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Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 4
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Replacing Front Hood release Cable
My front hood release cable on my 85 Carrera Coupe has gotten progressively harder to pull. Especially on cold days for some reason. Planning on replacing the cable.
It seems like I would simply undo the two screws at the latch to pull the old cable out ? I live in a pretty remote location so slowly learning to do this kind of thing myself. Any help photos / you-tube resources appreciated. Having tough time finding any explanations perhaps because it is so obvious ?? ![]() |
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Grapevine, TX
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could always try something like this to lube the cable. I have no idea what a replacement cable costs,, so it may not be cost effective but thought I'd throw this out incase it is viable.
https://www.amazon.com/Lubricator-Lubricant-Motorcycle-Scooter-08-0182/dp/B0BBKGCD2H/ref=asc_df_B0BBKGCD2H/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=698339097300&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14855498328647706542&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026441&hvtargid=pla-2311100886911&psc=1&mcid=a4ce0521475533c18eb20eb5e609ea38 |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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Thanks for the suggestion J55
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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You need to remove the cable from the interior pull, I believe there’s a drift pin you need to remove first. I’d just hit the latch with some triflow and adjust first before replacing.
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It’s a very simple cable. The knob screws onto the cable in the cabin. Nothing to do there until you unfasten the latch end. The cable is secured at the latch end with a keeper/clamp screw that jambs into the cable that is also attached to the latch lever, and then the cable wraps around and is fastened to itself. Remove the big screw completely and the wedge nut behind it. Take note of the direction the wedge hits the cable. The wedge nut line hits across the cable going back to the cabin and the tail. This is a safety to the keeper on the latch. Remove the two screws and the wedge nut. The cable is free to be pulled out of the cabin end.
These are pretty cheap, I replaced all three of mine last month. The front and back cables are the same (901 511 073 21) $18, the fuel door is just shorter. The fuel door cable is just shorter that the other two, and more expensive (???). (901 504 317 21) $28. I squirted brake cleaner from the knob end to clean it out, and then lightly lubed the cable as I feeded it in. Don’t be afraid of breaking the cable by bending it, it’s pretty tough material. The fuel door cable I obviously needed to clip, the other two are close. In hindsight, I should have just pulled them and cleaned, relubed, and been done with it. Mine really didn’t have much dirt in them. Just needed a bit of lube. 1983 911SC. |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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This is perfect. Thanks everyone. Especially porschedude996. This is exactly the info I needed.
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Also, careful of the solvent used. Maybe cover the opposite end with a rag to collect the solvent. I back sprayed my engine lid cable and the solvent ran down the door jamb and took some letters off my Federal Compliance Sticker.
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One thing I didn’t mention was the lube. I used a white lithium grease. Lubriplate is the brand I have. White brake grease is the same thing.
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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Noted on the other pointers Porschedude996. Cheers
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