Fender Removal Problems

[Poor-sche Lover]

I've officially started dismantling my car to get it ready for its replacement parts. It's an '88 Carrera cab. I'm trying to take the fender off, but I'm having some difficulty. I have taken all six 10-mm screws off from inside the wheel well. I have taken ten 10-mm screws out from inside the trunk. However, I still can't get the fender to move. I noticed an 11-mm screw in the trunk up behind the hood shock. Does this need to come off as well?

I'm also sure that the undercoating/sealing tape has something to do with it, as well as the fact that the fender itself is damaged. I've heard that petroleum based products can help dissolve the undercoating. Can I use something like penetrating oil or something, and just spray it into the joint? Any other advice?

Thanks!

[Flat6pac]

Did you get the 2 inside by the door and window cowl, 5mm allen needed.
The one by the shock has to come off, There is a tape holding it too between the fender and the body that cooked in the baking prcess and is tough to get through.
Bruce

[vulcan300]

When I took my fenders off I had to slice through the undercoating in the wheel well to expose the seam of the fender whe it meets the panel in front of the door. Once you ca,n see the seam a litt leverage with a screwdriver got the fender moving.

You definitely have to get the screw back behind the hood shock on each side as the hex screws that Flat6pac mentions. You also need to remove the screw that attaches the window washer bottle the the back of the headlight bucket. And you'll need to deal with the screws inside the gas fill as well.

Good luck

[Poor-sche Lover]

I eventually got it figured out. The Bentley seems severely inadequate in telling you everything that needs to be removed. It was definitely a chore. It took two guys, a lot of muscle, and some curse words - but it's off. I feel sorry for people that have to do that without ruining the fender. I'm VERY glad mine was already trash!

[javadog]

Originally Posted by Poor-sche Lover

. The Bentley seems severely inadequate

That's why I tell people not to buy the things.

JR

[Lukesportsman]

IF your going to keep the car or do major work, invest in the real manuals. Incredibly well done compared to even my 7 volume Ford Mustang manuals.

[rattlsnak]

Originally Posted by Poor-sche Lover

I feel sorry for people that have to do that without ruining the fender. I'm VERY glad mine was already trash!

? Once you've done a few, it's a 20 minute job at most..

[techweenie]

Originally Posted by rattlsnak

? Once you've done a few, it's a 20 minute job at most..

Well, depending on how much sealer the guy sprayed on at the Factory. I had a bolt that had to be excavated from under a 1/4" of hardened goo at the very top of the fender flange. That one was also behind the hard lines to/from the front cooler. That bolt alone was a 20 minute job.

[Griffinroydonal]

I know it sounds strange but works, Place a deep well socket on the extension and heat with a propane torch. This melts right through the undercoating with ease. My work has been with 928's in a strip shop we will not name but I had the fenders down to under 15 min with this trick and air tools.

[techweenie]

Excellent tip.

[WMichelsen]

I'm removing fenders for repaint. I got the driver-LHS off, although I think it was replaced once decades ago. But, the passenger-RHS is being difficult.

I think I've removed all screws (inside wheel well and trunk) and bolts (2 allens by cowl, oil cooler top, and headlight bucket). I've run a putty knife along the top seam, and it's free.

But, it feels like there is putty along the vertical mating surface (maybe?). Or is it just the stone-guard? Anyway, it's not budging. I'm sure this is fender is all Porsche original assembly. I don't see how to get a putty knife in that seam. Any advice for this step?

[techweenie]

Some fenders have a spot weld at the extreme upper rear point of the fender. But even with that, you should be able to separate the lower portion. I've never had an issue pulling the rear flange straight out from the body. Is it possible someone previously added a sheet metal screw at the very bottom of the dogleg?

[WMichelsen]

I don't see any additional screws or spot welds (although maybe I'm missing it).
I can't get any movement along any part of that flange.
If it is thick stone guard or putty, is there any risk to using a heat gun? Would that soften it up?

[techweenie]

No downside to heat gun.

[ChrisHamilton]

There is seam sealer/ body schutz on the backside flange where the 5 screws/bolts are on the underside. Heat that area with a heat gun and it will loosen up. Or get a flexible thin blade putty knife in there and break the seal.

[WMichelsen]

Both techweenie and Chris were on. Indeed super thick caulking along the flange, and a small braze/weld at the rocker. Getting a putty knife in that seam was brutal, even after scraping away the shutz. Then, I used a very thin dremel cut-off disk to cut through the spot weld.

I'm fortunate that I started with the driver-LHS and it came off semi-easily (because of prior repair). If not for that, I'd have been even more confused and lost. At least I knew it should come off, and how it attaches (assuming similar between LHS and RHS)

For those who stumble on this thread, pics attached:

[WMichelsen]

BTW, things they don't tell you...
In order to remove the fender, you need to pull the headlight wires out of the bucket.
But... if you have H5 headlights, the connector is too big to fit through the hole. You need to remove the connector.
It took me some time to figure out how that's done, without breaking/cutting anything.
Maybe it's obvious, but not to me. I hope others can benefit below:

[pmax]

Thanks for those excellent posts, WMichelsen.