very well experienced in rust repair and ask him to do the work.
All the body panels cost around $3 to $4K. The welder has to do is cut it and do a very fine welding and finishing.

Can't believe people spend more than 15K. Welding is welding, nothing unusual. Only difference is one guy works on all cars and other only works on Porsche, hence so much money.

Interesting restoration Fishcop had. He def had all the tools and skills to do it. I lack both.
The battery are or frunk seems to be rust free. The only rust I see there is in smugglers box.

And at the other end, there are many here who are just itching to tear into, personalize, "backdate" their cars.

Welding lessons ?

Interesting that you have a '70 and a '71. Usually the cost of keeping one Classic car on the road is expensive enough.
If you could post pictures of the car it could help. There is a chance your rust is not horrible, but my mothers side of the family is in upstate NY. I always joke with my cousins that for every inch of snow I get, they have a foot. Unless the car was garaged during winters it could have deep issues. My brother went to college in Buffalo, and I made that drive many times. One winter they shut the Thruway due to snow and my friends and I had quite a time on other roads getting up there.
The cost is not just slapping in new sheet metal. To repair the seat area I would think the fuel, emissions hoses, fuel and brake lines would probably need to be removed. The seats must be removed, rusted section cut out, patch panel cut to fit and welded. Welded area then has to be hit with grinder, primer, painted and undercoated. Interior will need to be re-installed. Many sections are spot welded together. To repair them requires drilling out all the individual welds before tacking in the new sections.
The smugglers box could be simpler if the gas lines, suspension mounts and steering do not have to be touched.
If the suspension is OK and exterior doesn't need painting then the cost will not be horrible. I knew my car had a bit of rust, but once I started stripping off the paint and found what was (or should I say wasn't) under it the project grew. Fortunately not as bad as Fishcops.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720913151.JPG

It is nice having good solid metal again, but it took me a bit of time. One day I would like to have the cars exterior completely painted, but that is a couple years off yet.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720913696.JPG

I'm in this process of frunk rust removal. On the stamping, there's this stubborn last bit of chunky stuff. Should I just leave well enough alone since the number is pretty evident now? (Definitely wasn't before) Or is there something that will completely take all of it down to the metal . I've used stripper so far followed with lacquer thinner. I've read that acidic stuff is not good and I wonder about using oily products because of paint not sticking later on. Any helpful hints?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1724692222.jpg

A complete restoration, which it can easily get to even if you think its just a little rust, can run up to 80-100k, no problem.
Doing things the right way, not cheating and taking shortcuts that will show up i 5 years, that takes time and is expensive.

I need to fix the rockers ans some bits in front and behind (running driving car that looks ok). I have 4k in just replacement panels, not even the good stuff.