Electric Seat Switch replacement.

[jhubs]

I replaced the seat switch on my 1987 911 just after I sold it (so the new owner would never have a problem) and I always take photos so I know how things go back together. My mistake was that I should have purchased a NEW switch from our host, but found a less expensive used one and now it needs to be replaced. This is a PITA job, so don't do it more than once! Get a new switch and save yourself the extra work as the used switches are old, dirty and are not going to last.

Here's the process:

[jhubs]

Jerry

[vreference]

I had one functional motor out of four when I bought my car. The switches are fairly easy to disassemble. I epoxied a brace onto a broken part in one and cleaned the contacts of the remaining switches. I attempted to get pictures but my camera did not cooperate for close-ups of the parts. The rocking contact pieces can be removed for cleaning (most common failure) by bending one of the tabs they ride in out of the way to release it. This process can be done on the car but it’s not very time consuming to melt the solder at the back of the switch and solder them back on when your are done.

Considering a set of four will run you, what? close to $320 It may be worth considering the repair. All told I spent two to three hours on the project but by the end I could go through a switch and have it back on the car in 20 minutes.

[Buckterrier]

very nice write-up and pictures.

[mthomas58]

Great pictorial write-up! I just replaced both of my seat switches last weekend. I was considering trying the disassembly/ contact cleaning fix but it looked like a huge PITA. While contemplating repair or replacing two non-working 21 year old switches, I ran across a post by John Walker stating that he has never had much luck with repairing these switches and now always just replaces them. That's all I needed. When John talks, I listen.

The replacement is enough of a job on its own. Really glad I did not go down the repair path. I try to be thrifty where possible, but some things just need to be replaced with a new part.

[dshepp806]

nice writeup..

...replacement only...the way to go.

You gotta' like the brevity, "to the point" answers from JW..I like this style....and yes: he's like EF Hutton speaking (remember the commercial?)

...better pay attention to this guy, 4sure.

Again,..great writeup...THANKS!

Best,

[jhubs]

Tony,
Did you get your sport muffler, new windshield and new dash put on your 87? My bumper is painted and it looks fantastic! The paint is curing this weekend and I'll pick it up on Mon. I replaced the oil cooler and AC resistors yesterday...a PITA! And, I'll clean the headlamps inside and out today.
Oh, a product that I recommend for ALL plastic, vinyl and rubber surfaces inside and out for your P-Car is "AeroSpace Protectant 303", SPF 40. I got it on FleaBay and it is FANTASTIC stuff! You can even clean and protect your windshield on your F18!

Jerry

[jhubs]

Gentle bump...

[Maxhouse97]

Jerry,

Sorry been busy at work. I just emailed you. I did have the dash replaced and it looks great but the dying could have come out better. The color match (or more specifically the sheen) is not exactly the same. However, I did keep the old dash which I intend to repair to reinstall some day when I turn it back into a concurs level stock car. The new windshield makes a world of a difference, but I am already getting pitting on the new one. I think those windshields are just prone to such things - soft glass??

Can you send me a pic of the new bumper? I would love to see it. My duck tail should be on its way up here now - I can't wait to put it on my car!

[jackdog]

Interesting thread which I will use once I can figure how to remove the driver seat.

My car is an 89 3.2 Carrera with eight way power on driver seat only (no heated seat option---just the two switches as shown in the pictures.)

I just bought the car and noted that I cannot get the driver seat to move forward or backward. Nothing at all happens when I move the switch forward; I do get a noise when I move the switch to the back, but the seat does not move.

I would probably be able to get the front bolts out , but no way could I get the back ones out.

I tried the allen tool, and broke a couple of the plastic teeth from the gear the allen tool turns, and noted that a PO must have tried the same thing as that gear has many teeth missing. The other gear has no missing teeth from what I can tell. Still, I am unable to get the seat to move fore and aft.


Any ideas?

Thanks,

Dean

[jhubs]

Dean,
Have you done a search? I did not have a problem with moving the seat up and back and would not know how to override or move the seat manually. Sorry I can't be more help.

If you don't find any information with a search, start a seperate Thread and ask the same questions.

Good Luck,
Jerry

[jrusher]

My 89 cab has 8-way power seats - all of the adjustments work except the rear height adjustment. Is this most likely the switch, or the motor? Any troubleshooting procedures? The Bentley manual has no detail on this.

Thanks

[jhubs]

Originally Posted by jrusher

My 89 cab has 8-way power seats - all of the adjustments work except the rear height adjustment. Is this most likely the switch, or the motor? Any troubleshooting procedures? The Bentley manual has no detail on this.

Thanks

My best guess is that it the switch. If all the other positions work, it's the switch. As recommended, do this repair ONLY ONCE as it's a PITA...buy a new switch from our host. Good Luck!

Jerry

[remroc]

One of my seats was all the way back and would't move forward. Of course the manual deal with the allen wrench was hopeless (what a lousy job by Porsche). In the middle of the night I thought of reversing the leads and sure enough that allowed me to move the seat forward using the back button. I could then take the seat out and replaced the switch with a new one. By the way both bolts were missing on one side of the rear. That is a safety issue that should be checked when you buy a 911.

[wastintime]

I never thought seat switches were that bad of a job, of course I guess after the first 50 or so.... what really sucked was replacing motors. When you had to run those emergency bolts for what seemed like forever to move the seat to where you could get it out.

[jrusher]

Jerry,

Thanks for the advice - I'll start removing the seat.

Jim

[sp_cs]

an alternative way is to pull the switch at the seat base, snip the wires then solder in the new switch - think its only 4 wires, IIRC

worked for me.....

[Lunde4]

I have two switches on my seat, my forward up and down worked, rear up and down worked intermittently, then stopped working all together. I cleaned the contacts in the switch, no luck. I purchased a new switch from our host and replaced as instructed above (great write up BTW). STILL DOES NOT WORK! So I switched the green and purple wires ONLY from the two motors. Then, the rear works and the front does not! So.... the motors are fine! (My "good" switch is operating my rear up and down motor with the purple and green wires changed around from the switches) I can't imagine that my brand new switch is bad as well.

I opened the female unit from the car end of the "plug" that the four prong plug connects to and all appears normal. (only three wires back to the car but seems to be as it should be)

Any ideas????

[tony9704]

Jack dog,
Just removed mine yesterday. Sprayed bolts with PB Blaster and let it sit for and hour. Then get yourself a 6mm allen head socket. (Do not use a cheapo all Go at it with some pressure and she'll come. Did for me anyway. I almost broke an allen wrench before I took a knee and went to my local tool shop.

[Lunde4]

Well I got the new switch to work by swapping the connecting wires. (I wonder if my old switch was not bad after all). So It has to be the wire in the female side of the connection. It all leads to the same place in the fuse box, right? The connection does not appear to be corroded or anything. How can I trouble shoot the one wire?